0.28 Discussion Thread

hold V key

 

Thanks for the answer.

Yeah I know, I'm not that stupid.
If I hold "V" the engines starts and then immediately shuts off.
The same problem that about 10 others have already written here.

It happens for modded AND vanilla engines.

 

why are you using windows 7?

 

I'm grinding gears constantly when trying to shift quickly, shifting just as I would have in the previous update. I remember this change being attempted a while back, and it was reverted. Why was this brought back, and seemingly not even mentioned in the patch notes, it kills my ability to play on a gamepad? I've read the logic behind the decision when it was originally implemented, and I understand what the feature is trying to convey, but sometimes compromises for gameplay purposes should be made. Simply telling me to use clutch assist if I'm playing on a gamepad is not a fulfilling solution. I liked grinding my gears when I clutched too late, I liked being able to stall, and I really liked able to do all that while rowing through gears aggressively.

 

am i the only one who thinks 278 horsepower and 390 foot punds of torque is a little to much for the sport moonhawk? i mean thats quite a lot of power for a car of that era and is actually making more power than the late 60's erly 70's 423 barstow. My father had a 79 ford f250 with the 460 and that thing made like 240 horsepower supposedly but it felt like less. 278 horsepower and 390 foot pounds of torque out of a 448 CUI motor is crazy for the mid to late 70s. This thing puts the 77 firebird 6.6 which was one of if not the fastest muscle car of that era to shame. It gets worse with the special which is a production car in the early to mid 70s pushing over 360 HORSEPOWER. That is just ridiculous.

my opinion the 448 special should be pushing around maybe 300-309 horsepower max or so and the 448 around 245-250 maybe and a little less torque. The 309 should be closer to 140-148 horsepower. The 2 barrel 378 is still perfect and accurate for how much power a motor of that size should be making in my opinion. its just the 2 new engines that arent.

 

Maybe don't use old 2015 mods from russian sites

 

The engine on any car now will start instantly after the starter engages, barely letting the ignition sound even play

 

Shifting in BeamNG with H-shifter has always been like this, it's just the 0.28 update making the manual shifting with sequential shifter slower when using keyboard/joystick. If you use paddle shifter on your wheel with foot clutch without assistance, you might grind gears as much as using keyboard. The reason is that there's a hidden "assistance" that enables you using a sequential shifter (like the X and Z key) to shift an H-pattern stick shift, this very hidden "assistance" can only be bypassed when using an H-shifter controller which commonly known as wheel

To make things clear, first we need to know how an H-shifter works in game. In BeamNG(and possible many other driving games), there are 9 bindings for H-shifter, R, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8, when the respected binding is pressed, the vehicle shifts into said gear, and you have to hold said binding to make the vehicle in gear. When said binding is released, the vehicle goes in neutral. If you press and hold a gear binding when the clutch channel is 100%, the vehicle won't grind gear.

In the vehicle jbeam there are two factors, "transmissionShiftDelay" and "clutchOutRate"
The "transmissionShiftDelay" is for shifting a manual gearbox(not a sequential), using a keyboard or paddle shifter, this applies regardless whether the clutch assistance is on or off(the hidden "assistance" written above)
The "clutchOutRate" is the speed of releasing the clutch with clutch assistance on, in addition, the clutch pedal won't release until the the shift delay is finished.
Thus, if you turn the clutch assistance off, hit the clutch faster than the "transmissionShiftDelay", the gear will grind. For example, the semi(T-Series)'s "transmissionGearChangeDelay" is 0.25. You need to make sure the clutch is held in 0.25 seconds after pressing the up/downshift key. It doesn't matter whether you press the clutch when you initially press the up/downshift key.

I tested with my keyboard driving the semi.
1. hitting shift(the clutch key)
2. hitting X(the upshift key)
3. releasing X(the upshift key)
4. releasing shift(the clutch key)
If you do 4 earlier than 0.25 seconds after doing 2, the gear will grind even if you do 3 before doing 4.
1. hitting X(the upshift key)
2. hitting shift(the clutch key)
3. releasing X(the upshift key)
4. releasing shift(the clutch key)
as lone as you don't do 4 before 0.25 second after doing 1, the gear won't grind.
Thus doing the latter rather than the former actually yields faster overall shifting time.
You can even do this as long as you are not shifting from N to 1:
1. hitting X
2. releasing X
3. hitting shift(before 0.25s after 1 when driving the semi)
4. releasing shift(after 0.25s after 1)

Only the H-shifter can ignore the "transmissionGearChangeDelay"

 

why the steering wheel on miramar is upside down?

 

Hey I realised the UI Apps can’t be changed into anymore modes and is stuck on freeroam. Help?

 

DFA pack.

 

Issue Report:

Ibishu Wigeon Canopy Opening is a bit unreliable. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt. It always works when using the radial menu command but manual triggering it on the roof at times does not work.

Or maybe I am doing something wrong?

Tested and recorded in safe mode of course.

• I am aware that you need to open both regular doors first to open the canopy. I was just trying to find out if triggering it without doors open and then again with doors open would reset the issue
• I am aware that the engine hood cover can only open if the canopy is closed and opening the canopy will close it.

Thank you for looking into it/explaining to me what I am doing wrong.

 

The Frame and suspension on the d-series, the roamer, the h-series and the interior on the roamer and h-series is completely black.
This only happens on lowest lightning quality.
I tried save mode, cache clean and to reinstall the game but it’s still black.

 

There are missing coil packs on the Bruckell Bastion V6 and V8 engines. Only the 1st cylinder coil pack on the left bank is present, coils packs 2 to 6 respectively 8 are missing. Tested in safe mode with v0.28.

 

I have a little suggestion : Adding Bolide V8 and Bastion V8 distant chase tone sounds would be awesome!

 

Are you playing in Arcade or Realistic transmission mode? If it's in Realistic it could be the clutch or some mod causing it, test it in Safe Mode
--- Post updated ---

The same problem I have, apparently it's from the game

 

next time put everything in the patch notes.
also I don't have any old mods.
i've checked it in jbeam editor.

 

The ETK K-Series gets a unique sport, carbon fiber sport, and race spoiler. The 800 series sedan unibody gets a unique roof panel option that includes a plain roof and a carbon fiber roof with the options to remove the headliner (and a sunroof but k-series doesn't need one lol). If both of these options were interchangeable the spoilers for the 800 and custom roof for the K-Series it would be the chefs kiss <3
*Serious question about the AWD systems, under load in a slide or in a lower gear the cars seem to gallop like a horse as if the transmission can't keep up with the power. Happens with upgraded AWD car's I'm not shure what's going on my assumption it has to do with RPM limit cut time, if it's possible for us to get a stage 3 engine management tune (based on the highest previous stage I would say) just where we can choose the RPM limit and the RPM cut time on the v8 and I6 it would be amazing.

 

Found an interesting bug with the ETK K series and ETK 800 where the interior sound gets EXTRA muffled whenever you spawn traffic, only way to remove this effect is by resetting the car (CTRL + R). This bug doesn't seem to be happening on any other cars from my testing. Uploaded a video of the bug.
Edit: It's a bug on every car, it's just notable on race/track configs because of the lack of mufflers