Looks like everybody’s favorite car, the Fierri Enzo is back up for auction https://carsandbids.com/auctions/3qnypebN/1986-pontiac-fiero
Well , nowadays, customizing a Twingo is like customizing a Rolls-Royce Culiman or a pre-war Vehicle : unfortunate. Plus , it may be hard to find a shit condition twingo , especially since you Can get a working one for 300€
most twingos for low money drive, but being a 90s french car, there's one big issue: rust. although i feel like the twingo offering has really thinned out since i've started looking at them, under 1000€ you just get stuff that needs more or less fixing, then there's nothing from 1000 to 1500 (i kid you not, not even mk2s), and at 1500 good twingos with inspection start.
I understand that connected cars are a threat to security(security isn't guaranteed with privacy, but without privacy you can't have security) and should be banned. This article is fear mongering. AFAIK Mozilla is not clean either, it's Firefox browser has telemetry(read: backdoor) and a certain update removes the disable update option, either update automatically or have update notification popup every hour. They instill fear and manipulate you into "supporting their cause", the "Don’t worry!! There is something you can do!" is all bark and no bite, just Mozilla propaganda. If they really cares about your privacy instead of their agenda, they should post instructions(or link to relevant articles) of physically removing connected anti-features of those vehicles listed above.
This is probably the wrong place to ask, but does anyone know if I need to remove the entire headlight assembly on my Eagle to replace the side marker bulbs?
I have some unfortunate news. My Eagle’s carburetor (it is indeed a Carter BBD, @combatwombat96) needs a full rebuild, and the choke is also busted. There are also a few vacuum leaks. I found a little more rust, but it’s not bad. Finally, my right rear leaf spring needs to be replaced. I’ll post photos later, maybe. --- Post updated 41 minutes later --- (Sorry about the shit photos) Some cool stuff. The right rear leaf spring is bent, making the car tilt, so that needs fixing. I can’t really illustrate it in a photo, though. I’ve driven over 200 miles on these tires, which is a mistake. I need new ones ASAP. Here’s some rust. This is an emissions control unit, right? I’m pretty sure that’s why it doesn’t have a belt on it. Here’s the complete engine bay. Does anyone know of I have to remove the entire headlight assembly to replace my side marker bulbs? The shop manual wasn’t much help. This is the current state of the car. It’s sitting at my parents house, most likely until spring. --- Post updated 122 minutes later--- What do y'all think about the odometer's accuracy? It's only five digits long, so I'm going to guess it has 279,000 or even 379,000 miles on it, because the first owner drove it to Florida and back every winter, hence the 'Seagrove' sticker.
Who dare mention me after my absence of internet! You can probably check that by looking at how much slop is in the throttle shaft, if its about about a mil then it definitely is 300+ thou miles. Because no one ever thinks to rebush the shaft at rebuild time (slightly ironic considering thats the biggest cause of issues with them). Now its great that it is a bbd because i'll be able to help you sort it for the most part, and i've got some really cool factory service manual for them (mainly detailing the 1976 models but with lots on the earlier stuff) that i can send to you. The only thing you cant do yourself is rebush the throttle shaft (unless im mistaken and your very good at lathe work) but a quality machine shop will have that done lickety split. The castings themselves will be warped at the mating surfaces but a belt sander or even hand held speed file will work to get them true again. Could you get us more pictures? Wow i see that bentness in rear, that'll be crabbing like crazy ! And nah them tires are fine, once they get down to the cords is it time to think about replacing them --- Post updated --- Ah it was rusted pretty good, and it wiggly jiggled every time you got above 45 because it has no centre mount/post, and maybe i broke a stud for one of the clamping plates --- Post updated --- Hmmm im getting tired of having just car and car part pictures on my phone, it would be nice for once to have a photo of an actual person on there for once, maybe even a friend, maybe a smiling friend... maybe even a bunch of smiling friends doing something fun. Ah a man can dream. This is a normal car crazed person problem right?
-I'll have to check the throttle shaft, then. I'll get some more phoos sometime. I may post a video on YouTube, too. -Old manuals for things are so much better than the modern crap. My Eagle's shop manual has instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble the entire car. -Yeah, it does crab-walk quite a bit. The right side of the wheel is at 25 degrees rotation while driving straight. -I need an excuse to put some whitewalls on it! -Ah, okay. That's too bad, I love old car visors. I'm trying to find some chrome side window visors for the Eagle. -Yes, my camera roll is quite similar.
I would definitively fix that crabbing before putting any new tires on it, and visors dont really do anything but add wind resistance and noise, especially at high speeds. you can mitigate the issue of poorly made work shop manuals by just buying reprints of old ones, if they are easily available in america, super easy to get here for our home grown cars
You can use your shop manual to rebuild that carburetor. Get a kit with the gaskets and pieces. Sometimes you just need to clean the gunk out of the needle valve and jets. Make sure the float floats. That thing with no belt on it is an air pump, for emissions. I also see a big chunky AC compressor. You should be able to replace the bulb in that marker light by unscrewing the 2 screws holding it to the fender. It will then come out a few inches where you can GENTLY disconnect the bulb or wiring. The bulb probably twists and then pops out of the marker lens.
I know, I'm looking for a kit. That's what I thought it was. Yes, it has A/C. Unscrewing them did absolutely nothing on either side, so I'm wondering if they're glued on, or if I need to remove the entire headlight assembly to get to them. I'm not stupid, you know.
I'm trying to help you. If its glued, try to warm it up with a heat gun and see if the glue will release. Don't get it too hot. Maybe use a a plastic tool to very gently pry it. Is that a factory service manual? It shows nothing besides a screw holding the marker light into the body. What holds the headlamp body in? If you mess with that you want to be careful not to mess up the aim.
