Sorry for the pic dump, cant be assed to write for all of these, im sure you can figure them out. I will say that fuel guage still does not work, and American and Australian ball joints do NOT fucking interchange, discovered that after putting the wheel on after my second attempt to initially remove the old ones without a ball joint "popper"... Finishing off the set is the latest pic of the car itself
Rolling the odometer over was quite a special, and exciting moment. I doubt its something i'll be treated too again for a long time if ever... Also i should say i repaired the bouncy speedo by removing and unseizing the spinning magnet+housing from my spare dash cluster and putting the old facia onto it, works flawlessly, not a tremor or quiver at all above 25, quite a novelty after nearly a year and half of driving it with a bipolar needle. That trans mount is proof of Scam (hemi) Performance selling cheap junk at ridiculous prices, the stud with the nut half way on just uselessly spins around because its not secured to anything; So i just cant tighten it, not helped by the fact i couldn't find what bloody thread pitch it was, nothing standard for certain, couldn't have hurt to have just supplied some matching nuts for the studs on the mount... Just as i was backing down the driveway after finishing that herculean job (thanks to the nuts)... Brake pedal sunk to the floor.... Another master cylinder later and this one is still holding in, I finally realized why they were all failing, it because it was the way i adjusted the brakes; I would always adjust the star wheel in the drum then go and stomp -hard- on the brake pedal, so to recentre the shoes, which caused the seals in the M/C to fail, seems this isn't an issue i've heard of on american M/C with that style of adjusting. So i've simply stopped adjusting the brakes (hooray, the self-adjusters do work) and if had to i wouldn't be putting all my 55 kgs onto that pedal anymore. Thank christ thats the end of the brake woes... However not alls good, seems the engine has developed what seems like a rod or big end knock if you let it start in the morning without cranking it over 3-4 revolutions, so i guess to alleviate that i just get in and twist the key without a floorboard shot of 91 octane. Still not nice though after ten grand, 5 months (for just and only the short block!) and about 25,000 miles. The diff has also been very angry with it not howling but knocking, deep, hard, knocking. So bad you can feel it through your feet, these Borg Jun-I mean Warner diffs had a really bad rep right from the start of introduction midway through the VC model, with the exact same problem, it just wont be cured by over thick oil or careful driving or believing in Voodoo (I haven't tried that last one though ) because the Australian factories and workers had no idea how many shims to use for the pinion depth and angle. No one knew it seemed what at all they were supposed to be. Knowledge curtesy of my ex Chryco engineer friend John. This has unfortunately come about after only a few months of getting the diff rebuilt with a different gear set, now i dont hold it against the rebuilder because its not common knowledge of what shim goes where in these thing, but i do suspect whats happened is that the guy used the same shims from the 3.23 gear set with the 2.9(something) and those two arent going to place nicely considering the differences in wear patterns and whatnot. Hopefully that should be sorted next week At least the new springs in the chair have worn in and isn't giving me terrible back pains anymore, gotta look on the bright side
This is what i tried to do in order to bypass the float pivot pin as a ground (shown is the spare sender unit - practice purposes), because the the pin and the hole it resides in are both very worn out, its no longer making solid contact with each other hence the extremely sporadic grounding. Rendering the gauge useless. Unfortunately the my efforts didn't amount to much, while ive regained the ability to read the gauge up to the three quarter mark, its only when the car has been sitting for a while. The moment it moves the needle just explodes in a frenzy of movement, Im just trying to do my best in order to fix this cursed fucking thing, beats paying $250 AND exchanging one of my units for a remanufactured unit, mind you however the remanned unit will be of high quality work. dammit i dont want to pay that for a piece of tube and some plastic !
I finally have gotten the TÜV report wich makes my tuning parts legal it took way longer than i wanted it to since i started it in july. Im also interrested to see how expensive the whole thing will be since i changed alot of stuff
What's a TÜV report? ot Added center console lid to my Pontiac Vibe. Took it from the junkyard, it's a little rough and when open it rattles when you shake it but its much better than having no center console lid
Good Little Boy slip, basically. Most/all of Europe is even more obnoxious about working on your car than the modern US is
My Eagle’s radiator overheated on my first drive in about two weeks. “Ah, fucking hell.” I don’t think it’s related to the coolant overheating, but I also got a new battery. (The old battery died, which is the reason I hadn’t driven it recently)
Have you flushed the engine, and looked at the t/stat / waterpump situation? Now last week i replaced the lower ball joints and tie rod ends, which has made a huge difference to the cars stability (unfortunately not so much the loose steering- pitman and idler arm next) so now im a little safer driving a round these bumpy assed roads. Because this was done after work at a Bunnings car park at night and i was tired, i didn't take many photos - just one The scary bit about the job was discovering all the bits were completely different, all replaced at different times with different parts one at a time!, I believe that this ball joint is the one the car came with from the factory.... 57 years ago, same with one of the tie rods.... Ill take some more pics in a moment whilst theres still sunlight out --- Post updated --- Notice how the top b/joint has a castellated nut and split pin hole, and the the lower one doesnt, jeeeeez talk about dodgy work. Also look at how all the the tie rod ends are in all different conditions - ones even short than the others !
Refinished the headlights on my Q45. New bulbs. Whats next, oil change? Nothing too interesting. I've put 15,000 miles on this car, its super solid. Sitting at 212k miles currently. Pic from Wyoming a few months ago on my 3,000 mile road trip. Coming home I drove 1300 miles alone without resting, eating, or even stopping the engine a single time. I finally had to take a nap east of St. Louis, still 250 miles from home. I only stopped to fuel it up every 300 miles or so. It has an 18 gallon gas tank, averages about 21mpg on the highway.
Its a private company that can say if your car is road legal but they usually let every unsafe car drive on the road but if you tune your car you have to pay a shitload of money to them only for them to say its legal and then the police can stop your car and let them check over again and if they suddenly decide its not ok you have to pay a hefty fine and undo the mods. Or you can not bother and pay the same fine. Also if the police stop you they have the right to take away your car and pose with it on facebook like big game hunters do
Yeah, sounds about right for post-purchase automobile regulation. Not even about safety, just about making life miserable for anyone who dares to think beyond stock. I assume that if you say anything negative about this system, it just gets you dismissed out of hand as an Evil Person Who Wants Children to Die?
I did some arts and craft, also "refixed" the shift linkage Sharp! Also why hasn't any posted on this thread recently? Has everyone just stopped working on their old heaps?
Most of us live in the northern hemisphere Where I live, the winter is such a momentum killer that it takes me until August to get going again
Ah a fair point, i would certainly hate to tried weld up some sills or something outside in the snow at minus anything, unpleasantness at its utmost
We haven't turned on the garage heat, so I'm waiting for that to get to work again. If anyone finds any Carter BBD rebuild kits at a reasonable price, tell me.
https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/ Apparently this is a good source of carb stuff --- Post updated --- Hmm it doesn't seem to be the best site now that im looking at it
This one might work... https://www.carburetor-parts.com/ca...lEKUblLmnrG8v6hUibhVLVXkIzCpBCBlQTQQ8OQjUQ-O4
I cant see why not, hey if you dont use those clips reckon you could send this way, i keep losing mine :/ --- Post updated --- According to a few posts on the slantsix forum Mikescarbs seem to sell some quality stuff
I broke my speedometer pinion... Ah the joys of being bored, lonely and isolated, because only good things happen to those kind of people...
