I got the most of the more expensive stuff for this for Christmas https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2299884. I have to get screws,a pair of servos and finish printing it. I also have to get a lipo charger for my traxxas stampede since I got a lipo for it but, it wont work with my current lipo charger I use for my old SCX-10 and soon the Ursa. I am considering modifying the D series RC body on Thingiverse to fit. I also got the Bond Aston Marton Lego set so that will be fun to build.
I mean Christmas for me was pretty cool. I got a desk and a mouse along with a ton of DSM shirts. Also got 150 bucks to get started on getting my own wheel pedals and shifter. So ye I guess it was pretty good.
i'll be starting my own little company of realistic sim racing products very soon, so hmu if you'd be interested. first products will be pedals and a handbrake, expected to be ready for production starting in february
Just wondering... will you have the ability, at any point, to produce force-feedback pedals or a force-feedback shifter?
vibration feedback is a planned extra for the pedals and handbrake, and i've been trying to figure out a design for the shifter to include some form of independent motion as well, but it will have to be used through a third-party software, and won't be compatible with beamng. all of my designs so far are fairly high-end and use real car parts for ultimate realism, however the prices are going to be a lot cheaper than anything else in each product's class. for example, the pedals will feature a hydraulic clutch and brake, and the estimated retail price will be around $600-700 USD. this isn't because they're "low quality", it's just because i'm a single person making these in my house, and i'm not worried about making stupid amounts of profit at the moment. my job is simply to provide people with the best driving experience in the comfort and safety of their own home, without charging them ridiculous amounts of money in the process.
Finally got BeamNG, after about 6 years of wanting it, probably logged about 8 hours today alone. Glad to finally be able to really join the community
welcome to our favorite driving simulator! i've seen you around quite a bit, and your join date to the forums is in 2016, so i'm sure you're familiar with everything. but it's great to hear of somebody new joining the game, regardless of their forum activity.
Thanks! I’ve done a pretty good job of keeping up with things, as far as I know, but it’s a totally different thing to be able to experience everything. Loving 0.15!
some parts arrived today. waiting on like 15 more things, plus some other stuff i havent got around to ordering yet. sorry for the iphone 6 photo, my canon was dead
I have to print some clodbuster rims and hex adapters because the ursa rims are too small. I guess I am one of the few using larger tires since the proper smaller ones are on 6 month backorder or something like that. Ah well it will go over and through stuff better.
although it would be nice, it doesn't seem like it would make sense in the configuration i'm designing right now. it could theoretically be achieved by shortening the throw of the shift fork so that the bearing does not roll off the apex of the lobes, and then moving the buttons closer to compensate for the shorter movement, but i think i would much rather spend time designing a standalone sequential shifter that doesn't compromise on tactile feel and realism.
printing modified clod wheels that have a 12mm hex in them, I got a bunch of hardware today so I can start assembling stuff. I also had an eye doctors appointment, having dilated eyes sucks.
Just bought an MSI Z170 Mortar board, so I can finally use the overclocking feature on the i5-6600K. I already have an AIO and the 1060 6 gig, so upgrading to an overclock-able board is exciting. I am seeing some people get that i5 to over 4.5, so i cant wait to play with that. I found the board via MSI's Refurbished selection for freaking 60 bucks lol
Can't complain for that price! Set voltage manually auto setting tends to go bit over the top, always stay less than 1.42V or so, even 1.4V might be bit high, but serious damage can happen with even short time over 1.5V and there are variation, difference from what MB shows and what really is etc. AUTO setting can get it to 1.5V easily, so that is something to be aware of. Best might be to aim for 1.25V or something like that and see what it can do on that, then very slightly alter it, but overclocking guides are much better explaining that than I am.
yea I was just reading through THIS article on Skylake overclocking....definitely a lot of shit on there that goes way over my head, but he was mentioning that the AUTO setting on the skylake 6600k and 7600k were usually pretty good, reliable...but I basically just want to go up from the stock clock to something like 4.3 or 4.4ghz. Also, THIS is the exact ram that I have in my system at the moment. I wanted to know specifically if that RAM was able to be overclocked.. It's 2400mhz, id like to bump that up as well.