What is your default vehicle?

A Gavril D-Series With Off-Road IFS and Coil Sprung, 3-Link Live Axle in the rear 17x9 Trial 1000 Rims and 33x12.50R17 All Terrain Tires. Locking differentials, a center transfercase. Tow mirrors for epic murrica trucc. Facelifted Fascia and bumper (credit to me). Some nice goodies under the hood, but atm, its all under wraps.

 

Freedom/10

 

An Ibishu Miramar Wagon
with lifted suspension, wangan rs 15x8 wheels and 28" crashhard offroad tires, 4wd, locked diffs front and rear, a rally bumper bar, and a 2l turbodiesel i4 mated to an 8 speed gearbox, with a relocated rear license plate

 

Whats that Pessima mod?

 

what post are you referring to?

 

whoops i meant to reply to someone elses post, sorry

 

1996 Ibishu Pessima with a 3.0 V6 race engine and AWD.

also it doesn't have ABS

 

1987 Ibishu Covet 2.0T 'Don'Yoku'

A rare JDM Covet with a turbo I5 and AWD. it was produced as a commemoration car for Ibishu's success as a company.
Don'Yoku translates from Japanese to 'Covet' in English.
Production stopped due to lack of sales and safety concerns. The car had way to much HP and a laggy turbo, leading to snap oversteer in all cars.
only 1560 were produced
Coming to WBIMP 1.0

 

New Default time.

got sick of the offroad miramar.
Introducing: A boring miramar


Features:
Stage 1 turbocharger
1.6L SOHC I4
5-Speed gearbox
AWD
minor damage
(also has an easter egg, try and find it)

 

Gavril Grand Marshal "Rebel"





Engine: Supercharged 5.5L V8
Gearbox: 4-speed automatic
Max Power: 377 HP @ 5250 RPM
Max Torque: 438 lb-ft @ 3800 RPM
Tires: 235/55R15 Sport
Overall weight: 3900 lbs
0-60 MPH: 6.0 seconds*
0-100 MPH: 12.2 seconds
0-150 MPH: 31.5 seconds
Top Speed: 169 MPH
Braking 60-0 MPH: 122 ft
Cornering: 0.86g

A supercharged and super-loud sedan built on the bones of an old police cruiser. Not as much use in the curves as I'd hoped and does not like dirt, but reasonably quick in a straight line. I may just go up to full-race suspension for better control since its existing full-sport setup already contradicts my original concept of "decommissioned cruiser with a supercharger". Or I may just downgrade to the original police-package suspension to make it even less controllable. In practice it can achieve about 1g into and through a corner via heavy trail braking but it still feels incredibly clumsy and prone to run out of grip at the worst moments. Maybe the supercharger was the thing I shouldn't have added...

*0-60 is imprecise due to cell phone stopwatch timing; nothing that comes with Windows 10 allows timing videos more precisely than the nearest second without bletcherous math as far as I can tell.

 

I believe there is a 0-60 timer built into the game already in an app. I have never used it but I have seen a video that used it, but it may be a mod.

 

It only does 0-62, not 0-60. Also no 0-100 or 0-150.

 

Toyota Levin Stance Build

 

nissan cefiro modified

its fast

 

Love my minivans

 

ETK 3000i (pre-facelift, 4AT)





Layout: Front/Rear
Engine: ETK inline 6
Displacement ci/cc: ???/~3000, devs don't give out this information
Compression ratio: Devs don't give out this information either
HP @ RPM: 190 @ 5350
Lb-ft @ RPM: 213 @ 3750
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
Tires: 195/60R15 - 195/60R15 (standard type)
Approx. Price: $9200
0-60 MPH: 7.2 sec
0-100 MPH: 17.8
Quarter Mile: 15.0 @ 93 MPH
Top Speed: 153 MPH
60-0 MPH: 140 ft
Weight: 3124 lb
Lb per HP: 16.4
Lateral grip: 0.76 g

Surprisingly lacking in grip, hard to threshold brake accurately (a more practiced driver could probably get a few feet off my 60-0 distance; game lists 126.2 ft), saddled with the most dimwitted automatic ever invented, and prone to understeer, oversteer, and every other conceivable type of steer simultaneously, the ETK 3000i somehow manages to feel fun to drive anyway. Strangely, the weight pad gives a significantly lighter weight (3124 lb) than the menu stats do (3186 lb). My 0-60 is a little slower than the menu stats report (possible that brake torquing is not the way to go with this car) but the 0-100 is dead on.

Info for those who like nitrous: with the standard long block, nitrous tolerance appears to be 60 kW (good for 270 HP) as long as you don't have the nitrous engaged below 3500 RPM or so. (85 can still run all the way up to 170 MPH but there will be an overtorque risk warning, 90 will destroy your engine in very short order). With heavy duty long block, it can take a 120 kW shot with no overtorque risk; at that point acceleration starts suffering due to traction loss, so I didn't bother to test further.

 

2001 Ibishu Kashira MR-V XSR

 

UPDATED REPORT: ETK 3000i (pre-facelift, 4AT)

Spoiler: Repeated Pics

Spoiler: Updated Test Results

Layout: Front/Rear
Engine: ETK inline 6
Displacement ci/cc: ???/~3000, devs don't give out this information
Compression ratio: Devs don't give out this information either
HP @ RPM: 190 @ 5350
Lb-ft @ RPM: 213 @ 3750
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
Tires: 195/60R15 - 195/60R15 (standard type)
Approx. Price: $9200
0-60 MPH: 7.2 sec
0-100 MPH: 17.8
Quarter Mile: 15.0 @ 93 MPH
Top Speed: 153 MPH
60-0 MPH: 140 ft
Weight: 3124 lb
Distribution F/R: 52/48
Lb per HP: 16.4
Lateral grip: 0.76 g

This is my final report (for now) on the ETK 3000i (pre-facelift, 4AT). It will be crossposted to the appropriate thread in the Official Content section to help the developers move the vehicle nearer to their intended result.

The engine of the ETK 3000i is powerful and smooth, with a gentle, wide-band torque curve. It delivers slightly more peak lb-ft than peak horsepower, with a somewhat high torque peak and a somewhat low power peak; indicative of a balanced, friendly, driveable engine. Overall power output is fully adequate, so that the vehicle never feels labored under acceleration, and is well-matched to the underbody, so that braking distances are intuitive and the car rarely feels ahead of itself. It does drink deeply, however; after 16 miles of thrashing it was down at least 1/8 of a tank. The cooling system is, again, well-matched; the temperature can go to 213F coolant and 233F oil with prolonged freeway running, but as far as I know never actually overheats against a stock engine.

The underbody feels somewhat soft, but not overly so, and remains composed over all but the largest and fastest of bumps, even taking small jumps in stride with minimal unsettling on landing. It seems to have a natural oversteer bias, as long as you are careful not to overload the tires; it will understeer if you do push too hard. It is capable of power oversteer despite the open differential, but this can be difficult to induce deliberately (such as when attempting to power through a slow hairpin on dirt); the differential can still give you grief when attempting to power up a steep hill at low speed, especially if you drop a wheel on dirt. Large skids are much more saveable than before, but are still easily capable of getting out of hand; slides should be corrected quickly if possible, and both the throttle and the steering can be of use in doing so. In quick left-right changes of direction it behaves with acceptable quickness, as long as you have the car fully under control going in; understeer will show itself if you go in to hot and if the car is already sliding then the effort is probably hopeless. On loose surfaces, the car becomes a little more of a handful but is still fully controllable. I would call the overall package somewhat entertaining but not especially confidence-inspiring; it reacts well to a somewhat measured driving style. Drawing out 70-80% of its potential is easy, but fangs appear in the remainder.

The brakes are non-ABS and can take approximately 70-75% pedal pressure before locking in a straight, flat stop on clean pavement; inclines and trail braking will of course affect this figure. They can take some getting used to at first, but are fairly easy to modulate once learned. Surprisingly for a German car, they are a bit prone to fade, though not excessively; they tend to cool off quickly after a hard stop and hang a ways below the threshold of indicated fade.

This leaves only the gearbox, and though it has acceptable ratios, I stand by my previous statements to the effect that it is one of the most irritating devices I have ever had the displeasure to interact with, in real life or in a video game. It is incredibly unresponsive, frequently requiring the better part of a second at full throttle to force a downshift; it also loves to rush into top gear, especially if you're shifting it manually and try to wind out second before going into D, in which case it will usually upshift straight into fourth, then lollygag for what feels like an eternity before downshifting back to third. In this case the workaround seems to be shifting early from 2 to D and letting the gearbox decide its own upshift point; it will then go smoothly from second to third as it should. Furthermore, in mid-to-high-speed sweepers, it will head straight for fourth as soon as your foot slackens on the throttle. Overall, a far cry from the Gavril automatics which are seemingly always in the right gear, even when left fully to their own devices!

With the standard long block, nitrous tolerance appears to be 60 kW (good for 270 HP) as long as you don't have the nitrous engaged below 3500 RPM or so. 85 kW can still run all the way up to 170 MPH but there will be an overtorque warning (I do not recall the results of low-RPM testing at this level), while 90 will destroy your engine in very short order. With heavy duty long block, it can take a 120 kW shot with no overtorque risk; at that point acceleration starts suffering due to traction loss, so I didn't bother to test further.

 

I need that lol