Powertrain Feedback Collection

D for Drive is ALL forward gears. 2 and 1 in an automatic allow you to strictly use either just 1st gear or 2nd gear; mostly for traction issues like mud and snow. But D, 2, and 1 does not mean a 3 speed. Drive will use every forward gear whether it's a 3 speed or a 10 speed. It will shift through every gear.

 

Oh ok

 

The topic/issue to bring up is...
At least in the given case (below), merely having the N2O at different power settings (never turned on) appears to make a consistent change to the stress applied to the driveshaft. (It isn't new to the current version of the game; I first coincidentally (unrelated to any game update) noticed this about a year ago.)

This happens when...
The difference can be seen between the two attached configs for the Burnside (*.pc files weren't allowed to be uploaded, so I packaged them in the zip). The only difference between the two is that one has the N2O set to 25kw, the other has it at 500kw.

Procedure:
Spawn on the plain grid map (just for a consistent surface material).
Use realistic gearbox behavior setting, all assists off (I haven't tried otherwise).
With each config - (Do not enable the N2O,) hold clutch, switch to 4th gear, keep revs at limit, release clutch (suddenly).
With the 25kw version, the driveshaft never breaks (for me at least). With the 500kw version, it always does. With the N2O never enabled this shouldn't make any difference.

Instead it should...
... be consistent between the N2O settings (when it's turned off).

My specs are...
Intel i7-9700f, 16GB, nVidia 1080 Ti, keyboard

 

my issue is that the drivetrain, engine and exhaust (which I believe are all part of the powertrain) break unrealistically

when I fall down the cliff map, and the car ends up as a "vancake" the engine stays in one piece, while it is actually about 60 pieces. The drivetrain has a few issues, I feel that the drivetrain on the Soliad Wendover is the exact same durability and power as the D15 or H-series, the only ones different from the rest (in my opinion) are the DT40L and the T-series, because they aren't cars. also the drivetrain (usually) doesn't break when I go over large rocks. Finally, the exhaust, for me, it only breaks (on any car) when I yank it out, or when the entire car is obliterated by another car or the sun gravity.

Instead, I feel that the engine should fall apart, like any other piece in the game. The drivetrain maybe should be a little weaker and maybe have different levels of power and durability based on the car and manufacturer. and the exhaust could vary between cars on sound and durability too.

Laptop Specs: i5 4260U 4th Gen, Intel HD Graphics 5000, 256SSD, 16GB RAM, MacOS 11.1 (Bootcamp OS: Win 10 Pro 64 bit)

Desktop Specs: i5 10600 9th Gen, AMD Ryzen 5300 Pro Graphics, 512SSD, 128 GB RAM, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit

input methods
Logitech G502 Hero (I think thats what its called)
Razer Ornata V2
HP V21 FHD Monitor

 

The drivetrain do vary beetween cars, for example you can easily bend the wheels of the sunburst compared to other cars (and that can be a pain with the rally version). And i already multiple time breaked my exhaust after jumping a bit too hard or after going over a rock.

 

A bit adjacent to the topic at hand here, but it is something I view as a major oversight related to the powertrain system. I'd really like to see more individual components in the part selector, especially for the suspension systems. The fact that live axles generally are considered one big component in the vehicle selector honestly does feel like a big and frustrating oversight to me.

I'm specifically thinking about things like panhard bars and in some cases links, as I know Diamonback has discussed the difficulties with more in depth engine customization before so that's a moot point. We've seen some improvements lately, such as engine mounts, but there's still a lot of room left for more detail. Much of what makes Drive's vehicle model unique is the simulation of individual components and the in depth ability to change/remove so many parts, yet some systems such as live axles are just a big single part as far as the parts selector is concerned. Even if there isn't an alternative selection for some of these components it would be nice to have the option to remove them for some less-than-advisable set ups. For example, driving without a panhard bar can be an interesting experience, but the only way to do that now is get lucky in an impact and only break that one part.

 

Oh, I see that now! Sorry, I am still new to the game.

 

It would be cool if they were hybird engines. We also need engines that are more than 8 cylinders (v12, v16 etc.) and 2 and 1 cylinder engines.

Specs:
i7 9700f
GTX 1660 Super
16 GB 2666 mhz
512 GB SSD

Input method:
Logitech G25

 

On some AT vehicles, the shifter is PRND21 but there's another OD/OFF button on the switcher, it should be made to a key binding.
Another key binding is to put the shifter lever back to D while in M mode, since doing so is allowed IRL.

The "stay disengaged until you tap the throttle" thing in DCT is software-related, "shiftLogic-dctGearbox.lua", I posted an explanation back in game version 0.21, and a detailed explanation. Automatic transmission, on the other hand, is hardware-related. The torque converter physical modeling needs adjustment, explained here.

Note: \lua\vehicle\powertrain\ are hardware(physical) luas, \lua\vehicle\controller\ are software luas.
--- Post updated ---

 

The topic/issue to bring up is...
So with many of the automatic transmissions, when they shift they feel a little sluggish at times. One example would be with the 6 speed auto for the d series, Romar, h series, and bus it hangs on a shift revs up then shifts. This is the same on the 4 speed on the bus as well. Also when power is increase and they shift, the bounce off the limiter, maybe an option for a transmission tune, or built transmission could be a fix in the future.
This happens when...
When driving the D series, H series, romar, bus, and grand Marshall are the most notable

Instead it should...
They should shift smoother with out tbw rpms increase mid shift

My specs are...
Intel core I5 4460 GTX 1650

 

I'm talking about straight manuals, which are what I usually use. Really irritating until you learn a car well enough to avoid locking up.

 

The topic/issue to bring up is...

Poor working gear breaking system in manual.

This happens when...

When I trying to change gear without using the clutch (forgotten of clutch): from still - gear 1 plug in, some kind of mulfunction sound heared, vehicle start to drive freely and smooth; at speed - next gears plugged in, some kind of mulfunction sound heared, vehicle remain to drive freely and smooth way.

Instead it should...

From still - gear 1 try to engage, another more realistic breaking gear sound needed, vehicle trying to drive but failed with twitching; at speed - next gears plugged in randomly, another more realistic breaking gear sound needed, vehicle remain drive with prior twitching if random issue was success happened (if no - need to re-engage the corresponding gear).

My specs are...

Win10, Ryzen 5 1600, 16Gb RAM, GTX 1050Ti, Logitech G25.

 

Yes, I meant that too. This gear dropping while anti-stall feature makes driving the race config cars very unpleasantly, especially with the twitchy braking. For example, when you are getting to braking zone in the race track, if you lock your tires just a little bit while braking and wait until taking the corner, the time after you are in the corner or about to exit the corner, you are in the first gear instead of the next gears or the correct gear, and this issue is more apperent in where you have to hold your speed.

 

More adequate low RPM (1500-2800) shifting at automatic and DCT, and more realistic clutch sensitive.

 

Automatic transmissions (shifting and shifting logic)

This is true for all auto transmissions especially the 8 speed which is supposed to be smart and next generation, all transmissions have problems when you don't press the throttle all the way and just want to drive calmly.

For example on the ETK800's auto transmission wanting to accelerate say at 40% throttle it just won't shift at right times, once you start it's ok from first to second and then it just wants to shift earlier and earlier to the point where you are driving at 90 km/h and it stays at 1100 rpm slipping and it won't shift down till 900rpm, shift points are all wrong.



Here you can see that the zf8 speed upshifts from 1st to 2nd when it senses wheelspin (0:10-0:16) and (0:32-0:41), currently in your game the 8 speed auto won't upshift in time when you get wheelspin and has some delay when going from gear to gear and as a result of that you go above 5000 rpm on the diesel ETK's

The other thing is because you are at 40% throttle and at 2000rpm right before upshifting rpms jump up which in real life will be sure sign your transmission has a problem. Also it will be good to implement automatic transmission damage like overheating, slipping, jerky shifts. Engines and manual gearboxes have mechanical damage so why auto's don't?

There is a mod that changes how auto's with torque converters work from a user called default0.0player. You can look into the mod and see how it works, it's not perfect but it is better than the stock game's way of doing things.

One small thing also: ESC, TCS and ABS systems have wrong names, symbols and flash too fast on new ETK's, can you make them look like the real ones

View attachment 796926

 

No it's not the same thing in real life the Manual transmission car will slow while the rpm stays in beamng the rpm goes down and the speed here's a link of what happens in beamng

 

As I said, the exact same thing happens in real life, it's called engine braking, look it up.

 

I have to admit that IRL older auto transmissions can easily feel sluggish as well, so I don't know if it is intentional.

 

I feel like there should just be a way to tune or rebuild an older on in game to shift better and faster

 

UPDATE: I was wrong, manuals aren't getting stuck in anti-stall