oil all over the starter is very good indeed this is the reason why it doesn't kickdown, i though it was an electronic kickdown thing but its vacuum operated. And about the brakes, my pop just said, "oh the pads are supposed to rub on the disc" and then when it comes to weeping front and rear seals "its just a small leak i would worry about it" then again for the rubbers "ahh theres still rubber so why replace it when its not broken". I'm just about ready to strangle this man because of his cheapness, always insisting on spending as little as possible. Then lying to me that the car is perfectly fine and nothing wrong with it. On account of it stalling all the time (before the carb and electrics rebuild) "oh on hot days some old cars do stall". This man know nothing about cars or maintenance. Did i mention the front bearing where gone, what he says "so what if it wobbles a bit, all old cars wobble a bit, you worry to much, you'll get gray hairs with all this worrying" And how many times was my worrying right. Then he asks me to chip in with the repairs (he offered when he first gave me the car to pay for all the repairs, yet he didn't think i would be so competent), fair enough, but a little while later he tells how money he has in his retirement fund: 100 000+, yet he asks me to pay half of a meager $1400 for the engine repairs and half of the $2000 required for the front end rebuild.
So the 2.7 was derived from the 3.5L SOHC... despite it sharing zero parts and being built in a COMPLETELY different factory. It was an all-aluminum 60 degree V6, DOHC, port injection... it was actually really advanced when it first came out in the late 90's. But Chrysler, being Chrysler, had great engineering but an inherently flawed design with the LH engine. The biggest issues were sludge, improper oiling of the rockers/top end, higher than normal operating temp, and a timing CHAIN driven water pump that would leak into the crankcase. After coolant started getting into the oil, the oil would thin out, then the rest of the engine's issues were increased 10 fold. They were all but guaranteed to fail. You're lucky to get 150,000 miles out of one, and that's being religious with maintenance. More than likely zero that were sold for fleet duty are still on the road, they just couldn't hold up to the stresses of, like, being an engine.
One of my friends recently bought a Chrysler 300. I think it might have the 2.7, I know its a V6. He posted a video of a pull and it looked slower than the Regal, almost the same as the Suburban. I still see quite a few 2.7s being driven by elderly people every once in a while.
Just saw a Tuned 2004 Audi A4 in silver paint with tinted taillights. And it sounded like an old 911. So good
Gonna get a Tune on my car tommorow itll be a bump of around 40hp from 245 to 286 cant wait to see how it drives
So I just bought a convertible "BMW" today. Its silver and hasn't run in a while, but it was very cheap. Only $300.
I'd say go for the ATV, especially if you have friends that ride. We go to the same sand dunes every year because it's so much fun, like steering you own personal roller coaster. Even just bombing around on backroads and trails is a lot of fun. Why is BMW in quotes? Did someone stick some BMW badges on not a BMW?
Yeah, I've had a couple in my day. I miss having one, I used to be able to drift and jump really good. Only problem is my budget gets me either a decently large cc Honda that's blown up and needs rebuilt, a really clapped out Suzuki or Polaris, or a brand new Chinese 150cc hunk of crap (that they make big bore kits for).
My dad bought a chinesium knock-off Husqvarna chainsaw that has been surprisingly reliable, though I can't say I'd be willing to put as much faith in something that could leave me stranded on a trail in the middle of nowhere.
I assemble Chinese scooters, dirtbikes, and ATVs for work. They are not built well. If you are going to do any serious offroading I'd recommend to stay away. They can hold up to gentle use and are probably good to learn on, but thats all.
Yeah, the plan is to get something Japanese. A Chinese ATV might get you there, but a Japanese one will always get you home.
Today i went to change the thermostat, and i did so successfully... Until i refilled the radiator immediately after putting it all back together. Oops
Finally after two days of fucking around with leaky hoses, plus some that wont come off, broken temp gauges, two thermostat gaskets, and a shit load of gasket paste and funny idling speeds... The engine is staying cool at a solid 90 degrees. I put the old thermostat in a pot of boiling water and it didn't even open, not in the slightest. Its a wonder how i didn't cook the engine
Just a tip for future reference. If hoses are old and being stubborn, just cut a slice in them lengthwise at the stuck end with a razor. If its being replaced anyways there is no point fighting it. Just be careful not to gouge the fitting with the razor and make sure you can get replacement hoses (especially for an older car).
Hmmm, thats a good idea, but nah that wasn't the problem, the hoses themself while being old are still very nice and soft with no age related problems by the looks of it, it was just that for some reason it wouldn't seal and the coolant would spout out in the same place, i managed to fix it by moving the clamp nearer the end of the hose towards the thermostat housing, but then after i made the post i took it out for some more rigorous testing and it started to overheat. The system does have air bubbles in it currently but even then 115 degrees is too hot for an air bubble, so i checked and the manifold was covered in water, the hose leaking again. Waited an hour, then opened the radiator cap, it was still full and the it wasn't leaking anymore so i drove home somewhat cautiously. It didn't overheat nor see anything more than 90 on the gauge (when i first drove the car it wouldn't work, and all i did was just touch the wire, not tap just touched it and worked). When i got home i checked and it had stopped leaking. Going to try it again tomorrow and see if it leaks, i think the problem was that some gunk (i flushed the radiator out before driving, but your supposed to do it several time right? I only did it once) got stuck somewhere and the pressure build up caused it to leak again AND overheat. Anyways that my story for the time being, jeez who thought such a simple, easy task could turn into a two day nightmare...
So the leak is on the thermostat housing? Is there corrosion there or maybe gouging that could be causing it not to seal? The good news is that the worst case is you need to replace that housing which is usually cheap and easy to do. Normally you only need to flush the system once if its already clean enough. The water pump will break up most debris before it clogs anything in the engine. It could be because of air bubbles. Nearly put my gauge in the red before because I didn't know any better and hadn't burped the system. Sometimes you need to burp the system a few times which can be a pain. I would replace the radiator cap as that could be causing your issues and its something I like to do basically every time I do cooling system work. Either way, good luck and have fun.
