0.28 Discussion Thread

Safety is important

 

Yeah what happened to this?

 

I will say this is nice but it is kinda hard to use the node grabber for the doors if they some reason do fall

 

Hello everyone. If it's not difficult for you, please check this configuration in your game: take the Civetta Scintilla (Race), install the rear wheels on the front and the front wheels on the back (Remark. Put 19x10 wheels with race tires in the back and 19x12 wheels (race tires) in front. The problem with the configuration as in the video has already been fixed). Take a few turns (for example, on the Automation test track) and tell me which configuration has better grip on the track, the standard Race or the one I suggested (where I swapped the wheels). I will also leave links to the video where I demonstrate the problem:
- standard configuration.
- here I swapped the front and rear wheels. In theory, the car should have become less stable, as the rear axle grip was reduced by installing smaller and narrower wheels at the rear and larger and wider wheels at the front. But in practice, I got a higher grip on the track, and I also could not put the car into a skid by fully pressing the gas pedal
The essence of the problem lies in the fact that cars behave incorrectly when installing different-sized rubber. For example, when I install a wider rubber at the rear (or larger wheels at the rear) on a rear-wheel drive car, the car loses stability, it begins to drift during acceleration and braking. If I install wider wheels and tires in front, then the car becomes very stable, unlike the previous situation described above.

 

not only flashing lights but also an alarm system

 

And more brighter headlights too

 

Overhanging traffic lights on WCUSA don't have collision, is this intended?

 

It was present on older versions and I never minded it.

 

Can someone explain to me why sometimes the etk I series engine can take the full 718 hp with a stage 2 block and a stage 3 turbo on max boost and sometimes it overtorques? It’s incredibly annoying as I sometimes build versions of the etk I with 600-720 hp and they work perfectly fine until they run out of fuel. then I play again the next day and the engine overtorques after 5 seconds and blows up. How’s that even possible?

 

simple
you weren't letting the engine idle for a bit before turning it off
the engine therefore did not cool itself, and gradually started dying /s

 

I‘m not sure what you mean, it has nothing to do with temperatures, it’s just the torque

 

you don't know what /s means, do you?
i see the problem now, you accidentally Diesel instead of petrol, easy mistake

 

According to Linguaholic, the term /s is an internet slang abbreviation that is commonly used on online communities and message boards to denote sarcasm. While /s can also be used for physicists and mathematicians to mean “per second,” and is also used by web designers using HTML to strike through a portion of text, you will most commonly see /s to denote some online comment as sarcasm. It is often difficult to discern someone’s tone when you are reading something because you cannot hear the inflection with which the statement is said. Therefore, people in online communities or who are communicating on social media will use /s at the end of a comment or sentence to clarify to readers that the comment is sarcastic. This makes it easier for people to read the tone. This can help avoid arguments or show that something is humorous or intended as a joke. The abbreviation /s is also archaically used to refer to a signature. While this English language term may not be found in an English dictionary, it certainly carries functionality online.
(totally did not copied from a site)

 

Yeah I just looked it up as well xd

 

No, It doesn't, I remember 0.27; Also, I'm playing with steam beta v0.14.0.5 sometimes when I want nostalgia and I see it was presented.

 

Looks like you have a fuzzy memory. How about centering the camera yourself with the mouse click.

 

I'm centering camera each time; I know...
But I think this bug little weird

 

Today when I tested it, the 718 hp version worked again without blowing up lmao

 

Even in safe mode, I can't change the horn on the SP Dunekicker. The standard horn that comes with it is Horn 4. If I changed it to any other horns, it will go back to Horn 4, even after selecting Apply.

EDIT: I found out the bug. There are two horn items in the parts selector. One right below the Paint Design, which is bugged, and the other is under "Interior", which works.

 

A theory: Combustion engine torque (and thus power) depends on air density. If you are bordering on overtorque, the difference between ground level (more torque) and being on a hill (less torque) can make all the difference.

I have run into this issue on the

https://www.beamng.com/resources/american-road.3100/

map which uses a strong negative height and as such improves engine torque and power above zero sea level values. Most cars can take the additional torque which isnt very large but if you have been very close to the limit of the engine before, this can cause the engine to die. For the 82 km Time Trial on American Road, this happens usually at arround the mid of the route where combination of height and route result in some mid RPM maximum torque accelerations that will destroy engines close to their limit.


Second theory: Peak torque (the thing that breaks engines) tends to be in the mid to high RPM range only. At high RPM, torque drops while power still raises (due to higher RPM), saving the engine from itself.

To remain on the American Road example... it is very likely that there are several places on the map where overtorque damage is a real threat to the engine. But you wont notice that because a lot of those places are on high speed roads where you are at high RPM (lower than peak torque but close to peak power)

Nuff said:
Engine can take 250 Nm without breaking
Peak Torque at 4000 RPM = 270 Nm = Engine will break if you apply 100 % throttle at 4000 RPM
But speeding at 6000 RPM will have lower torque and if you assume next gear has lets say 4500 RPM with 245 Nm of torque there, you can speed away without ever running into issues.. as long as as you avoid full throttle arround the 4000 RPM peak torque area.