Hirochi CCF Rework Bug Reporting Rework 1.1.6.1

so modest lol

on topic tho, I noticed that all of the 17x8 Soarin' CCF Superlight wheels (both front and rear) spawn in silver, regardless of which color is selected in the parts menu. I cleared my cache because it's hard to go wrong with that one, but they all still spawn silver for me. I don't have the old CCF installed.

I also can only find them as 17s. are there meant to be 15s and 16s as well? I wasn't sure if the red numbers in the wheel selection pic in the repo description all indicate shown colors and sizes, or if the bottom section shows available sizes in green and unavailable sizes in red. lmk if you need any other info whenever you have time.

ty for a dope mod I've already driven farther in the new CCF than I have in the piccolina.

 

i have used glowmaps for recolouring them to save model count, but am probably gonna ditch it

the wheel picture has green as available and red as unavailable
i never made 15/16 inch versions of the superlights, but i agree, i probably should

 

thanks for clarifying the color coding, I get it now. so I have no idea what was going on with my install when I found the wheel color bug last night, but I just tried the soarin' ccf ultralight wheels again with the same custom ccf confirg, the same map, and (I think) the same graphics settings. all of the colors work correctly today! guess I'll shrug and take the w haha. I'll let you know if I'm replicate the problem tho, and I'll be sure to take screenshots. anyway, if the superlights came in 15s, I would absolutely use them. maybe in a future update.

 

The boot opens a little too far when the Tuningstudio lip is equipped
I also discovered that the same problem occurs with the nomi lip

 

Very nice mod, excellent work! I like it a lot! BeamNG lacked an immensely popular platform like the Miata.

Few things regarding handling:
Selecta sports tyres seem to significantly outperform the regular BeamNG sports tyres (by nearly 20% on a flat surface!) is this intentional? As a 225 they even slightly outperform the 265 wide sports plus 2r tyres. That is high end semislick territory.

Rear suspension has a significant bump steer issue, the more it compresses the more it starts to toe-out, causing a lot of oversteer on acceleration. On a flat surface the outside rear wheel can see up to 2 degrees of toe-out, this is a lot. Lowering the suspension in turn also causes the rear wheels to toe-out. This in turn makes the car exciting to drive at lower power levels, but dangerous. Preferably on a RWD car you’d want this to be the opposite way, then when you accelerate out of the turn the wheels toe in more allowing the car to be more stable which in turn makes you be able to accelerate harder and thus making the car faster on track.

Rear suspension does a weird bounce in turns sometimes when losing grip, it’s making me think the roll-center is slightly off, but I have not checked the suspension geometry to confirm this.

Front suspension likes to break itself when using drift steering.

 

Thank you for pinpointing the issue here- ill try my hardest to fix it without drastic measures, but please dont expect it to be perfect, as this is my first go (and 2nd attempt on the ccf itself) at custom suspension.

I’ve used grippier tires intentionally as in my opinion its more fun, but i wasn’t aware they were that much grippier! I’ll address this too of course

 

For your first go it's pretty good! It's a really fun car and I've been really enjoying it for the past few days. Maybe it's me that's just a little bit too much of a suspension nut.
Anyways i've taken a look at your rear suspension and there's one thing that stands out, it's a double wishbone suspension without a trackrod, this essentially makes it so you can't adjust the toe without moving your wishbones. It also makes your toe angle dependant on the geometry of your wishbones. This somewhat complicates things.

However it is very fixable. What you could do is make the node-beam like the front suspension, so that the wheel can pivot. Then add a trackrod and play around with the angles a bit so that it moves as intended. I can help you with this if needed.
It's not necessary to remodel the suspension, however you could consider this as being "cheating". In that case, fun fact: the node-beam of the K series rear suspension also doesn't line up with the mesh, so it's not per definition a big deal.
Added benefit of modifying the node-beam to have a trackrod is that you can now make the toe adjustable .

As for the tyres, the standard Selecta tyres are pretty close to the vanilla sport ones in terms of performance, so maybe you could rebrand these to selecta sports, make a set less grippy tyres for the selecta standard and then maybe rebrand the current "too grippy" Selecta sports to "Selecta semi-slick" or "Selecta super-sports".

 

In DM, i would appreciate all the help i can get with that suspension setup lol

 

While we're at it, Folk VT35 in 16" and 18", pretty please. And maybe 19" if you're generous, I think they would look killer on ETK800.

 

(please dont feature request here, i was gonna be rescaling these and the other sets too anyway)

 

Funny thing: the crash prevention also kicks in in the traditional performance test (the one you do with a batch job: see https://documentation.beamng.com/modding/vehicle/tutorials/configs/#automatic-performance-testing ): the car detects the first bump as a crash-possiblity and goes straight into reverse (and crashes) resulting in an offroad score of 11. This test is always done in arcade mode.

 

Dude I never knew there was an automatic test thank you soo much!!

OT: haven’t found any issue I haven’t already talkede about (did i even point out any bugs?)

 

yeah i had to remove adas to do these
similar case with the brake glow- their loading HTMLs ruin thumbnails

 

where parking camera? how to active?

 

A reverse camera doesn't exist, see this post for further info

 

I've noticed a slight bug where if you equip the RS HVVT-L cams on the N/A Flat Six, the horsepower increases from 210ish to 270ish. However, if you then equip any of the upgraded engine long blocks (Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 20), the horsepower remains at 270. Actually it slightly decreases. But if you go back to the factory HVVT-L cams and then apply any of the long block stages, the horsepower increases dramatically like it should (360 hp and beyond).

 

hey theo real quik can u tell me how to open window on a controler because i cant do it

 

Do you have a mouse somewhere?
Because you just gotta click the buttons on the doors.
Although I think you could try finding a keybind for the windows in the settings in “vehicle specific keybinds” and assigning some button there.

 

ive always wondered why this is the case too
--- Post updated ---

youll have to create your own controls

 

The rear fog light symbol on the instrument cluster is red. Realistically, this should be yellow or amber. (Nitpicking at this point, I know..)