Electronically limited to 132, or is it 138? Can't remember; it's different throughout the years and also depends on model and rear axle ratio. I didn't ever do the full quarter mile, even though the little module thing would keep counting for it after I hit 60. Tempting, but I didn't want to look like an asshole blasting by people at 80mph on an interstate where the traffic moves at 60. Did a brake stand burnout. Breaks the tires loose well.
Mine if not the brake calliper currently balanced ontop of the wheel (think I'd leave it dangling where it won't go back on?) can supposedly hit 123mph, 0-60 in 10.1. Plenty fast enough for me. I've hit an indicated speed of 120. Self timed 0-60 at 11. End of 2nd is about 50mph, 60 if you want to push damn close to the limiter. But then I have a 5 speed stick. Aren't all Vic's 4 speed slush
Yeah. It's pretty responsive, though, especially on the police models. My car shifts surprisingly firm at WOT for a stock transmission. It's suspiciously resistant to WOT downshifts though. Almost like something's wrong with it. I mean, it's more than happy to kick down if you just dip into the throttle a little. If you just stomp the gas when it's in second at 20 or 30mph, it applies throttle but holds 2nd for a moment or sometimes a few, then it realizes what's going on and kicks down into first. I've always heard the speed was limited because of drivetrain vibration or something.
Drivetrain vibration. Hmm. Seems odd but pretty believable. I have the advantage of a shorter drivetrain, shorter generally won't vibrate as much. But then I have alot less power too. 113hp.
Exciting days of cars for me. My free 91 Dodge Caravan (yeah yeah, but its super rare awd version... and it was free) decided to put its transmission in to limp mode at 120km/h, which means it shifted from 4th to 2nd in an instant. This caused the motor to rev very high, which caused the water pump to puke its seal out. I proceded to drive it the next 20km home, free car after all, not worth the tow. I was not inspired to fix it, so I borrowed my dad's car, drove to my buddies house and routed fuel and brake lines for his drift car!
I've heard stories of people with similar trucks as mine not being able to go much over 110mph because the driveshafts can basically explode. I haven't even felt tempted to see if those stories are true.
Whereas mine just runs out of power above 120 rather than anything breaking. Engine revving high, but not at redline. Anyway. Courtesy of a borrowed g clamp. 1 side brakes replaced. What a nightmare that was.
The P71s got some sort of aluminum driveshaft which oscillates less and allows them to have the higher limiter. Without the limiter I think they top out around 140, so it's not really that big of a difference. I think driveshaft explosions is also part of the reason that the civis are limited to 110. Not sure how fast they'll go with the limiter disabled.
Is there any support for the shaft between the gearbox and the diff or is it just a straight shaft? Also. Finished brakes. A few laps of farm yard with them applied seems to have bedded them in. Now I can have abs warning going as I please, impossible before. Also noted I am a tad low on fluid.
There is a thing called critical shaft speed. The length, mass, diameter contribute to a certain speed where the natural frequency of the shaft in bending matches the rotation speed, and boom! That's why a lot of cars run 2pc driveshafts.
Having confirmed with a mechanic. When caliper has been removed from the rotor of a vehicle, under no circumstances should the brake pedal be pressed as you risk ejecting the piston from the caliper. Due to the autoadjustment feature built in, they are also not supposed to retract again. So yeah, I was right, that was a bad idea to do and was definitely to blame for the over extended piston preventing insertion of new brake pad or installation of the caliper back onto the hub.
Well its simply logic. Remove caliper from the car, nothing obstructs the piston from working free. Apply brake pedal, you stick more pressure behind the piston. Autoadjustment system actually prevents that pressure being released. I also know a guy that did actually have the piston come free from the caliper after he thought it would be a good idea to press the brake pedal. And well, I've demonstrated the non retracting piston problem myself: Prior to the pressing of the brake pedal (thankfully carried out with pads attached to obstruct ejection, not that I knew that could occur beforehand), the pads could easily straddle that brake rotor, then after pressing the pedal, they couldnt. Yes, that method totally helps... Actually took a huge amount of effort to compress that one again. Other side was much easier. If you want to release pressure, remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. Resistance of brake lines is still too much for human hands with that released though.
Did a 0-60 with the Marq. It was about 8.5-8.8 seconds... I'll post the video. Wonder if the duals will help. I'll be ready for the drag race in about a week and a half Potato Dat MPG doe.
The simple logic is what are you trying to prove? That worked for you, good, however that was your experience, not mine.
My simple logic proves that pressing brake pedal is bad and does not relieve pressure contrary to what you claim. That did not work for me, bad, that is not just my experience but that of others and also professional advice.
I replaced brake pads. The c-clamp failed to seat its piston. I pressed my brake pedal once, then c-clamp could depress piston.
I'm repainting my wheels. This shit takes so much longer than you'd expect. Done. Forgot to take a pic of it outside :| Freshly painted wheels add 10hp. I'm ready for the drag race.
Apparnetly this throttle body cleaning business is really easy to mess up. Time to consult crownvic.net
Should be ready by the end of next week depending on how long it takes my mechanic to put the H and Tail pipe on. Gotta weld the Thrush's in to. The Tailpipe was sent on the wrong truck from Indianapolis. It spent yesterday getting driven back to Indiana from Ohio. Now it's on the right track. Due here Monday. H-Pipe is due tomorrow.
