(0.9.0.1) WIP Relatively minor car and scenario bugs

Color coded car bugs; Red affects driving, Blue involves instruments, Green involve textures, models, etc, Stretchy mesh bugs are gold. Suggestions are sprinkled about temporarily as don't have time to maintain 2 threads ATM.

Hopper
Rear suspension has a habit of clipping up into the body after hard landings.

Not really a bug, but seems odd that the 4.0 shares the same manifolds as the 2.5.

Also, not a bug, but would be neat-o-matic if the exposed front yokes at the hub carriers spun. On that topic of pure visuals, imagine a working 4WD selector, rotating steering columns and spinning non-crank radiator fans...

90's Pessima
The auto shifter leaves behind shading marks at P.

The bit of the black side skirt that faces the rear wheels is body colored.

The front suspension meshes experience rather strong bending/stretching under loads, especially the normally solid parts of the struts and the front sway bar links.

The exhausts clip into the front subframe just behind the radiator.

When steering full lock, the tire and wheel hub can clip through the sway bar links, steer left, left side clips, etc. The wheel hub would also detach from the center of the CV joint boot and at the lower control arm.

The rear springs deform oddly by twisting while the rear sway bar doesn't appear to deform at all, causing clipping with other components. The rear brake lines clip though the unibody under suspension compression though seems better in 0.7.

The rear sway bar's right side link to the unibody is missing. The front strut bar is missing too.

The wheel cover of the 5-lug 2.0L and the base 200BX has the 4-lug version's shading on the backside, though the 5 lug grooves are meshed.

Suggest reducing aero drag as it's now so slow compared to the NA LeGrans.

The speedo seems jumpy in 0.9 onwards and does not reproduce the reduced sweep scale from 0 to 10 mph causing slight miscalibration. Can be fixed by setting the min, max... to 2.6, 72.165, 14.35, 1.133

Also, the gauges should have a gear indicator for autos like the 80's Pessima. There's a shadow mark for the missing trip reset stick in the dash too.

And it would be neat if the clock here got the digital gauge treatment to work.

Miramar
Half of the engine fan blades are pointed the wrong way.

The inner bits of the tie rods warp and clip into the oil pan when steering full lock.

There's a shading mark left on the gear selector cover between the 1 and D position.

The clock hour hand goes from 1 hour to the next rather than moving smoothly between digits. E.g. At 1230, the hour hand should be between 12 and 1.

80's Pessima
The rear upper link rests rather close to the unibody at rest and clips into it under compression.

When jabbing the throttle, the GT-Z's rear CV joint boots will move vertically across the differential.

At the front when full steering lock is applied, the steering rack will clip forwards out of the mechanism and the half shafts bend and interact oddly with the CV joint boots at the hub side as the latter don't deform accurately. Like the 90's model, the front struts deform under loads at the non-deforming parts where they join to the hub carrier.

For now, while the re-calibrated tacho is much improved when driving, there'd be issues until the props code is improved or the number scaling from 0 to 1000 rpm is standardized to the rest of the rev range. Now especially so with the ability to start/stop engines. Like the 90's speedo, can be minimised by setting to 500, 9000, -4200, 1.044

The low fuel light has the nozzle on the opposite end compared to the normal symbol so it looks odd when on and they overlap.

Could use a working clock too.

Pigeon
The thermals debug app claims there's a fan but the 600's is missing. The radiator air speed changes similarly to the base model so I assume the fan's also the type which is linked to the crankshaft rather than an electric one mounted at the radiator.

Dunno if bug, but it seems odd that the base model's fan blows air forward.

200BX
The body color trim of the LS causes a sliver at the top bit of the rear springs (struts) and sides of the 2 front sub frame bolts above and behind the front lower control arms to be body colored.

In any trim, the rearmost bracket at the rearmost lower link also gets body colored.

The edges of the tie rods at the boots are painted pink/red which is a little odd. There are pink/red bits here and there too.

There's also an odd pink/red thingy near the backside of the rear brake calipers that stands out more on the grey factory spec brake systems or when viewing just the brakes in the part selector. Seems to show up more on the right side than the left. Front has it but it's silver instead.

The brake caliper mount to the front wheel hub warps when steering.

As mentioned before, the base wheel cover has 4-lug shading on the backside instead of 5-lug.

The driveshaft is not shaded evenly so looks odd when rotating. Seems to be swinging about a bit as if it's misaligned from the axis of rotation. And it seems to have a bit of a non-rotating diff stuck to the rotating bit.

Also like the 90's Pessima, the speedo reads a little off due to the unequal sweep scale of 0 to 15 mph vs the rest of the sweep. All gauges read a little off and can clip into the gauge face at max rotation.

Clock would be kewl.

Covet
Under rebound/extension, the front CV joint boots can clip into the sway bar near the end links. Under compression, the lower front wishbone can detach from the hub carrier. When steering full lock, the wheel hub CV joint boots don't deform appropriately and the half shafts clip into suspension bits as they move forward or back depending on steering direction.

The exhaust pipe clips into the rear sway bar and other suspension bits just before the muffler.

The fuel gauge doesn't quite read full when it's full. The radius of the sweep of the gauge print doesn't line up with that of the needles. Some others have this issue too.

Like the 80's Pessima, the low fuel light overlaps with the normal fuel symbol even though it's mirrored (nozzle on different sides).

The tacho also has the effect of the uneven number scaling like the Pessima.

Wonder if the radio here would have a clock function...

Sunburst
The auto shifter leaves a mark behind near the P position.

The brake calipers of the sport S and better seem to suspend with no linkage.

There's odd shading on the backside of the brake discs and the (AWDs') driveshaft so they look odd when rotating.

The driveshaft rotates a little off center at the rear diff and clips.

The base, S, and RS front left strut has some body coloring compared to the right.

The police package description incorrectly says it's based on the turbo Sport S when it's a n/a Sport with AWD.

The rear upper control arm clips through its mounts at the unibody and through the sway bar's link under compression. The latter happens at rest with the Sport RS. The other arms don't quite stay within their mounts under loads. The rear CV joint boots stretch vertically and detach slightly from the differential under similar loading. The trailing arm warps and swells under compression too.
Also, when steering full lock, the wheel will clip into the sway bar depending on the side of steering; steer left and the left wheel clips, etc. The front hubs will stretch when turning too.

The Sport's 16x7 wheels don't fit properly to tires and seem too wide and large (overscaled?) compared to the Pessima V6 Sport's 16x7s.

The CVT needs a larger ratio spread. High shift rpm should be set to power peak while low shift rpm set a little less.

Not a bug, but the info readouts around the gear indicator should work with the current digital gauge capabilities. Would suggest a clock in the GPS/base model radio.

SBR
The rear suspension's upper links clip through their mounts and linkages under loads.

Not a conventional bug, but NA models don't have any air intake. The intake manifold has no 'entrance'.

The speedo is a little mis-calibrated.

Suggest having a clock in the GPS. Gotta keep time when one is doing 200 and should really be focusing on the actual road instead. Compass would be neat too. GPS that scales according to speed like the minimaps in other open world games would be great.

ETK 800/K-Series
Would suggest adding some extra oil cooling capability, especially to turbo models. IRL equivalents have varying sizes of oil-to-coolant heat exchanger depending on engine size.

The 800's oil warning lamp is placed slightly too low and left relative to the oil temp symbol so it half overlaps when on.

While the 800's low fuel light nozzle matches sides here with the normal symbol, the overlap still doesn't quite look right.

Above 80 mph / ~130 kph, the 800's analog speedos are about 2 mph off from the digital gauges and the default UI's.

The K-Series oil temperature gauges don't work. The imperial gauges use Celsius rather than Fahrenheit for the aforementioned gauge which only applies to the UK, I think.

Not bugs, but working headlight switches would be neat. Radiator fan too.

The K-Series rear springs clip into the boot under compression, the ttsport springs clip slightly at rest too. Seems that the springs aren't deforming.

The 800's rear springs detach top side and will clip through the low side.

There's some odd bending of the 2 rearmost rear suspension links at the kink on both, especially under compression. Think the lower one is called the camber link in official IRL literature.

With the K-Series but not the 800, there's a gap in the pipe between the turbo and intercooler.

The 800's driveshaft is too low at the transmission end and too high at the diff.

Not a bug, but suggest making the side skirts a detachable part and adding some underside aero covers for the engine area.

I-Series
The front struts and half shafts (when fitted) detach from the hub carriers under compression. The half shafts also clip through the opening between the unibody and subframe.

Both of the 'normal' (non-Brigsby) rear bumpers have a little black smudge to the right of the exhaust cutout.
A little bit of the interior clips through the undercarriage around the transmission.

The middle bit of the exhaust system (cat converter?) seems to lie rather low compared to the IRL inspirations. It will get smashed by anything more than a minor speed bump.

The metric gauges should use the rounded symbol for the parking brake instead of the word 'BRAKE'. Makes sense if Italy's coming. (I think Canada is the one place that uses metric with 'BRAKE' but they also get double units like the US.)
If saving time with textures, how about using a combined symbol like the Sunburst? The imperial gauges of the modern ETKs meanwhile use the rounded symbol like a UK model rather than a US one.

Not sure if intentional, but the speedos are mis-calibrated relative to the wheel speed apps. At high speeds though, they match up to the air speed apps.

Also not sure, but the high pressure turbo of the new custom variant causes the boost gauge over rotate back to 0.

The oil temp gauge is calibrated too conservatively. The rest point at 15 deg C is set a few ticks above minimum so the normal operating temp reads rather high. By 110 deg C it's off the scale though the oil temp is safe until 130 deg C.

Like Miramar, the hour hand on the clock goes from 1 hour to the next rather than moving smoothly between digits.

Barstow
The concealed headlights clip through the current radiator support when they rotate.

The rear springs on the 4-link models clip a little into the halfshaft area under compression while the shocks can 'detach' under rebound.

The headers of the V8s clip into the steering box.

Assuming it's for temperature, the oil gauge doesn't work. As the coolant gauge isn't marked C and H, making the functions clear, the oil gauge could be for either pressure or temp.

Like Covet, the needles for secondary gauges don't quite line up with the max and min markings. The angle of sweep should be reduced while the needles are made longer and mounted further from the markings. As the text is rather close, it seems the only solution is to redo the markings.

Marshal
Similarly to the Barstow though relatively minor, the rear springs clip into and detach from the half shafts under various hard cornering maneuvers.

Under compression, the front springs can clip down into the lower control arm.

The tie rods also detach from the steering rack depending on the side, steer left and the left rod detaches, etc.

The front brake discs clip into the hub carrier. The brake discs also have the baked in shading causing them to look odd when rotating.

A little bit of the interior clips through the undercarriage around the rear of the driveshaft near the diff.

Not a bug per say, but the way the body perimeter trim fits into the fenders and bumpers at the wheel openings seem odd. On the assorted IRL inspirations (and the LeGran), the trim is mounted on the painted metal rather than being integrated between bits of it. Most odd are the bits between the wheels and doors.

Is it supposed to be available with TCS?

Also, the gear indicator moves more out of place as it moves to the right. By N-D-2-1, the indicator is between the markings, offset to the left.

The tach doesn't use the whole sweep, reading high below 3000 rpm and low above it. Suggest 6200, -3100, 1.03.

Working clock and headlight switch plz..

D/H-Series/Roamer
The Cabster's beam front axle clips into the frame and engine under suspension compression. Particularly the Cargo Box model.

The exhaust pipes on the Van and Cabster clip into the frame just before the muffler. The Van's clips after too.
The exhausts on the pickup/Roamer were fixed but the black shading is now mis-aligned.

On the off-road IFS, the cv boots distort when steering at hub carrier and differential.

On stock 4WD Roamers and D15s, the front half shafts will clip into the sway bar end links when full lock steering is applied on the respective side. When turning left, the left shaft clips, etc.

Also, on all 4WDs including the custom off-road models minus the D35s, the left cat converter clips into the transfer case.

The Roamer has low beam/parking light controls on both the dash and the indicator stalk. Maybe re-use the Van's stalk instead?

Is the Roamer supposed to be available with ESC?

The Van's turn signals clip into a bit of the steering column cover when used.

The Pickup/Van/Cabster/Roamer rear driveshaft yoke is rather close to the gas tank.

Not really a bug but, like the Hopper, it'll be nice if the D35 Pig's exposed front half shaft yokes spun.

The Roamer's temp gauge starts quite a bit above C even when the coolant's only at 15 deg C. Doesn't go near H at 120 deg C too. The angle of needle sweep is fine in normal operation and matches the gauge print but the needle should be longer and mounted lower (like having a larger radius). This may affect the angle of the needle sweep required.

The pickup also needs adjustment to the temperature needles like the Barstow. Would also suggest adding oil and coolant symbols to the respective gauge. Also seem to read rather high at normal operating temp.

Digital clocks would be a good addition to the otherwise blank radios. Headlight switches too for the van and Roamer. The ambulance's screen too.

Burnside
At the front, the sway bar link and lowest bit of the shock/spring combo clip downwards through the lower wishbone under compression. The top of the link can punch into the frame too. At the rear, the leaf spring has odd stretching at the bits around the axle under compression and rebound including stretching upward into the half shafts and down through the carrier. Don't know if leaf springs are supposed to rotate/twist under loads here too.

Something's odd about how different the 2 pairs of drum brakes do rotation. Either way, the shading of the front pair looks odd when it rotates.

Just a reminder that there's an analog clock on the passenger side

Moonhawk
The Moonhawk's tach reads too low at low rpm (500 at 700 actual) and too high at high rpm (5200 at 5000 actual). Partly could be the angling of the gauge to the cockpit camera. Suggest -3300, 0.94.

Would be wikid siiiick if the hazard light slider switch worked...

All engines clip slightly into the frame at the bottom. The air cleaner on the supercharged special clips into the inner layer of the hood.

When the windows on the doors break and the doors are open/bent out of place, a faint outline from the glass can be seen where it would have previously met the roof, A and B pillar. All this despite being frameless windows. It's only visible at certain angles viewed against a day sky. The jump course scenario usually causes this.

LeGran
The sport cluster's oil pressure gauge wrongly works as a temperature gauge and the tach reads 100 rpm low by 5500 rpm. Suggest 7000, -3570, 1.018.
Like Covet, Roamer and Barstow, the length and angle sweep of the secondary gauge needles should be fine tuned.

The base cluster's kph marks are wrongly placed after 80 kph, mph is fine. The temp gauge reads almost a quarter higher at any temperature relative to the default game UI, looks like it's running too hot even at a cruise.

An operational non-analog time keeper would be swell-o-matic.

There's a see through gap between the gauge clusters and the dash binnacle.

The rear drum brakes have a rotating shading mark on the back plate. Would suggest removing the shading mark if there isn't a way to minimize the effect of the incorrectly moving/deforming meshes (that all cars suffer from to an extent).

Have to note that there's no radiator fan.

Scenarios/Levels/General
Fuel consumption seems high even with maxed out tire pressures. A steady cruise at 70 mph (no traffic/corners/wind) should out perform economy claims. Look at C&D magazine's 75 mph economy results. (Personal anecdote; on a 70 mph highway, the IRL base 320i F30 running the high payload tire pressures can easily exceed 40 US mpg average with 98 RON, including some slowdowns and swift overtakes.)

Default tire pressures for the everyday 00's stuff seem a little low. This will be a big factor when adjusting aero drag to get fuel economy and top speeds right.

the description of the 'Suspension Race' scenario starts with a small letter rather than a capital unlike the others though I guess it's temporary.

The JRI slope used in the 'Shortcut' scenario has a rather large and unnaturally rough/sharp ditch at the bottom that will severely cripple the Marshal most of the time, especially when going downhill.

Other general suggestions
The hour hands on analog clocks can be fixed in the lua by adding '+ time.min/2' to the 'clockh' sum.

The Utah cinematic chase scenario would be more cinematic if ESP is turned off especially since the player has a AWD car.

Suggest adding a 'quick' car-chase configurator, similar to the current one for time-trials, with damage/time-limit/distance/etc options.

Would be cool if there was a way to implement rev-matching for newer torque converter autos.

The Marshal and I-Series should be available with early forms of traction control when open diffs and ABS are fitted. A notable feature is that at low speeds when turned off, braking is applied to a single wildly spinning wheel to simulate a LSD.

As a modern extension of this, the newer ETKs and the SBR should have this brake diff effect at all speeds when ESP is fully off. When combined with a proper mechanical LSD like on the SBR's IRL modern Japanese and German inspirations, a very effective torque vectoring effect is available.

On the topic of LSDs, the Sunburst Sport S should have LSDs all round and a more rear-biased AWD system. The IRL inspiration uses a helical front and clutch type rear with fairly aggressive AWD. Would be cool if a over-driving torque vectoring rear diff could be done for the RS.

For the US cars and the Covet, I've made the '2' automatic position lock to 2nd gear. For the rest, the 'limit to 2' is accurate. The late 80's Germanic inspirations for the ETK I-Series have toggles between 'lock to' and 'limit to' gear modes.

Another suggestion is a 'O/D off' with the dash light indicator. Equivalent to a 'limit to 3' gear mode for the 4-speed autos and 'limit to 4' for the Gavril 6-speeds. For these and the 'lock to 2' mode, they can be easily kludged into the vehicle controller lua with no errors. Cars sometimes have a 3 or a D-without-a-circle shift position to represent O/D off but I guess it's easier to add the light at this point.

The 8-speed in the ETK petrol IRL equivalents will lock out 8th in sport. (The IRL transmission has a lower max RPM limit in 7th and especially 8th)

Their sport shift modes aren't so aggressive by default too; the lowest upshift rpm is only increased to about 2500 compared to 2000 in normal and 1800 in eco, assuming no separate drive modes are specified. (I 'chauffeur' with a pre-LCI F30 320i with the optional sport auto/paddle shift.)

Ignoring throttle sensitivity and steering weight, sport also closes the gap in shift-up rpm between the kickdown switch (where it shifts at max rpm no matter the drive mode) and the almost floored but not-at-kickdown position (seems to limit to 5000 rpm in comfort mode).

Rev-matching is activated when both drive mode and shifter is in sport/full manual mode. Not sure if it'll rev-match without manual shift input.

While possible in other applications, the 8-speed also isn't that aggressive with downshifting while coasting (no throttle or brake input) in S mode. A possible improvement is to limit downshifts when full braking/ABS is applied for an extended period. (E.g. When braking hard from 250 kph to 0.)
The aggressiveness is fine in the current dual clutches, based on their IRL inspirations from the ratio set.

0.9's sport mode that always held the lowest gear for max power regardless of throttle and brake inputs could be kept as a toggle-able feature for certain cars (e.g. secret sport plus mode, see the twincharged Polestars)

One curious observation in IRL YouTube videos is that modern turbo cars tend to upshift at fuel cutout when floored rather than the optimum RPM based on the torque/RPM curve. Hence a suggestion is to have the option to use the optimum power calculation logic for kickdown but with a separately defined max RPM. Ideally, combine this with the options to specify a max RPM for downshifts during hard braking and when no braking or throttle are applied.

(Some cars also shift short of their cutouts even if they haven't made full power.)

Apart from the DCTs and the ETK 8-speed, the 6 and less-speed automatics like the Gavrils should not downshift off-throttle. Early fuzzy logic implementations of the 90's only tune the upshift points relative to throttle to suit the driver. Those sport/power modes will delay upshifts relative to normal and, at most, will hold gears on lifting. Downshifting only occurs when slowing near idle rpm and when hitting the gas.
The whole downshift under braking ability really only started appearing when autos started gaining stuff like gyros and rev-matching in the 00's.

Strongly suggest a separate key binding to toggle back to D from manual modes.

The TC lockup clutch should also be throttle/load/speed-sensitive. Some will delay full lockup until higher speeds when higher/max throttle is applied while the speed-sensitivity allows implementation in CVT vehicles and more realistic characteristics in certain cars. (A Peugeot/Citroen product with the 140 THP 4-speed drivetrain locks up at 60 kph where the car is in 2nd or 3rd gear; if speed drops below it will unlock but stay in 2nd until below 8 kph. A mid 00's Mitsubishi CVT locks up around 70 kph, as do most modern 6-speed autos.)

(Added in 0.10) TC lockup is now brake sensitive.
It will be possible to simulate adaptive logic if there are different shift rpm specifications per mode and for different throttle inputs with a way to quantify the aggressiveness of driving. Maybe a counter that adds up or drops depending on the % of throttle/brake input. There should also be adaptive logic in normal D mode.
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Fixed in 0.10, yay ; >) The 800's rear bumper seems to be jiggling and making the outer taillights and tailgate jiggle too.

Fixed in 0.9 hotfixes,
The SBR stage 1 turbo doesn't have a mesh assigned to it.
Most of the Roamer and pickup V8 4WD configs lack their tailgate badges.
The LeGran's clutch and parking brake pedals clip into the firewall when used.

Fixed in 0.9,
Odd one, but the 195/65R15 standard tires fitted to the non-sport models cause a notable reduction in top speed compared to the sport tire of the same size. Fuel economy is around 20% worse too at a steady 70 mph air speed with the cruise control and engine info app. As of 0.8, the 215 width R16s on the sport V6 is also affected. (Notes from 0.6) The opposite happened on the 200BX (195/60R15) when it switched to sport tires, the standard tire had greater top speed but it's consistent with the effect of the sport compounds on the modern ETK R18s so I assume it's correct. With sport tires of factory original size, the Pessima manual 2.0L and auto V6 gained 5 kph while the auto 200BX Type-L lost 10 kph after 4 km. For fun, a auto V6 with the 60 profile R15 standard tires gained 25 kph vs the stock 65 profiles (!?!).
Back in 0.6 and 0.7, the 215 width R16s had little rolling resistance so my bodge fix then for consistent resistance was to switch the configs of the 4 cylinders to the 60 profiles, the 'base' V6 to the sport 65 and to increase the (aerodynamic) drag multiplier. Now in 0.8, the bodge fix is to make the sport V6 use 205 widths and replace the 65 profiles with a 60 profile duplicate in the tires' jbeam. (Sunburst 1.8 also affected so it saves time)
There's higher rolling resistances with the base and Sport's R15 and R16 tires compared to the Sport S and RS' R17s and R18s. All the tire diameters are near identical while the alloys are close in weight, yet the larger 2 sizes greatly improve top speed and fuel economy while somehow gripping better. Compared to the 90's Pessima which uses the same R15 tires, the sport compound trick doesn't work but the 60 profile trick does. For the Sport though, my bodge fix is to upgrade it to the S' R17s as there isn't a suitable R15 alloy design for a factory spec car.
The base td5 wheels and 225/50R17 tires severely decrease top speed compared to the close-in-overall-diameter R18 set on the comfort trim level. Playing with tire pressures and switching between comfort or base suspension or the different bumpers (800-Series) doesn't make much difference. Bodge fix? Replace all R17s with standard compound R18s. (In 0.7, a modded K-Series with 30 psi standard compound R18 and R17 tires got 258 kph and 238 kph respectively after 5 km. Similar voids in top speed with the 800-Series too. Economy was also affected.)
Both cars' speedo and tach needles will clip into the gauge face at very high and low readings at the angle sweeps that correspond to more than 7000 rpm and below the start stop's ready line. The 800's would be below 10 and above 240 kph while the K's around 270 kph.
Previously in 0.5.6, the SBR's rear CV joint boots clipped downward out of the hub carrier under hard acceleration. Now in 0.6 onwards, the boots are ok but the whole hub carrier and brake caliper assembly is flexing, instead of the boot, under similar circumstances.
With the off-road IFS on all, the half shafts will clip forward into the respective coilover at rest. When steering, the brake calipers will also clip through the discs while the hub carrier clips through the CV joint boot and detaches from the lower control arm.
The description of the 'Full Circuit' scenario refers to Hirochi Raceway as an island.
Based on the default scenario arrangement, one would likely attempt 'Island Tour' with the Pessima before the 200BX so I'd suggest switching the tips around. Terrain tips with the sedan, caution with the 200BX, etc. Pessima is easier for beginners to drive as it's FWD too, though the custom now lacks ABS.
The sawhorses and barrels in the 'Port Escape' scenario seem to impact performance quite badly when effects like maxed shadows and dynamic reflections are on. Bodge fix is to remove them. Object count and large custom levels seem to tank performance.

Fixed in 0.8
The Miramar's auto shifter clips past L when shifting to 1.
The 90's Pessima half shafts clip out of the CV joint boots at the wheel hub side when steering lock is applied.
The ETK 800's oil temp gauge doesn't work and the accelerator pedal clips into the floor when floored.
The Bolide's coolant temp gauge is mis-calibrated.
The Burnside's speedo stops rotating around 95 mph.
The Bolide's oil pressure gauge wrongly works as an oil temp gauge based on the numbers, which are much closer to those of pressure gauges in psi.
The front bit of the Roamer's rear leaf springs and mounting point clip into the body.
The CV joint boots on the Roamer/Pickups deform oddly when steering.
The exhausts on the pickup/Roamer clip into the frame.
The Moonhawk I6's oil pan clips into the sway bar and so does the V8s' cover thingy next to the fan/timing belt

Fixed in 0.7
The K-Series doors and rear fenders have an odd jiggle in front of the rear wheels as seen in the mesh and the beam skeleton.
The Burnside steering wheel clips into the steering column in 0.6.
With the Off-Road IFS on all Gavril applications, the lower wishbone, hub carrier and sway bar end links will detach from each other at full steering lock.

Fixed in 0.6.1
The I-Series handbrake cover detaches at the front when using it.

Fixed in 0.6
The turbo Sunburst S and RS could use more clutch torque as there's some rev flare when up shifting especially with the former. The turbo SBRs are also affected, especially the slower TTS, while the NA models slur shifts a little too much for a sporty DCT.
While the stock 4.5L V8 Gavrils are no longer affected in 0.5.3 onwards, the stage 1 variants still suffer from the inability to properly brake torque due to a excessive clutch torque value in the engine jbeam.
On both 800 and K, there's some odd resistance/instability to reversing that doesn't consistently occur. The car won't be able to reverse at full speed and sometimes even start reversing from a halt. Seems to occur a little more with real auto and especially more with the manual override shift mode. Personal bodge job fix is to set a longer reverse ratio.

Fixed in 0.5.6,
The Sunburst front sway bars have odd stretching at the upper part near the struts.
The Van's oil pressure gauge works as a temperature gauge.

Fixed in 0.5.5
The Moonhawk's front suspension wobbles apart under hard braking when lockup occurs, especially with the sport and special variants but hard to reproduce with the I6 models. All seem to get permanent deformation when turning at full lock regardless of speed. The front fascia seems to aggravate the wobbling, weirdly.
The SBR's various front coilovers all compress rather oddly at the lower halves.
The 200BX's half shaft assemblies (CV boots?) have odd vertical stretching around the differential under assorted suspension loads.
The 80's Pessima front CV boot clips into and then detaches (unclips?) from the rest of the wheel/brake hub as the suspension compresses and rebounds.

Fixed in 0.5.4
The Burnside's upper wishbone clips into the frame under rebound.

Fixed in 0.5.3.1
The Marshal and 90's Pessima accelerator pedals clip into the floor when floored. The lowest bit of the Sunburst's also clips but is minor.
The 200BX base model has the type-L badge.
The 200BX's tachometer reads roughly 200 rpm low at high rpm.
The speedo of the 90's Pessima stops rotating around 128-ish mph.
(Half-fixed) As the current props' rotation system seemingly can't do vario-tick instruments yet, I'd suggest giving the Ibishu tachos and speedos a fixed rotation sweep scale. (E.g. Currently, the 80's Pessima and Covet tachos read funny at very high and very low readings; 8000 rpm becomes 7500 rpm, 0 rpm isn't at the right place. Disregard if changes are coming etc.)

 

Mind if I bump as the bugs are still in 0.5.3.2? The first 6 are new finds too.

 

good catch

 

Updated OP again with fresh niggles.

 

The d35 pig pulls to the left after spawning.

 

Re-checked OP for 0.7.0.2, most of the green ones are really minor TBH but there are a couple of interior gauge and driving bugs too.

 

Updated again with LeGran.

Happy new year!

 

Rolling resistance seems normalized. So sprinkled some suggestions here and there. (Need digital clocks so badly... )

Hopper is very solid in terms of suspension articulation compared to the older cars here.

Most visual bugs are carryover from last year. I'd focus on the blue gauge bugs.