Running BeamNG with new computer

Yes. Especially the 770 part because I recommend a 1440p monitor as that's what the 27inch iMac has, and 1080p would look horrible. But with a 770 you need a 600+w. Corsair +1

 

What are you talking about the PSU is way to weak? The recommended minimum for a 760 is 500w or greater. As for the GPU, I selected it as he mentioned it in his post, which makes me think he might not have enough for a 770.

 

Yes, that PSU will run the system... but not for long.

It is recommended that you have a high quality PSU. It is a general rule with PSU's that you get a power supply unit with atleast 30% more power than it is needed.
500w+30%= 650w.
This ensures a longer lifespan of the Power Supply Unit.
PSU's I recommend:

Seasonic M12II Series.
Seasonic S12II Series-
Corsair TX- series.
Corsair AX- series.
Corsair HX- series.

 

I doubt the card will run at 100w+ what it's TDP is. that system I put together will pull in around -400w. Silverstone isn't the highest quality of PSU but it's great for the price.

 

Yeah, the card won't run 100w+ of the TDP, but that Silverstone you listed, probably most of the time isn't running at 500w. The 500w mark is it's peak power. It's tested in a perfect scenario. It probably puts out somewhere between 400-450w.
That's the reason it's better to run a PSU with 30% more capacity. The 650w PSU will last a lot longer.

But in the end, it all comes down to OP to decide, it's his PC. So it's his call which one he goes for

 

Thanks for the info! I will certainly look more into this build and see how the prices you provided compare to my local guys. If I can get something in between your build and my build in the $1,300-$1,500 range that would be awesome. Then I could take the extra $500-$700 and spend it on my IRL pickup..

I have heard that the i7 isn't really needed for gaming, it's mostly for hardcore graphic designers and such. But I guess I still live by the classic "bigger specs are always better" although that clearly isn't the case here.

 

The build looks great but there are some things that the computer store are gonna make you buy to spend more money.

Problems:

1. The power supply is WAY to weak and will probably barely run all of your hardware. Go for a 550W or 650W power supply. Make sure it is at least 80+ Certified. Mine is 700W and I know I will never use all of that power up. Overkill is better than Underkill.

2. Ditch the Power Consumption meter. It's basically useless.

3. If you don't watch blu-ray movies, go with a simple DVD drive. They only cost $20. The Blu-Ray drive is like $60.

4. Ditch the audio card. They were popular in the nineties but now... well thats a different story...

5. Go with a 1TB Western Digital drive. They are much more reliable.

Otherwise the build is great. But rather costly. Computer stores are going to charge around 5%-10% extra on all of the parts. Also, $40 DOLLARS TO BUILD IT! Jesus, I do that stuff for free! It's fun! If you PM me, we can talk more about building your own PC. I really think you should ditch the store (Like I did) and build your computer yourself. It is so easy. Like I said, PM me and we can talk.

 

I should have stated that better but I'm comparing desktop to notebook GFX cards. Notebook GFX cards are always much slower than their similar named desktop counterpart, like I've said a notebook GTX 780M is about as fast a desktop GTX 660ti. These cards are high-end for notebooks but meh if you compare them to desktop cards.
Source? http://www.computerbase.de/artikel/grafikkarten/2013/das-leisten-gaming-notebooks/5/

 

This system is not balanced very well at all.

The Antec case is okay (cheap), but they lack a lot of the features eg. Fractal Design has. I don't know what the prices are over there (I'm located in Norway), but here you get much more with Fractal Design. And the quality is surpricingly good. Go for the Core series or Arc (Define is good too). Remember that a computer case will last "forever". I have an Arc Midi R2, and I am an enthusiast. It fits water cooling and have great ventilation and nice features.

Get a i7-4670K instead. Much cheaper, about the same gaming performance. I have the 4770K only because I use it for other demanding stuff besides from games.

Asus motherboards are great. Z87-Pro is superb, but maybe a bit expensive for you. But you were going to buy a Mac, so I'm guessing your budget is fairly high?

Budget RAM.. Get a cheap memory with heat spreader instead. It's not an office computer.

The Seagate disk is good, much cheaper than Western Digital. Reliability is very good with WD, but not bad with Seagate, many people believe this.

The Asus Blu-Ray ODD is cheap and good, but also consider other drives (LG have some new models in 2013). Don't ditch Blu-Ray, the DVD-only models are NOT cheaper. Allways think bang for the buck. Also remember that an optical drive will overlive many computers, so don't cheap out when you can get a Blu-Ray capable drive for about the same price.

The GTX 760 from Asus is great. Quiet and cheap. They are on par with MSI with noise levels.

If you have a HDMI receiver you don't need an audio card. Also not that this card is not for gaming. Your graphics card will get you all the latest formats through HDMI including DTS-HD, you can also choose to let the receiver decode (use bitstreaming capabilities).

Forget the wireless LAN card, and buy a better motherboard instead with WLAN integrated.

The power supply is way to weak for this. Is it one thing you don't want to cheap out on it is the PSU! Buy a solid PSU and it will last so long that you can use it in your next computer.

Corsair is great. Cheap, and uses very good designs. TX series is minimum. I would go for HX or higher (AX is high end). Fractal Design Newton series are also great, they are very quiet too. You can also consider Corsair RM series, which is comparable to Corsair HX. Fractal Design are better than RM series, and comparable to Corsair AX series. Better efficiency means less heat, less noice, longer life span, better components used, lower power consumption.


Something that is missing is the SSD. A cheap office computer with SSD will feel faster than a $6000 gaming computer without SSD. SSD's does not help very much in game FPS, but they make the minimum FPS and stability much better. You don't get those long lasting laggs. Your system will be smooth and feel very quick whatever you do (but some settings should be changed in Windows). Intel, Samsung, SanDisk, Crucial, Kingston are all good brands. Samsung 840, Kingston V300 is the good cheap choices. Samsung 840 EVO is the successor of Samsung 840. Intel 335 is great, if cheap, get that. It is comparable to Kinston HyperX 3K which is also great. SanDisk Ultra Plus is better than both, but may be a bit expensive. If cheap, get that. SanDisk has great reliability, just like Samsung and Intel. Crucial too! The M500 is a bit expensive, so that's why I don't mention that.

Bottomline, SSD = important, no matter which computer it is or how expensive it is!


Good monitor, remember that DisplayPort is something you wanna look for! It supports HDMI signals (VGA too) so don't worry with compatibility. It will replace DVI, so you don't want to get stuck with that. DisplayPort is also miles ahead of HDMI (which is a big dissapointment from a tech guy perspective).


Probably you have already bought a new computer, if not, I'll help.

 

Just recently acquired my ASUS DirectCU II OC 760, and let me tell you this thing is a TANK! It's chugged through everything I've thrown at it on maximum settings and hasn't broken the 70*C mark yet. Plenty of room to oush it farther than what ASUS sets it at, unless it winds up you're one of those unlucky saps who gets one that was made on a Friday evening. Probably wise to tighten the heatsink down an extra 1/8 turn on all the screws if you get this card. Don't let the single 8 pin fool you, either. It really is still a twin 6 pin card. Wouldn't boot off one of my 8 pins and got a "please connect a PCI-E power cable" error from the other. The only configuration that's worked is for me to downconvert both of my 8 pin connectors to 6 pin, and then upconvert them back to a single 8 pin connector using the adapter ASUS included.

Granted the former card was a twin 6 pin and I had converted those two cables to 6 pin before. Maybe my PSU is somehow remembering that?

 

Well, you would see comparable result with a MSI card. 70 degrees is normal with "standard" cooling.

What PSU do you have?

 

An OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W Modular PSU, if memory serves. To me, temps consistently <70[SUP]0[/SUP]C is impressive considering my old GTX 260 baked itself at >90[SUP]0[/SUP]C under load, with Source Engine being the worst offender and causing my computer to go into a coma if I didn't watch temps very carefully. Wound up using RivaTuner to create substantially more aggressive fan profiles to artificially increase it's lifespan an extra two years, not to mention bi-monthly compressed air baths.

 

Hmm, that should be a decent PSU.

My old, overclocked GTX 280 would be around 50 degrees Celsius, in load. With air cooler actually. Source Engine uses a lot of CPU too, more than typical GPU intensive games. But then again, my CPU and the rest of the system would be very cool to, having good cooling. In my new computer my 4770K is about 35 idle and 60-70 at load, to me this is high considering my old C2D Wolfdale would be about 45 C load overclocked to 4 GHz.

What you need is solid cooling across all components, including the case.

Sorry for being a nitpicker.