Pretty sure my PSU died. So usually there's an active LED on my keyboard when it's on sleep mode, and the standby light on my Corsair 500R. 7 hours ago was working flawlessly. Hit power button nothing, only once I saw my H100i Block Light flicker, and my case light for a split second after I hit the power button, then nothing, then i hit the power button a couple of times after that and nothing. Been working flawlessly for the past 3 years. Im thinking its a dead PSU. Computer Specs: Motherboard: Z87-G45 CPU: i7 4770k [4.0GHz OC] GTX770 2GB ACX 16GB Ram Corsair CX750W Bronze 120GB SSD [Windows 10] 1TB HDD So if I am correct my PSU went to poop, then theres a slight tickle in me saying its the MOBO, then again i bought a new PSU, which will come in 2 days, and we'll see if thats it.
I had a power supply go on me yesterday (not my main rig - a windows 98 junker), and generally when power supplies go, they go with a pop and a puff of nasty-smelling smoke. That's not to say a power supply can't go silently, but that seems more like a motherboard to silently bite the dust. I'd suggest you check all your cables, take out all expansion cards and drain the caps (= press power button while unplugged) before trying to boot again. If that doesn't work, take out the motherboard and look it over carefully; most of the time you can see when caps, vrms or mosfets are broken/popped. Things to look for are bulging, burns or spills next to the offending component. Also, silly as it sounds, you can sometimes literally sniff out a blown cap; they smell like burnt plastic and the smell has helped me locate the problem in a dozen computers in my experience. though, since you're getting a new PSU in a few days, it's not really worth it unless you absolutely need to know the cause. Good luck.
I personally think it would be the motherboard. I don't expect you to have a power supply tester, so here's a easy to follow guide to test it: http://www.howtogeek.com/172933/how-can-i-test-my-computers-power-supply/ Make sure to connect the wires with the PSU switched off. A paperclip will do if you don't have a short bit of wire laying around. I've been told they smell fishy, never had to sniff one out myself, though.
Fishy? Nah, it's a nasty choking sulfurous odour, not organic-smelling like rotting fish. Whatever it is, you'd know it when you smell it.
I'd say its a good chance that your Power Supply went silently into the PC graveyard in the sky as that sounds almost exactly what happened to me on my PC last year after thanksgiving. try doing some test with nothing but the fans plugged in and see if it turns on if so then it's the power supply if not then it might be something more expensive.
Try swapping things around if you can. This is a bit of a lesser accepted and more drastic thing to try for motherboards but (bear with me) put it in the oven at 350 degrees F for 5 or 6 minutes. It's supposed to realign the connection points or something like that.
Because sometimes the metal goes back in the original direction when heated, this only works if it isn't screwed up for a long time. And it can potentially damage some components. TL;DR: Why not, but don't wait with it. Ever.
Remove supply from computer chassis/case after pulling all plugs. Plug into wall, use paperclip to short green wire on 24pin ATX motherboard connector to black wire near to green one. If it does not turn on, put load on it by hooking up an old sata HDD (as it may need the 5 AND 3.3v lines used, to boot, on cheaper models). If it turns on, chances are you either have a motherboard problem, or it's one of two things, a broken power button on the case, or a PSU not putting out correct volts/amps to power all circuts on the components causing the PC to not boot (less likely given your symptoms, though for example many of my Asus motherboards in the last 10 years have short/overcurrent/overpower protections). Many PSU's protection circuts have also kicked in on dying units, to save the user a headache (by not blowing up components or psu on the way out). Even less, though, are PSU's with a reset fuse on the back of it. I had a top-tier enermax gigawatt (was a good unit) that you had to reset manually. If it's the motherboard, putting in another power supply won't help it; so if you replace the PSU and it works again, you'll know you have a good board (provided the dying supply didn't take anything with it - don't buy cheapy ones!). Just because you did not hear/see/smell PSU fireworks celebration of death, does not mean it did not happen, or that it just didn't go silently. It could have had a small surge while it was on and would no longer power on by itself. Components are strange acting sometimes, but this is life. Try going to a brick and mortar store and getting a psu and hooking it up to the motherboard (both plugs), and your main C: drive (and video board if applicable, but take the video board out if it's a small psu and you have integrated video). If you goto staples to get a psu (for example, if it's the only thing in town that sells parts!), skip the 'basiq' line of power supplies and opt for the next larger model. If you can wait to get it on the internet, sometimes Amazon and Newegg have a good deal. Look for a supply with over-current/over-power/undercurrent/over-voltage protection whatever-it's-called stuff to help your components live longer. I picked up a Seasonic 750 watt unit with a *seven* year warranty on it, and all sorts of fancy protections on it when I built this PC. I spent ~30 USD ($) on it more than a competing 3-year-warranty model, but I have piece of mind with it. That's much more than most people need, however. I hope this wall of text wasn't too confusing, or disorganized, but I can't help that. --Cheers
I'd be wary to believe what Youtubers say whatever knowledge they have, baking a GPU does work, temporarily.
