Suspension Tuning Discussion/Tips Thread

Ever since tuning has been added to the game there is tons of potential to set up cars for a variety of uses.
This thread is for those who want to discuss tuning, what works, what doesn't work, what could be done better, etc etc etc...

As for how to contribute you can either

1. Post text instructions on how to setup your car or part. No need to post an entire car configuration necessarily if you are only changing a certain few parameters; post what has been changed.
2. Post screenshot(s) of the tuning menu changes.
3. Not sure if it can be done here, or if it should be done but you could post a configuration file. If there are concerns over that being included in a general discussion thread, mods please remove #3
4. Assist someone with their tuning setups

*****Try to use spoiler tags for longer entries, as some methods such as text could take up lots of page space. Screenshots are probably the easiest though a combination of methods #1 and #2 could work as well.

**This is not a replacement for any configurations page thread, irregardless if how to make a configuration is posted here; this thread is about better tuning, and since the cars in BeamNG are in some ways different than real life cars, they have certain properties that makes them unique to tune.

NOTE: a good way to get started in tuning is researching online on how cars suspensions, etc are tuned in real life, as BeamNG's inherent physical properties reflect those of real cars; what works for real cars should in theory work in BeamNG.

Spoiler: Example of a configuration style post

, made to show what might work for the suspension on the car.
The idea here is to post suspension, all other parts such as cosmetic parts should be ignored, engine parts can be posted however

I will use screenshot method, since its the easiest for larger setups

Spoiler: suspension setup 80's pessima

Engine has a stage three turbo set to all maximum values, as well as an oil cooler and better radiator.
Suspension is adjustable race front and rear with adjustable sway bars and adjustable front/rear differentials.

Feel free to comment on your setup, such as its purpose, usage, good/bad etc.
: This setup is fun for very tight tracks such as the small road on jungle rock island that starts on either side of the main road's tunnel. The car itself is designed to heavily over-steer when throttle is lifted off and "understeer" forward when applied, allowing for easy rotation around tight corners and a "point and shoot" method of driving . Not an easy car to drive currently but very fun when you get it right.

Spoiler: Example of a suspension setup tip, or suspension setup post on a previous user]

RE: (above post) Good setup but weird to drive, I have found its much easier if the differential is given more preference to the rear, about 60% rear and 40% front. Making the rear sway bars softer and the front stiffer lowers overall limits but makes the car much easier to drive for non constant hairpin roads. More camber in the rear makes it feel much more stable too

 

i like this idea. heres my setup for offroad solid front axle that goes in a straight line

 

For a good tip I just lower it. It doesn't make that much of a difference, but it is still fun. Only on my Super Ibishu, I left some ground clearance, but you do what you want. The only way for it to make a difference is to lower it a ton. Only, if you do it all the way, your car would obviously brake its suspension and pull a direction and crash if there is something to crash into.

This is my tip. Here is a picture of my tuned car:

Not a good photo for looking at suspension, but it is still a good tune build.

 

Spoiler: Toe tuning tip

FUN tip time for everyone's benefit. Toe is often overlooked but it is super important for a good handling car. Often rear wheel drive cars require toe towards the center of the car in the rear (this is positive percentage in the current tuning menu) and toe inwards at the front as well (also positive percentage in the tuning menu). AWD and FWD cars benefit from outwards facing front and rear toe, to counter their under-steer (both negative in tuning menu).
Toe works like this:

• Front toe, useful for the first 1/3 of the turn; outwards toe helps turn in but makes the car more sensitive and often "twitchy" if too much is applied. Inwards toe causes under-steer but increases stability.
• Rear toe is much the same as front toe, but useful for the later 2/3 of a turn, inwards toe helps stability in putting power down in a rear wheel drive car by causing power to be sent towards the center of the car. Outwards toe sends the rear outwards, good for a drift car or a front or all wheel drive car to counter their under-steer.

Here is a setup I use for the Sbr4 TTS2

Note the toe usage front and rear

This setup uses a bit more camber at the front and rear, as well as lots more negitive toe in the rear and a bit in the front to heavily reduce understeer, while still keeping the car stable. works best under consistant throttle

 

Yes toe inward makes lots of sense in that many people use keyboard controls. A wheel certainly allows much more freedom in terms of suspension setups, simply since small adjustments are easier, and therefore making a suspension that only requires small turning input for lots of turning is useful. If I may ask, how do you set up the suspension to give toe under compression? I have been attempting to do that by using the nodegrabber but so far results have remained inconclusive. I understand the basics of suspension tuning but i'll admit all the softness fast/slow compression ratios confuse me at times.

I certainly agree with more inwards toe on the Boilde, heck I often add more since I have a bit of a lead foot when it comes to throttle control.

 

Wouldn't that theoretically be practical for real life cars either or would the snap-oversteer be a bigger problem?

 

I think for econobox cars its not a huge deal, however some cars use a system to add rear toe to help with cornering, specifically in sports cars. Essentially 4WS systems took this to a larger degree, allowing for less under-steer. Some companies like Porsche have even used passive rear steering systems on rwd cars to accomplish the same task, which is actually helpful on 911's to reduce under-steer and also reduce snap over-steer. This is because originally the old 911 platform would under-steer initially, causing the driver to need to lift off, brake or turn in sharper which would then induce some over-steer. If the initial under-steer is removed then the car was able to be driven smoother, and snap over-steer scenarios were less likely to happen. Though toe is a bit different than passive rear steering the idealized outcome is similar, plus generally the amount of toe added wont cause snap over-steer itself, though it certainly might make it a slight bit easier if you are not driving smoothly. I post way to much here...

 

Always wondered why the 911 has AWS as an option in the first place, thanks.

 

Polyurethane bushings are great, Also helps for the track in that they are more durable than rubber ones. Good point about removing the "ideal" suspension, since even on a track things can get unpredictable; A lot of people who track day cars with active steering systems also remove them too, since they do have a tendancy to create unwanted over/under-steer.

Here is a good setup I like to use for the RWD ETK 856 ttsport, though it does need some fine tuning still (Had a better setup but did not save it).
dem rims
Car is otherwise stock, other than the suspension adjustments. Works really well on the "green hell" nordschleife track with a wheel.

 

Bump time, here is a config I have found works very well for endurance racing, using the ETK 3000i as a basis.

Pretty photos


Photo's of parts and suspension configs (click on them to enlarge)
parts

suspension


Car is very well planted, but still rotatable in the corners, great for endurance racing many laps around a racetrack of your choice. Note that this setup uses a stock 3.0l engine but should work well with higher power levels as well. Enjoy!

*Most of the suspension settings are the stock suspension settings for the race suspension, only camber and toe was adjusted.
**You may have to change the brake pads from premium to full race if you want to use race brakes.

 

Nice, thanks. Why does the solid front axle pull to the side in the first place?