There were 2 things that i did to the car. One was removing the restrictor things and painting the inside black but I also put a race steering wheel on the car which you may have been able to spot due to the yellow centering tape.
$70 AUD on ebay. Will be putting some limiting straps on there to make sure spring doesn't fall off the strut. I dont think they enforce cut springs where i will be racing. They fit into the strut fine and without taking off the wheel and looking into the wheel well you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between lowered ones and cut ones.
Chopped springs are gay. The 88 has them and the driver's front has fallen off the strut twice now. Started taking out the struts today and hopefully tomorrow I can swap the springs between the 88 and the 86 which has 100% stock soft springs. The 88 has a Momo wheel, which is also gay. Will be swapping that with the stock schoolbus wheel from the 86 as well.
The reason I bought the wheel was mainly because the factory excel one is unbelievably large for a car that size which also comes with power steering and it has become sticky. Other reasons for me buying the steering wheel are - I am 6' 2 and with the factory wheel it was much harder to get into the car but now with the Small Momo one it is much easier to get/fit into the car. - Momo wheel is also deep dish which makes steering easier and feel much more direct and will be used on the green excel instead of buying a whole separate wheel and boss kit for a car that will be used (raced) a max of 5 times this year. - It looks fully sick IMO - Nice material - Very light - It will also dissipate heat much faster than the factory one which is a big deal in Australia escpecially when it is 30+ degrees.
So it's time to make a change. I've been dailying my civic with the type r swap for over a year and it's been a blast. I'm ready for a bit more kick and I can't afford to tear apart a perfectly good motor to fully build it for another 30 or 40hp. Instead, the type r is going onto a shelf for a rainy day. The plan is to make more power than I can with a fully built 1.6 on a stock non vtec 2.0 running a small turbo for as little money as possible. Here is my parts list so far, feel free to chime in or talk shit. The piping and intercooler kit is where Im really cheaping out. ebay it is than. http://m.ebay.com/itm/112248080060?...34&_trksid=p2385738.c100694.m4598&_mwBanner=1 For a turbo I'm going with this because it's dirt cheap. Not ball bearing but don't care. Should make full boost by 4k and have enough capacity for an easy 400whp down the line. https://www.carid.com/turbonetics/t...W_vK9zsWE8ppJnX_QKvy4rL48m1YDBVMe9RoCzbnw_wcB The exhaust manifold is usually not the place to cheap out. Instead of a 50 dollar cast log manifold I decided on a stainless tubular one probably made by blackworks racing. Something like this but maybe a top mount instead. Open to ideas. https://autoplicity.com/5221356-bla...LMYeHT46580RmfncnQAc8-SNXJAqvhODCTxoCzO3w_wcB So those are the main bits, probably upgrading the blow off valve and I should be good to go. I'll be tuning it myself which is at least half the reason I'm doing this. Also doing rod bolts but other than that stock as hell. I just might get it all done for less than $1500. My plan is to slowly work my way up to the low 300bhp range. Engine swap should be happening within a month or so. Thanks for reading, and I guess lets see how long the first sacrificial crv motor lasts while I get the hang of tuning the poor thing. Cheers!
If you're gonna run eBay manifold, inspect it heavily before use inside and out. Theyre notorious for having little bits of weld hanging unfinished internally that then break off and get blown into engine
Apparently my car is very 'haggard garage'. Not entirely sure what what means, but if it has anything to do with looking absolutely terrible while being secretly properly built, then sure. I'd compare it to one of those drift missiles going round Ebisu or whatever. Exfoliation. Ladyfriend did this to my face, so I did it to the car. Fortunately the 120 grit was not used on me. Also found a CRX Del Sol wing laying around... Baffled by the very occasional properly sharp images my $80 Moto E takes. After ruining two Galaxy S4s and an Xperia in rapid succession, I decided a cheap burner is more appropriate for me. And back on form with a very grainy shot of my snail. Choo choo.
Thanks. I'll be going with a quality one from bwr to avoid such problems, and a log will never flow like a tubular design. I have heard what you said to be true, not messing around for an extra few hundred. Feels odd paying twice the cost of the turbo in the manifold. Turbonetics is supposed to be a midrange turbo so I should be OK if I run an oil restrictor. Of course any advice is welcome, I've never done one of these on a super budget before.
Amarks, What kind of boost will you get from it? I ask because you didn't really mention any internals. Now I admittedly know nothing about Honda's of the 4 wheeled variety, But I'd assume stock heads, pistons and connecting rods wouldn't handle all that much boost.
Sorry I didn't see this till now. Most stock Honda's take more boost than the b20 out of a crv can due to the siamese sleeves they went with. The 1.8 (b18b) out of the non vtec integras will hold more boost as will a 1.6 wich always has vtec. You can expect 300whp with a good tune out of most of these engines before the cast pistons melt. Sleeves should hold 450 along with the stock rods. A b16 with nothing but forged slugs can achieve 500whp but again it's literally all about the tune and avoiding detonation. The b20 should hold around 250 to 280whp on 9 to 12 pounds of boost depending on turbo size and be OK for a while. I do fully expect to pop at least one of these over the course of becoming a proficient tuner, but it's hard to cry over a 350 dollar engine considering how close I live to an importer, and what I'll learn in the process. This is my first time building something for myself really and I'm not having someone else dyno tune MY build. Once I get it running safe and I'm comfortable, the plan is to build a forged 1.8 block and run a mild set of cams in a vtec along with a ball bearing turbo. The block will have the cylinder support system installed and I'll have a nice 500whp setup with a 280whp setting for the twisties. I'll likely keep it in low boost and wire a red steering wheel push button to change the boost almost like a 200 shot of nitrous. The most pressing matter is what b20 to get? The low comp version had 8.8 to one and the hi comp ones had 9.6 to 1. 9.6 doesn't scare me but i will certainly have more room for error on the 8.8. Price is close so I may just go hi Comp to make the 6 weeks between swap and turbo a little more livable. Feel free to chime in anyone, this budget turbo setup is going to be nothing if not unpredictable. Edit: I'm starting out with a 5 pound spring.
What kind of compression would be needed for that 500 whp? because in my mind a 4 banger gas engine with 12 lbs of boost shouldn't be anywhere near 500 anything. It's like saying 3+2=16. Edit: Unless maybe if it's spinning 13K.
Oh no way, not on12 pounds. 12 pounds will get me 300bhp to whp approximately. I'm expecting to make 6 or 700 on my buddies 5 figure build but that's a much larger turbo and it should easily be in the mid 20 psi range. A precision 6262 should flow that no problem. He's at 10:1 and I've seen people go 9:1. The b20 will make almost as much tq as power, so a 5 pound tune might only be a small jump in power over the b16b, but I'll be making well over 200 foot pounds instead of 115 ish. I need a long fifth or I'll top out at no more than 120. I won't see past 7k rpm just to keep it reliable. I won't have a 1.82 rod stroke ratio anymore
Now what kind of street manners would that have? I have a buddy with a 24 Valve Cummins running an S300 over an S475 compound setup that dyno-ed at roughly 650 HP/ 1000 TQ, and it's perfectly tame on the street, it's his daily, but it'll also build 60 psi and do a 12.9 in the 1/4. I've got another friend with a 12 valve that has a single HT3B, and while it'll scream like a banshee once it's built boost, it takes it 6 years for it to do so. Just for reference, This is an HT3B.
Hi! long story to shortly. Always i thought about to post some of my project but i always did something other or bored to post something about my projects! But now here is some car what i missed to post about what i did on it and now it is sold Impreza 2000 WRX 300hp did with it: speakers, dash lights, engine fix, water cooler, extra gauges - turbo / oil temp! Sold. Octavia RS kombi 220hp did with it: Coilovers, subwoofer, and some small fixes! Sold. Impreza 2002 WRX Kombi did with it: dash lights ,and tried to fix it all problem all the time, result = sold Current Cars! A4 Quattro STCC Edition 2004 did with it: the winter fun it went wrong on ice....bought new rim / changed and did a 4 wheel alignment! After that i bought a cheaper car with more fun! Volvo 944 LTT Stage 1 200hp did with it: Fixed some thing in the engine bay, home made strut bar what i bought from audi Q5 because cheap, extra GFB bov, adjusted wastgate actuator, changed rear diff oil, and now i working on the programering LH2.4/EZK Left: original map - Right: my custom map! more to comes To be continued!
I went outside to the city with my bro . I pictured this when he parked the car :3 We had a bad crash last year when a taxi ran a red light and destroyed his and our front cars . The car isn't fully fixed tho but it drives good :3
