The b18a1 shouldn't give you much trouble. Try to get your hands on an oem distributor If possible. Luckily the dizzy takes all of 5 minutes to change out just need a 12mm socket. Use a sharpie to mark the timing.
It was done by my mechanic, he used all oem parts when he fixed it. I broke down in traffic and had it towed to him was just easier that way. I didn't know what happened to it and couldn't diagnose in the middle of traffic. And today my car was hit by some idiot who ran. Currently trying to find out who did it since i live in a apartment so i hope i can find out who did it so i can go ahead and make a claim or do what i need to do.
That sucks. Please don't hesitate to private message me if you ever need advice or help with that car. I just lost my Honda to some serious bullshit and I'm trying to come back stronger and better than ever in an even more capable chassis. If you ever want to send me a photo of your bill to make sure you weren't taken advantage of I'd also be happy to do so as well. I've gone to bat for a few friends against some rough service managers in my time, no one deserves to be taken advantage of because they are not an expert in a field, any field.
Had to drive in some snow today. My parking brake decided to stick on though, so that was fun. That's one cold Pony.
Another plot twist for project crx it looks like. Instead of throwing the 1.6 type r into it, I'm going to remove the type r cams and put them in a spare vtec cylinder head I have which will than go onto 2.0 crv block with arp rod bolts and MAYBE hi comp pistons if I can get a cheap set. The b20vtec will put out something like 230bhp, while the 1.6 motor will be getting fully built on the side with a nice cnc port job and some searing hot cams. The idea is to eventually gut the crx and put the b16 in that, while the b20v ends up in an old integra that I'll daily. Maybe I should just get a regular car.
Today I bought me a "new" rail buggy. VW Beetle based, 1600cc engine, 4 speed manual beetle transmission. Frame professionally built by a place in PA. So far I love this thing. Pics:
I added very expensive car HiFi sound insulation material to air filter box (inside and outside), then adjusted carb mixture and set ignition, also made air pickup of air filter box to be from down, where below is warm engine so I should get less icing issues of carb as intake air is bit warmer now. Finally got rid of ear destroying intake sound, also damn thing pulls and starts much better while being rather quiet. Today need to do oil change and sometime later need to figure out how to make exhaust quieter, I have DB killer, but would rather like something bit better, factory exhaust comes without any sound insulation material in exhaust pipe, it is straight empty pipe and insanely loud, even with db killer sound is bit too much to my liking, so might cut exhaust open and put some sound dampening inside, maybe even baffle or two in addition of that as pipe is quite long, I could have few chambers there, so tires and chain would be loudest sounds.
Ordered mounts and a really nice aftermarket harness for the crx. Next stop is the importer for the engine. Still need a half shaft. http://www.innovativemounts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=19150 https://www.rywire.com/product-p/b2-milspec.htm
So the silver Dodge has a had a come-and-go vibration coming from somewhere since I bought it, I've never been able to find the cause, it's not wheels/tires, brakes, driveshafts, wheel bearings, I have no idea. Today I was on the interstate coming home around 75-80, started around a slight bend in the road, the vibration started like it usually does. then suddenly the truck felt like it bucked up into the air, and suddenly the vibration is totally gone. I've got no idea what happened, I couldn't find anything loose, broke, recently moved, or any weights thrown off. Not sure what happened, but it fixed itself.
Sounds to me like driveshaft joint bearing thing, it looks like this -> + Don't know English word for that, but when I had issues with that, it was kind of juddering and it did come and go. You might had it binding or something in that part broke, so it is no longer resisting, but is it going to hold driveshaft in one piece now? It's not nice when front part of driveshaft works itself loose from rear part, makes bad sound and can wreck stuff.
Nope, the driveshaft isn't long enough to have a carrier bearing, the U-joint still looks brand new, and it's a slip yoke at the transfer case, so nothing to break there even if you wanted it to. I checked the front driveshaft too, just in case the front axle had somehow locked it's own hubs and was turning the driveshaft, and there was nothing wrong to be seen with it either.
Weird, but sometimes there are those weird gremlins in our cars. Have you checked the rear diff? I have had also worn diff that made random weird stuff, turning driveshaft end manually allowed aaround 1/4 turn before anything did happen at the wheels, it was not to fun to drive with.
Nope, not that either. Though I do have a truck with ass troubles, The Blazer has a 10 bolt with a factory G80 Locker, and like all G80's, it died about 2.5 seconds after turning left or right for the first time, and now it just makes clunking squeaking noises whenever you turn very sharp.
Harness came in. Worth the money. Everything is labeled, and the wires are all factory color to make wiring diagrams not useless. All the injectors and plugs are obd2, but the ecu connectors are obd1. Much more stuff in the post.
The turbo 240 is pumping 11psi now. It goes fast. It's a boogerty veryron that can seat 7. Today all I did was fix the tailgate hinge bolt that snapped and wiggle one of the brake lights.
Not to brag or anything but my turbo pushes 30 psi. It is pretty cool that you can make a fast car out of old Volvos though, perfect example of a sleeper.
Yeah but are you running a high compression originally NA engine? Stock boost is about 7psi and the ecu is stock turbo atm. The paint is gonna need a lot of work, it's trashed. I'll be amazed if I can make it look even somewhat decent. The hood and fenders are scratched to fuck, it got sideswiped, and the clearcoat on the roof is gone. Visible in this pic: You can also see the lovely rust repair at the base of the antenna and the environmentally friendly wooden bumper.
