I'm just talking about the Boulder CO "nothing can go wrong with a Subaru" mindset. I know people have had them last a long time, and no doubt that they are fun cars, I'm just poking a bit of fun.
That's what I've figured. When school finally settles down I'm gonna take the time to find what it is and fix it Most of the Boulder CO people who have Subaru's have the Outback and the more family-friendly cars that aren't as likely as a WRX to be thrashed. If you treat the car right, it'll last, but if you start modifying it or driving it hard all the time, sooner or later something's gonna break
Sounds like my Audi. Also, I figured out how the steering wheel lock works. I have to press the unlock button before I leave the car, then the wheel can lock.
Remember my friend who I mentioned that has killed every 4.6 or 5.4 Ford he's ever come across, besides the one in his work truck? As of an hour ago, the 4.6 in the 02 F150 his company gave him has just launched a rod through the oil pan. He's had such bad luck with them, that he has been more gentle with this truck than he's been with anything in the past. Basically he left the shop and got on the interstate, and aafter about 30 seconds of acceleration, he heard a slight bottom end knock, it was dead before he could get it off the road.
Not that much around here. Pretty much no maintenance is needed on our old Golf. Well, at least my mom wasn't taking speed bumps at 50. Pieces are pretty cheap, and quite easy to find, exterior plastics are probably the more expensive thing. Oh and it suck about 1000l of oil every second. Because, Diesel, you know. At least it keep the engine in good shape. 380 000 km, still running strong. I think I won't do any majore reparation on the engine till it die to see how strong is the engine. I bet it can do 600 000. Place your bets lol. The clutch need to be change though, first gear, doesn't really exict anymore. My mother may get a new-old car one day soon, so she may stop abuse the poor thing, since the 403 will never be ready for when i'll be old enough to drive, I may buy pieces for it too, the 403 can wait a bit more. Rust can't rust true ? Other than estetic fixes and suspensions systeme replacement, this shouldn't cost too much. The car drive without any problems every days, it's just not very plaising for the eyes. Don't worry I won't do anything silly with. I hate tunning, wathever the modifications. I'll try my best to stick with only factory parts. The painting, after 28 years is still in amazing state. My parents had paid an extra for it. I've to admit it's probably the most beautiful paint I've ever seen. When the time is bad, the car become grey with very light blue reflect. When it's sunny the car adopt a shinny sky blue color, it doesn't looks that good on photos, but IRL it's really impressive. Special Memphis color, very rare as well. Oh yeah, and rust finally start to show. Next to the exhaust and below the windshield. I have to fix that before it get too damaged. This car is a First hand, she was already here when I was born. It's like a part of my family.
Man what's he do to these lol. Friend of mine has a 4.6 in a 99 f150 and he's trashed that thing and the engine is strong. Transmission is going out and the odometer is going backwards but the engine seems solid.
Any car can become unreliable with years of abuse. Same thing with anything mechanical. --- Post updated --- I'm from New Zealand (close enough) and I have seen a few. There is one of these in a small rural town near where I live.
Still milling over the idea of putting an LS in the Blazer. A mid 2000's 5.3 is somewhere around 275-300 HP, and I've never built an LS before, and parts tend to be on the pricey side. While 275 is a damn side better than what I assume to be about 85 or 90 that I've got now in the 305, I feel that if I'm going to bother putting a new engine in it, I might as well put something together that makes some real power. If I can find a big block in decent shape somewhere, I can beat it with a stick and get 500 HP out of it, and If I were to throw some money at it, 700 wouldn't be too hard. Also, with the LS I'd have the EFI to deal with, either in the form of a $300 wiring harness, a pair of $200 motor mounts, as well as all the little details like making the gauges work and getting all the sensors for the ECU. Whereas with a 454 all I'd need is a bigger radiator.
Today at the "CrazyBurger" drive-through I spotted a newerish black Chrsyler 200 with a vanity plate reading "9TALES". That is all. Well, except for the fact that that's actually a pretty fine looking car, now if only it went like it looked...
Is the blazer is used often? If you feel like you use it everyday, its probably a good idea to go non-ls engine. Because then you are going to be out a car for a while. However, if the blazer isnt a car thats needed to be driven daily, i would say save up for a LS. It never hurts to have a little extra experience does it?
Seeing as how it hasn't been registered since 2013, I'd say it's not going to be seeing daily driver duty anytime soon. When I'm done it'll just be a toy that sees some trail riding and a few mud drags. The thing I'm most worried about is finding a front axle, I can find a decent full float 14 for the rear for about $150, but front Dana 60's are going for at least $700-$800 around here.
I'd honestly go LS, sort the conversion out on stock ls and then sort performance out in future. Efi to me isn't really black magic, carbs are XD but then that's because to me computers and electronic control systems make sense and I get the logic behind how efi works. Carbs, I understand the principle but they honestly stand as a bigger tuning and maintenance nightmare to me than efi. Something I've not seen you mention, your fuel pump was probably set up for a carb car, if it's not got an in tank pump already you'll need one and you'll probably need a surge tank. There's alot of info on this stuff in efi conversion guides for various vehicles. The bowl in a carb functions as an adequate surge tank, but efi needs something more substantial. Actually here's some cool tech my company does. Here we have 2 traces from an oscilloscope. Those unfamiliar with an oscilloscope, they're effectively volt meters, except instead of just giving you a number on screen they display a graph of the voltage over time, usually with thousands upon thousands of samples per second (actually some of my companies units are 2 billion times per second). So here we have blue line, which is from a plain old voltage probe stuck across a car battery. We also have a red line which is from a pressure sensor which outputs a voltage the scope can understand, this pressure sensor has been fitted in place of the glow plug to cylinder 1 of a Mercedes 4 cylinder diesel (can also fit to spark plug in petrol) Disconnect injectors (and spark plugs ideally in a petrol but not as essential). Crank the engine. Specialist software will analyse battery voltage as starter motor attempts to crank the engine. It can link that with the reading from the pressure sensor and as a result calculate the pressure in the remaining 3 cylinders without having to compression test each one individually. A simple version of this test purely measures battery voltage but can only establish that in an 8 cylinder engine you've got 2 cylinders with suspect compression, it can't identify actual values or which cylinder number it is without addition of the pressure sensor on cylinder 1. But it takes all of 30 seconds to have the simple version of the test done, that will either tell you yeah all cylinders have compression or not, it's only if something is suspect you have to add the pressure sensor and sticking that on the *usually*accessible cylinder 1 is a damn site quicker than testing each cylinder individually with an old style pressure gauge. It's fairly simple how it actually works, this engine does have compression issues on cylinder 1 coincidentally, very obvious ones that didn't necessitate all this diagnostic but this car is still just used as a training example vehicle anyway (engine has a bust seal around the fuel injector). But check out the blue battery voltage line, you can see where each attempt to compress a cylinder causes a drop in battery voltage that recovers as the cylinder clears top dead center, it's easier to crank a cylinder that has no compression than one with perfect compression. If it's easier to crank, battery voltage is lower. And so on the blue line above, every 4th drop in voltage is smaller. The ratios between the height of each pulse can very accurately get you the relative compression figure for each cylinder. Adding the pressure sensor to cylinder 1 gives you a synchronisation so you can now identify which pulse on screen comes from which cylinder and also gives you a hard value for the compression in that cylinder, you've got ratios of other cylinders and can now calculate those too. There is a little inaccuracy but it actually works out to still be more accurate than those standard pressure gauges anyway. It's not a cheap setup for the pain home mechanic. Our oscilloscopes aren't too expensive, but the automotive diagnostics software is locked to automotive scopes unfortunately (which are also wider voltage range and better hardened against some of the horrors of automotive electrical systems). They run you about £700 as a starting point, with all the adapters, higher model, pressure and current sensors etc, looking at *alot* more. Though theoretically you could get our basic £100 model in the non diagnostics software, record battery voltage yourself and figure things out for yourself, or do the same with any other oscilloscope, nobody else has this software though. Future additions, we're looking at allowing you to specify which cylinder you've put the pressure sensor on, allowing camshaft position as a feedback/sync source if you want to perform cylinder identification without having a pressure sensor and allowing you to define firing order as currently we do have shortcomings in that field.
