Ok then What I suggest you is Ryzen 1600 Corsair 3000mhz 2x8gb ram msi b350m gaming pro motherboard. --- Post updated --- no point in getting the 1600x
No diffrence Btw overcock that 1600 to 3.8ghz --- Post updated --- And the 1600x doesnt have a cooler.
Why not a 7700K, because you'll have to delid it (and void warranty in the process) because you won't get far overclocking it without delidding it, intel cpus use RUBBISH thermal-interface material inside of the chip. Because for the price of a 7700k you could buy a Ryzen 1700x and a nice mid-level class air-cooler with it. You would still have to buy a motherboard, a B350 is nice, if you're the type to go for water cooling, you'd be the type to push the overclock, so choose an X370 (Asus, and Asrock are pretty reputable, I've seen some nice words about these boards). Memory, get something based on samsung B-die memory, single rank dual channel ddr4. 2933mhz seems to be the price-to-performance sweet spot but most board will take samsung-b-die memory up to 3200~3400mhz. Guru3d (processor reviews) did a Ryzen Re-test with faster ram, it helped 10%. Ryzen is better than an i7-anything for Beamng.drive calculations, per-watt and per-clock. Keep your existing cpu for a while longer and save up for some nice Ryzen stuff, get a 6-core or an 8-core, and make sure to know which Ryzen models come with a cooler, and which don't. A 1700 comes with a cooler, but a 1700x, and 1800x is slightly better binned (worst to best, respectively), and the X models don't have the OEM cooler (which will take most chips to 3.7~3.8ghz). There's only about 0.05v of a difference in the binning between the best and worst of that class Ryzen chips, at 4ghz range. For example, 70% of Ryzen 7 1800x will hit 4ghz, but only 20~30% of 1700's will hit 4ghz, and the ones that do, will be a higher voltage (and heat) than the higher-priced models. There is a difference, but with so many cores, that last 100~200mhz isn't that important. A 1200~1300x is quad core equal to i5. If your on a budget, you won't notice the difference with the i5 to the Ryzen 3 1200~1300x. The 1300x is obviously better binned. The 1600 is six cores and twelve threads and is 100% the best bang-for-the-buck. Expect 3.8ghz OC out of this chip for 24/7 years-long reliability and a good future upgrade path. I recommend this chip, especially if you can get a package deal with a good motherboard. The 1600x cpu is merely a better bin, you'll hit the same OC or maybe 100mhz higher at say 1.35v instead of 1.375 or 1.4v with the lesser-binned chip. I encourage you to read up, if you are serious about buying, I can link you to some forums. AMD RYZEN ALL IN ONE OVERCLOCKING/TWEAKING/MEMORY ETC: http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=412876 Ryzen review with fast memory on newer bios revisions: http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/amd-ryzen-7-agesa-1006-performance-update-review,1.html If you pick a higher-end ASUS board, you may find yourself with a useful feature of being able to update the bios before you install the cpu or ram at all, just power and motherboard and a USB stick with the flash update on it. I did that with my board before I built my system a few years back and it's a wonderful feature. MAKE SURE TO DO RESEARCH BEFORE YOU BUY RAM FOR THE PROCESSOR. SINGLE RANK DUAL CHANNEL DDR4. Buy the best (lowest) cas-latency, high MHZ memory you can afford. The AMD route will be cheaper and last longer in the long run cpu-speed-wise as more-core CPU's become more common. The intel route leaves you little to no upgrade path. You will need Windows 10 for either processor option, intel or AMD. I have a 4790k system here, all color coded, decked out, overclocking this, de-lidded CPU and all, whisper quiet (until there's 10 beam vehicles in play, or 1250 explode-on-death rad-rats in Fallout 4 that is)... NO WAY IN (expletive removed) I'd (censored) buy a (bleep!) intel cpu these days with Ryzen out. Basically this: You would be an absolute FOOL to buy an intel cpu with Ryzen out already, and also Threadripper CPU coming out in a few weeks, if you love Beamng.drive. I don't make money from telling you this, but this is how I would most wisely spend my money, and I spend more time reading hardware reviews than making Beamng.drive maps, been up on this stuff over 20 years now. Overclock or not, the cpus will all be plenty fast to run GTAV, Beamng.drive, and most any other games you play. If you have any other questions, I'll check back later or tomorrow. EDIT: If you do buy a cooler, which you really won't need to be honest, unless you buy an x370 board and want to really push that overclock, make sure it's AM4 compatible. Your old AMD cooler may be used ONLY IF the manufacturer has sent you an update bracket, which some will do free of charge (you can also buy them otherwise).
Thank you for all of the suggestions, I wasnt going to go for a 7700k, just said it without thinking. I was hoping to overclock a bit, maybe 4.0-4.1 if i get the 1600x. I originally wanted to build my GPC from start, but parents bought me a pre-built for christmas almost 3yrs ago. FX-6300, Gigabyte ga 78lmt, GT-740 GTX 960. And now im wanting a new CPU, which i would need a new MOBO, which in turn Ram, which i thought if im doing all this why not get a new case too since mine isnt that good and is messy inside.
Yes, save up, until you have enough money for everything you'll need, some components might even be cheaper by then. This would be the best route to go. Don't forget to pony up for a copy of Windows (ugh, I know, we all hate it, but ya have to). You'll have plenty of time to do research too and keep and eye out for sales on things if they hit clearance.
Yeah, I probably have enough ATM, its just going and actually buying all the stuff and playing the waiting game.
Another thing with the X-series Ryzen chips is that they have the XFR modes that allow even higher-clocking automatically without having to OC the chip manually. Though that being said, they're about the easiest things to OC if you have the cooling capacity, and really, there's a lot of cheap coolers, and it's much cooler running than any overclock-able i7. Figure out if you really want to eek more performance out of the CPU, or if that money is better spent buying a few extra cores or not (like an 8 core instead of a 6-core). one path: X370 motherboard, 1700x or 1600x cpu, aftermarket nice air-cooler like noctua D15 etc am4 capable model (make sure!) other path: B350 motherboard, 1700 or 1600 cpu, use included cooler, save a bit, but have two less cores with 1600x or a 1600 series cpu where 1700 and 1700x cpus have 8 and not 6 cores. Regardless, it's still more-than-fast-enough for anything you throw at it, and with AMD, there is surely better cpus down the road for that board, UNLIKE INTEL. Again, do your research, to avoid RAM headaches
What MOBO would be good to overclock on? Highest CPU I would probably go with is a 1600x, and im looking for 3.9-4.0 (4.1 if lucky). I also dont want to break my bank account, so I would want a budget overclock if thats a thing.
http://www.guru3d.com/articles-categories/mainboards.html Take a look for X370 (more expensive, more options/ports/OC abilities via larger sets of VRMs) or look for B350 series to save some $$$ and still get most of the features you need. VRM's are the little things near the CPU usually with heatsinks on them, that push power to the CPU. The more the merrier, but if you won't be pushing the CPU that far, or right to the edge, most any B350 motherboard will do. Basically, it comes down to, what color do you want, how many PCI EXPRESS ports do you want, how many SATA or M.2 device ports do you want? Make sure your power supply has the required CPU POWER connections (a four pin, or an eight pin, or both, depending on the board you get, generally the pictures can be viewed full-screen to see). Most good power supplies 600w and up, will have the eight pin or both the four and eight pin. Don't get a no-name power supply either, if you want cheap, EVGA has cheapies that won't blow up the system and provide decent power, if you want great, Seasonic is great and provides rock-solid voltage that doesn't budge even one bit over the course of a WHOLE WEEK on my system (and it's almost 3 years old!). The system might not take as much wattage as you think, a 600w PSU will be MORE THAN PLENTY and you may get away with something smaller too. A top-shelf 500w is better than a mid-to-low-grade 600w supply. --- Post updated --- ALL 99$ to 199$ PRICED, most all are FULL ATX: AsRock: https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-X370-GAMING-K4-Motherboard/dp/B06WWM2FJ9/ https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-X370-Killer-SLI-Motherboard/dp/B0723DCPZ2/ https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-X370-SLI-Motherboard-12XUSB3-0/dp/B06X9CN71V/ https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-AB350-GAMING-K4-Motherboard/dp/B06WWC7C1D/ https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-AB350-PRO4-ATX-Motherboard/dp/B06WWF165R/ Asus: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Ryzen-Motherboard-Prime-X370/dp/B0716ZHGKF/ https://www.amazon.com/Prime-X370-Pro-Ryzen-Motherboard-Lighting/dp/B06WD4N297/ https://www.amazon.com/ROG-B350-F-GAMING-DisplayPort-Motherboard/dp/B071SGQP1Q/ MSI: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-X370-Motherboard-GAMING-PLUS/dp/B06XQ5V3R4/ https://www.amazon.com/MSI-B350-Motherboard-TOMAHAWK-ARCTIC/dp/B06XPM7FLV/ Gigabyte: https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-AX370-Gaming-K3-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B0724Z1W89/ https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-AX370-Gaming-FUSION-Type-C-Motherboard/dp/B06WLMWYMF/ https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-AB350-Gaming-RYZEN-SMART-Motherboard/dp/B06XDNB3G4/ They're not in any order, but they're all RYZEN compatible and have B350 / X370 chipsets. More expensive boards from the same brand will have more VRM's (little boxes above and left of the CPU socket) and better capacitors, and more LED's usually, than cheaper boards will. SLI capability will also generally run 20$ more though I do not believe Beamng.drive even supports SLI (it didn't at last check). See one that you like? Get it! DO read the reviews and make sure to download the latest bios on your current PC and put it on a flash drive so when you boot the board you can flash it before you install Windows to the new PC. Linking here one of the cheapest SSD's on the market that's decently quite fast and will install Windows 10 easily enough because it's SATA and not NVME (NVME is superior, but not going to make it worth spending double!) https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-525GB-Internal-CT525MX300SSD4/dp/B01L80DH4G/ They also make standard 2.5" versions if you pick a board without an m.2 port (most of the boards above should have two or more, but the cheaper ones and especially smaller motherboards might omit m.2 ports!).
Thank you for all of the links and suggestions! Right now, Im pretty sure i have a 600w thermaltake or something along the lines of that. I will look at the links you sent. Thanks!
A 600w thermaltake should be fine if it's less than 3 or 4 years old, if the voltages are steady enough and don't droop much/any in gaming (under load). Ryzen cpus are 65w / 95w, RAM is a few watts, SSD's are a few (3)watts each under load, gpu takes a lot of power depending on what you have, etc, so you can already see, this isn't adding up to even half - maybe just a quarter of your PSU's load, so you should be fine - even if it's two or three years in age. However, when adding in Overclocking, wattage can get half-more or even double quickly with an overclocked CPU and GPU (and I mean Quickly!). Just my 2¢. I don't mind helping a fellow Beam-er here, but you should be set with all the infos!, good luck!
Awesome, you'll do fine for years with that PSU. I've had my Seasonic MII 750w unit for almost 3 years and it's still rock-solid, and has a seven year warranty, so you'll be just dandy with yours for years yet. --Best of luck. I check here once or twice a day so write in when / if you get stumped.
Well there's a 1600x, with that 100$ cooler, that could buy you a 1700 cpu that comes with a cooler, OR still have room to buy a 10$ more 1700X (than the 1700) with a 40$ air cooler and not mess up the budget bad. Really, the cpu will last you years without needing an overclock. 2933mhz memory is really the sweet spot, but really, it's going to be at most 4% better than your current choice, i don't think 4% is something to sweat over The ram choice you made is acceptable, and you can always paint it if need be with plasti-dip if the blue doesn't suit (it peels off, just cover contacts if you do). 1600X = 229$ cpu + 109$ cooler 6 cores and 3.9~4ghz fairly cool running 1700 = 289$ cpu + stock cooler included = 8 cores up to 3.8 ghz with stock cooler (that will get toasty above 3.8 on stock, 3.6~3.7ghz more cool/ less noise) 1700X = 299~309$ cpu, 8 cores up to 3.9~4.0ghz + MUST BUY 30~50$ air cooler (silent, usually, and no LEAKS!!!) The 1700/1700X will be about 24~25% more CPU for your $ with little more spent. 1700X is slightly better chip yield and has 70% chance of hitting 4ghz where 1700 has only 20% chance of hitting 4ghz. You have selected a green case, it will work fine, but most AMD builds are going with red, unless you have an nvidia card or green decorations/colors in the room, consider the color. This is for YOU, they do make those cases in most colors including red green or YUCK blue - it looks like you bought a color box, I haven't worked with those, so you might have it figured! I really wish you luck, and if you just want to build it, make sure the cooler says it comes with AM4 compatibility, and I would hope you've checked the ram out that it is stated to work well with the AM4 / Ryzen platform, if all is good, then go ahead and buy what you like. Just don't spend money that could be spent on the CPU getting more cores or ghz and spending it on a cooler, you will hit a stability wall before you hit a thermal wall. (If you do hit a thermal wall, your paying for that big cooler, which honestly at most is buying you 100~200mhz!). The X series of CPUs *DO NOT* come with coolers, the non-X series DOES, but the cooler is pretty decent!
Color theme I was thinking was blue. My current is blue and somehow you can change the color of the fans on the inside. I also have a GTX 960 too so that would help with the blue. The thing is, Im not sure I want to go any higher because of price limits and what I will have, but I will look into the 1700(x)'s.
I wouldn't want anyone to overspend, and have buyer's remorse, that just stinks. Honestly though, the stock fan on the 1700 and the processor itself would be a 'smarter' decision to getting 20~25% more bang for your buck, vs a chip with less cores, and an expensive cpu-cooler. It's easy enough to update the cooler later as cash-flow allows or need arises, IF you even need it. The built-in cooler isn't so bad - check out the reviews. Oh, and the stock cooler is a downdraft cooler, that blows air into the cpu heatsink and the surrounding VRM's that are on the motherboard providing voltage to the processor.
Yup stock ryzen cooler is better than Intel's ones and while it's hardly great, it's entirely adequate
Yes, I wouldn't normally ever recommend against a nice all-in-one cooler. If you were cooling a high-overclocked 6950X cpu (or almost any X299 cpu aside of 4c/8t models), that would come in handy, but not a 65/95 watt cpu on a desktop class PC. Not when you can buy a higher-end model and run 25% more vehicles with the better cpu. You can get to 3.7~3.8ghz with the stock cooler before you really get in the warm-to-hot zone, but even then, you won't hurt it running at those speeds. The reviewers were quite impressed, and it's not other-worldly noisy either. 1600X + AIO water cooler - 339 spent for 6 cores 12 threads with a max 3.8~4.0ghz with that cpu & cooler, limited by chip yield, 1700 + it's included cooler - 299$ spent for 8 cores 16 threads with a max of 3.7~3.8ghz with that cpu & included cooler, limited by heat, though 1700's only hit 3.9 regularly and 20% only will hit 4ghz at 1.35~1.4v depending on luck - 80~90% will hit 3.8ghz though. This is still plenty. The 1700X, 70% of these will hit 4.0ghz, and 1800X, 90% will hit 4.0ghz, and when they hit it, each higher yield is divided by 0.025v in voltage required (the lower the chip model in the product stack, the higher the voltage req'd) to hit 4ghz, if it makes it there. This way you'll have an extra 40$ to spend on something else you want, like more LED's, or slightly better ram (which may help you more than an extra 100 mhz as this won't really make the system hotter). I totally don't want to argue with someone when it's their money, I just would give professional-level recommendation here, if it was an intel chip - I WOULD NEVER go against getting a separate cooler by someone else - they run hot - Ryzen is really good though, but the chip manufacture process precisely limits them to a max of 3.8ghz~4.15ghz rating from worst-to-best on OC, including luck of the draw, not including down-branded chips for market conditions (when they re-brand things to a different ID to fill market voids, though this happens I don't think it's really a consideration yet with Ryzen!). In the end, I hope @(GNG) [S.PLH] wearyNATE15 gets something he likes, and lets us know how well it works!
