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Discussion in 'Land' started by atomspeed123, Apr 1, 2020.
Maybe some day you gonna make a jeep patriot?
My dad has one, but it would be impossible to scan properly because it's a deep gloss black. Maybe at night. I've thought about doing it before, might be a cool thing to have.
I'd also be super into a Comanche for this game. I race one in Ultra4
ok it's your call
looks great so far! looking forward to more progress on this beeeute!
That's awesome! I'd love to recreate stuff like it in-game. If you're interested, me and the guys can show you how to take some snaps to do a photoscan of it, it would help massively. Reason being, among all the XJ owners we've got on board, we haven't got anyone who owns an MJ. It even helps if it's covered in mud and dust.
Also, welcome to the forum!
Progress has been made on the front end, but I think I'll wait until it's more complete before showing any progress pics here. The live streams have been going nicely, we chat about general Jeep stuff, so like I said, people are welcome to join in if they want!
I'm doing the rough bodyshell first, moving my way from the front to the A-pillar and beyond, that's the stage I'm at right now.
Needs a lifted Roth to beat lol.
Also. Hopper Scout V2 = Phoenix = the Comanche in this mod? I was toying with the idea of reviving the Scout but I'm not sure if just having the Comanche as a replacement would be ok anyways. Not sure if you'd remember but the Phoenix wouldn't have happened without the Scout and etc, so thanks for that.
I am so excited
I feel kinda bad about not posting progress pics, haha. Here's what the front end looks like this morning (I'm on BST/GMT+1)
More to follow.
That looks great! Happy to see progress.
Also, maybe there could be the repository version called the Ibishu Scout ( the 1st gen, the OG mod from the repository is the 2nd gen I guess )
Looking real nice!
Nah, the Scout was just an experiment. Everything in this mod is gonna be Chrysler, AMC and Jeep branded, so I've decided to remove all that/the badges etc would be a bit excessive. I've thought about it before though.
In terms of the repo, there's a good chance I'll be featuring an anti-piracy thing for this mod on there. I won't go into much detail yet, but without this addon none of the cars will be driveable. In theory it would be specific to the BeamNG install and each config, so you couldn't share the mod without downloading this genuine 'thing' from the repo. Should ward off the likes of Mods Gaming etc.
So like how Sergeant Fido did with his Oldsfullsize mod?
Super thrilled to see the progress on this mod, looks great so far...
This here is my XJ, can't wait to thrash it around on BeamNG!
I can change that, i have a close friend whos got one a Long wheelbase unit
how does full-time 4x4 work on these? is it just an open center diff with a locker or is it a clutch-type t case that has the clutches partially engaged in full time, and just jammed together in 4 lock?
Fantastic. I'm hoping he'll be on board, looking forward to hear more about it!
NP231 Command-Trac works like this. The 'center diff' is always locked (no center diff on this one, it's direct drive):
2WD is, well, 2WD High. Front hubs automatically disengaged and the front driveshaft isn't driven.
4H is 4WD High. Front driveshaft engaged which engages the front hubs. All four wheels are driven at a 50/50 front/rear split, the front and rear axle's drives are locked together (hence why this is called part time 4WD, because this can cause axle binding, stress out the transfer case and unevenly wear the tyres. A lot. Also, the handling on dry surfaces is understeer city.
N is Neutral, the gearbox output is disengaged from the t-case input, so no drive reaches either driveshaft.
4L is 4H but with a 2.72:1 gear reduction on the t-case input.
This is an early NP231 shifter:
NP242 Selec-Trac works like this (w/clutch pack locking center diff)
2WD is 2WD
'4 PART TIME' is 4H from the NP231. Only difference is, the center diff is locked up. 50/50 permanent split.
'4 FULL TIME' unlocks the center diff and instead uses it like a viscous unit. It can vary the split of power between the front and rear, from 40/60 default up to 50/50. The front and rear axles are free to move independent of each other without causing any real effect on the other, so it's safer for braking and much better for handling. Handling is on par with 2WD, it just has more pull from the front, making for a more 'positive' feeling and a slightly more balanced ride. It's not great off road because the diff finds the path of least resistance to send the power to, so your grip is wasted unless you have an axle (or axles) with lockers or LSDs.
N is Neutral like above.
4L is '4 PART TIME' with a 2.72:1 reduction on the input drive.
This is an early NP242 shifter:
Part time 4WD on either of these doesn't care what the other axle is doing, all of them get the same power no matter what.
Then there's NP207 and NP228/229. Both are early Command and Selec boxes respectively.
NP228/229 is like NP242 only it has 2 levers, one is H-N-L where the normal 4x4 lever would be on the others. The second is where the coin tray would be, where you shift between 2WD and 4WD. Also 4L is 2.61:1 instead of 2.72:1.
This is NP228. The frontmost lever behind the auto shifter is the one for 2WD/4WD. The one behind reads 'STOP VEHICLE - PULL TO ENGAGE'. This system was a carry-over from the SJ Wagoneer from what I know.
This is NP229, slightly simplified. Automatic engagement:
This is NP207. Basically NP231, except with 2.61:1 low range like the 228/229.
NP228 and 229 are the only boxes with the ability to engage 2L. Why anyone would need 2WD Low puzzles me, but hey, more is more!
Progress has been made but I thought I'd answer some of these first . I'll post later on today about the stage I'm at.
thanks for the fast response. I can think of one scenario where 2 low might be helpful, pulling a boat trailer out of a boat launch, don't want 4 wheel bc once you get to dry pavement it will break shit, but you want tons of power. definitely wouldn't want to use it often at all though, I imagine with enough grip you could easily snap a driveshaft if you got a little throttle happy.