I'm on my laptop right now. Specs in sig if you care, but let's just say, I can't mod on this thing even if I do have the latest of the config pack on GitHub.
I just looked at my Dell laptop's specs, and turns out that I've got a dual-core i3 (as I thought) running at a measly 2 GHz with integrated graphics...which is barely higher than an XBox One (1.7 GHz). So my question is...if I can "run" (as in, get between 10 and 45 FPS depending on map, number of cars, and graphics) BeamNG on my Dell laptop....oh, wait, people consider 60 FPS to be the golden benchmark, and there's no way that an XBox would reach that, even on lowest graphics, if my Dell can't do that. EDIT: I've also got 4 GB of RAM in my laptop, which is a (very mild) saving grace for my computer.
Part one: Remove the old PSU. Part two: Clean the living crap out of that thing. Step three: Wait for the new PSU to come.
Audio CD's are slow. One thing I have noticed is that the speed increases as you go through the disk. So it would seem that when reading a disk at x40 speeds, it actually starts much lower than that and only reaches those data rates towards the edge of the disk similar to a hard drive. So presumably CD players have to adjust the speed that they spin the disk at based upon where the laser is in order to keep a "live" (with buffer) data flow?
Makes sense... though CDs are burned to in to out, right? So technically they can just spin from initial speed without any issues, if that's the case.
I would expect that depends on how big a buffer you have to play with. If you only have a couple MB you will need to slow down the speed or switch to read a line, do a rotation with no reading, then read the next.
Maybe... though I don't really read much into optical drives. All I know is that they work most of the time.
CD players in cars make me wonder, reading a disk with those sorts of vibrations can't be an easy task. Another thing that makes me wonder is why CD's are often half the price of MP3's? But then I remember this is the music industry we are talking about. Although obviously I don't rip any CD's for personal use, I just happen to be talking about the two separate subjects at the same time...
They have larger spin platters than normal along with support on both sides of the disk and then they reject many disks that are the wrong thickness etc
Car CD players have some serious damping in them, unlike a conventional CD player mech which is normally supported on rubber dampners a car CD player's laser mech is usually suspended by springs, they're pretty cool, PIA to work on and service though.
Currently enjoying PC fan nightmare. My front case fan started screeching (happy it wasn't a HDD...), so I figured it just needs some oil and a bit of cleaning. Turns out literally every guide on how to take apart a PC fan is incompatible with my fan. I took the sticker off the back of the fan and there was nothing there, I could not find any guides that mentioned this style of fan design. After a bit of searching later, Enermax use a different fan design, on their fans you need to apply a large amount of force to the blades quickly in order to pop them off. Genuinely thought I was gonna snap it in the process, until I realised you need to deliver a fast hard impact and not continuous force. Now I am left with the question, how in hell do I lubricate this fan. Guess I am just gonna have to play around.
Yeah, currently trying to clean the shaft. This fan design is great in that you can push the blades off without any disassembly, but with the shaft being completely recessed in the motor it is a bit of a pain in the ass to clean. I'm just gonna shove some 3 in 1 multi purpose oil on it, I also have some finish line dry lube but I doubt its suitability. It seems that whatever lube was in their originally is now dark rusty brown, not sure if it started life that colour, the metal shaft has no rust on it though.
Q-tips soaked in isopropyl, always does the trick. I wouldn't use 3 in one multi purpose, 3 in one motor oil would be better, more suited for prolonged high speed spinning. But hell anything is better than nothing.
Yeah, I own nothing else so it is what it is. I don't own any Q-Tips but they stand no chance, there is 2mm of clearance, So I had to roll up kitchen roll into a super thin cylinder for one section, then roll some into a hollow tube shape for the metal shaft. I guess I am gonna have to put oil in the hole on the fan blades and then try and absorb some of the oil away?
I've never seen a computer fan designed like that before, that's one funky ass design. Just drip a drop or two onto the shaft, it will wick it's way down, put the fan back on and spin it manually.
Yeah, its their own design. Putting oil in the hole didn't work because the air couldn't get out, however I was able to use a small bit of kitchen roll rolled up as a wick to get oil down into it. Brought up some more ex lubricant with it, will have to repeat a couple times. This was the way I found out how to remove the fan blades @2:34: I don't know what he was saying, but the video gave enough information on how to get them off. There is no mention of any of this in Enermax's manual for the PC case. My fan as you can see is very different from his, so I just had to take a punt that it was the same design since the advertising for the case stated that the fan blades are removable.
All sorted now Guess I should probably get around to doing the rear case fan too at some point, since it is the same design albeit with 100% less RGB, with them both being 6 years old (+however long they were in a warehouse) I guess the other is gonna be in less than ideal shape. Lord knows what the rest of the fans in the system are going to be like. The inside of the PSU has never been cleaned since it is inaccessible (for obvious reasons).
