I've been playing with the Moonhawk's new drag variant in 0.4.2.0 and have a few suggestions. I noticed that the car came equipped with a front swaybar and there is no option for a rear swaybar. Drag racers often remove the front bar for the sake of taking weight off the nose. Rear swaybars, especially heavy duty versions often referred to as "anti-roll bars", are used on drag cars to keep the load even on both rear tires. Otherwise the torque has been known to shift more weigh onto the right side, reducing available traction as well as control of the car. At current the car does not seem to exhibit this trait, though that may change with power and traction, or maybe just future tweaks to the way the game works. Example of what can happen without a rear anti-roll bar: Another thing I noticed is that the brakes struggle to hold the car, even at idle in 1st gear (in realistic auto). The front brakes will lock up the "pizza cutter" front-runners with ease, and at a stop the car will push the locked front tires. The car would really benefit from a better rear brake option. Real drag cars will often used heavy-duty rear brakes because the large rear tires offer plenty of grip. Otherwise there is risk of "rolling through the beams" and losing by way of red-lighting before the race begins. This becomes even more important as racers will be on the throttle, keeping the engine "on the stall" of the torque converter, while waiting for the light.
The reason this happen in real life is because of the drive shaft flexing the body Beam ng currently do not have any Drive shaft to transfer power and or flex the body. They are just visual and spin in some vehicle
BeamNG most certainly simulates torque twist, and driveshaft breaking: Screenshots!/page171 plus a lot of drag cars actually do have automatic trasmissions: http://www.racingjunk.com/news/2015/01/06/the-right-transmission-for-your-drag-car/
Well of what i see it do not. I put so much power in the pickup and the Semi and never seen any action from the driveshaft. And or torque twist. Except from the open differential trying to overspin one side and twisting the frame when doing backflip with the pickup with so much power and tire grip
I haven't been able to get that kind of torque twist without turning the front wheels on launch. Or that kind of height without removing all of the everythings besides the engine on the front end. Time to insert more torques.
I find that reversing slightly then slamming it into drive at full revs seems to work well for making it higher. As for the twist... It does happen, but not all the time.
Accelerate slowly, m8. If you drop the clutch it burns the tires, and theres no torque reaction. I've gotten a wheelie and torque twist even bigger than gabe's screenshot by using the manual trans and removing the wheelie bar Also other cars have torque applied to the engine block, try removing the Covet's hood and try to stall the car. By holding the breaks, revving then dropping the clutch, the engine lurches forward in the engine bay.
That a fake torque twist... I put traction to the max on the pickup and was doing backflip and only then it started to twist one side... But the drive shaft have nothing to do with it. They are fake. The semi as a 3d one that spin but it wont do anything it wont break if you put 3000000 of torque
How do I drop the clutch using an automatic transmission? Anyhow, I guess you're right. The problem might indeed be the fact that even with an automatic transmission you'll get wheelspin instead of grip at the very beginning if you go pedal to the metal. Although it does feel a bit off, but perhaps it's only me instead of the game behaving incorrectly. With that being said, the fastest start should include a tiny amount of wheelspin.
Considering i have a clutch pedal i dont really see a difference from poping the auto or the manual.... Rigs of rods had a better clutch and rpm engagement feeling.
It's due to it being WIP. There's still features missing. Anyhow, the automatic transmission burns the clutch instead of properly dropping it. AFAIK the clutch is disabled for 'Real Automatic' in-game anyway. Just the other day I was helping a disabled person getting out of a very tight parking lot, and while I certainly realise that I would be a threat using that type of transmission on the road (as if I wasn't already with my highly aggressive driving style...), I believe I understand the basic principle of the automatic engaging the clutch. Or clutches. Honestly, if it wasn't for BeamNG, I wouldn't have had enough knowledge/experience to help. Video games aren't always bad for you, it seems.
Automatics IRL dont use a clutch, they use a torque converter, torque converters arent simulated at all in BeamNG so we get the really shoddy middle ground of an automated clutch which is totally different from the real function. Was this car stick or something and you've never driven stick?
I guess I'm an idiot now. People always explained it to me as a clutch. Although I'm unsure what you mean by 'stick'. If you're referring to the RNDP layout instead of the R012345 in an H-pattern, then yes. And what the heck was that 3rd pedal on the very left?
Thanks for the clarification. Certainly an interesting thing to know, although I'd have to ask how it works then. That's what I assumed at first, yet it didn't make sense as I drive manual transmissions exclusively. Exceptions, like in the case of helping someone else out, prove the rule. Imagine trying to shift into the next gear in the middle of a crowded street with that car; you'd literally drift into something. Or, even worse, someone.
