Not sure if anyone here has dealt with moped/bike electrics, but here goes. Chinese copy of Honda Z50 engine, brand new. AC voltage from regulator is 7 Volts at maximum, tested with two different regulators. Voltage from stator is wire Y1 idle 9.5VAC max rpm 33VAC, wire Y2 idle 13.5VAC elevated rpm 66VAC. Stator has floating ground if I understand correctly, where as GY6 type has no floating ground, if that has any meaning really. Is my stator busted, should I get same voltage from both wires? That is something I heard someone to claim, but not sure. What I have found out is that when I plug off rear light that is in AC circuit, voltage does not increase much, but engine starts better and has more low end low throttle torque, as bike ignition uses AC and voltage should be 12VAC this has lead me to imagine that poor running is because too low voltage. Has such ever happened, any ideas?
Well, here's your problem. Anyway, I don't think I really can help since the newest Z50/Monkey I have touched is my '85 Z50J which is semiauto and gets the electricity straight from the magneto instead of a battery which these didn't even have at the first place.
I'm too poor to get anything proper, so have to try to manage with crap, sadly seller of the crap somehow vanished, there should be warranty, but seems to mean nothing. I'm quite sure issue is in stator as anyhing I have found states that voltage should be same from both circuits, but then again I don't know how to figure out if I have full wave or half wave and I would need to know that in order to buy new part. However with my luck, it is a feature not a problem Also if it is stator, I need to consider if I pay 60 from new stator or 280 from new bigger motor, I could keep old motor as a backup then.
hard to test alternators properly without an oscilloscope unfortunately. Just try new alternator? --- Post updated --- oh, *out* of the regulator should be DC of course. Dunno why measuring AC at reg
It is bit hard to diagnose without having electrical diagram, which I can't get anywhere, manufacturer or seller are not willing to give it, they sell this pretty junk and don't stand behind it, model has bit different wiring from all other models which wiring diagrams I have seen, normal story, so need to learn things myself, again. Regulator/rectifier has four wires, white, yellow, green and red. Red = +12VDC. Green = ground. White = Stator coil, goes to yellow wire in stator coil. Yellow = continuing measurement tells it goes to lights and if I don't remember wrong it goes to another yellow from stator coil. At light bulb measuring 7VAC and same measurement between yellow and ground in regulator/rectifier, this I believe also powers AC CDI ignition. Stator has something called floating ground, so it is bit different from GY6, still it has only two wires, both yellow, which usually are yellow and white, it is also 6 pole stator vs 8 pole usually in GY6, but I don't know really what it is, full wave, half wave, something in between or Chinese just slapped wrong wiring to wrong parts? Then again, I understand almost nothing about almost anything and even bit less about bike electrical systems, so not sure if you can make up anything of this mess Easiest fix could be to swap ignition to DC model, with all lights in DC bike still charges 14.7 volts bit above idle. --- Post updated --- Blue is white in my system, explains wires quite well. Yellow is 7 Vac or 4 Vdc if I measure with DC side. Source from Bing images http://members.modernvespa.net/kent_kurt/uploads/dratv_2225_10997212_1_713.jpeg
Try to make up something from this, I'm confused, why engine starts and pulls much better when yellows are not connected to lights like originally, why that affects CDI/Ignition? Also why they had connected one of the yellows to lights in first place? Both yellows go to regulator/rectifier, I'm still confused if that is full phase system or not:
I think that 7V AC is something like half, both yellows have 7V AC, so together that is 14V AC, both goes to rectifier and rectifier outputs 14.7V DC, so maybe that is why there is 7V AC, but then again I have no idea about these things. Whatever the reason, I don't think lights should of made to run from one of those yellows, that black with red stripe would of been correct one. Anyways it has been fine now after reconnecting lights to DC juice, cured also cutting issue by adjusting ignition 3.5 turns or so more advance, Chinese certainly do half products.
