I am very sorry this post is long and complicated, but I need to explain the situation to make it understandable and easy to understand. Alright, so, I am 99% sure that you might be aware that engine thermals are somewhat unrealistic for different vehicles? (T-series..) I hope? Lets keep it simple and talk about the T-Series, so I hold it to the floor, 2500 rpm, oil takes FOREVER to reach even 80F. Yes, it has more oil than a 2.5L 4 cyl diesel in a skidloader, but oil shouldn't take that long to heat up, if it is so desirably needed, I can record a video (eventually) of coldstarting my skidloader and showing you the oil getting to 100 F fast and easy, AT IDLE! Yes, its topped off with oil, yes the engine may be a bit older to have a bit more friction, but it doesn't take that long to hit 100f from about 65 F. When I work it hard right from 120 F and at full throttle it gets to 210 easy in about 1 min. and it won't get hotter than that unless I shut it off right away which is hard on the turbo, bake oil on to it, no goodie, bad bad. Anyways, 56 pounds of boost at 2200 rpm on the T series, it shouldn't take very long for the engine to heat up. To be a bit more on scale with the T series, I have an IH 1066 with the DT466, and I'll pull out on the road with 70 psi oil pressure at idle, if I let it warm up about 65 psi, then I go to full throtte 30 mph very little load, 479 hp at flywheel. It don't take 10 mins to get to operating temp, it takes about 3 1/2 mins... And I know the oil is hot too since when I go to idle after 3 mins on the road the oil psi dropped to 45 psi instead of 65 when I started since it is hot. Now for the cylinder walls, I assume the t series also has wet sleeve, but realisticly, where is the temp being logged on the cyl wall on the t series? I assume the outside where the water is, since it converts the heat to the water fast, but if your trying to measure the temp inside the cylinder wall, it should be a lot hotter, about the temp of the combustion, and should fluxuate from the intake stroke and comp then power and what not, but yes thats a lot harder to simulate I guess. Also if you let off the fuel it should drop too, since no fuel should be injected while you don't require power from a diesel. You have that simulated since fuel mpg goes infinity since you don't inject fuel, but that part of the thermal should be simed. For exhaust and turbo temps, turbo temp is off it starts at like 182 f, idk why. Also turbo temp is always hotter than manifold, is that because its in celcius but actually not or something? I can't think too good right now, sorry! Also manifold temp should probably rise a bit faster at idle, the 466 idles 650 rpm and itll boil water in about 3 mins, so 212+ easy. (I started it up to wash out the rad and purposly sprayed water on the manifold, yea bad idea but hey its fun? Friction: So the turbo has some crazy high friction, all of them seem to on all vehciles, is that supposed to be like that, if you idle any vehicle the rpm drops to 0 for the turbo, it should always spin at idle unless its an oversized turbo. I guess just reducing friction in the config to 0.03 its ok, but it might not loose boost as you want so that might need to be changed. And yes, I am an idiot and am abusive to my equipment sometimes heheehehe. But hey, nothing has gone wrong.. famous last words.
