Tutorial on how to convert the game's models to 3D printable 1/64 toy cars

Discussion in 'General Off-Topic' started by Marcus_gt500, Oct 5, 2019.

  1. Marcus_gt500

    Marcus_gt500
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    I was asked to explain how to do this, and got carried away with the screenshots, so here's a tutorial on how I do it. It's probably the wrong way and you'll have to be creative and patient! Also, this will produce a 1/64 scale, very basic model with no interior (unless it's an open top or you can make the windows with clear plastic). That's not gonna work for bigger, more detailed models.

    First of all, you need the carname.DAE file. The patch for finding it is on the screenshot. We will make a Le Gran on this example.

    2.png

    Now open blender and go to File/Import/Collada(DAE), and select the file you just reserved.

    3.png

    Now, the file will load the car with all the acessories, select the ones you don't want and right click/delete untill only the version you want is showing up. Also delete all the suspension bits and everything that protudes inside the wheel wells.

    4.png

    Now go to File/Export/Stereolitography(STL), and save your new file. Then open it on 3D Builder, chose mm on the upper bar if you want to keep sane, and click the wrench on the lower right corner to fix the file. When the red outline vanishes, save the file on the upper right corner button and close 3D builder. Now open the file in Meshmixer. It got to be all gray, if there's other collors, go back to 3D builder, as you didn't fixed the file properly.

    6.png

    Time for some research. Enter this site: http://www.igcd.net/game.php?id=1000010344, take the model name/year of the real car your car is based, search it's dimensions, take the width or lenght in mm and divide it by 64. In meshmixer go to Edit/Transform, put the car horizontal if it's vertical, and type your result on the axis of your chosen measurement. I recomend doing it that way instead of using the car's size on the game for your model to look right next to real car models in true 1/64 scale, like the M2 Machines, etc. It only backfired on me once, on the Picollina, as I used the Fiat 600 lenght and later noticed it's midsize betwheen a Fiat and a Beetle. Now that your model is properly oriented and dimensioned, click accept, then go to Edit/Make Solid, and use something close to the values on the screenshot. Your play factor is the offset distance, the highter the value, the thicker and stronger the model, but the least detailed it is. I usually use about 0.4. Also remember it will be about 1 or 2 print lines wide, so keep it as multiple of your nozzle size. (Here's a tip I've found out after doing some cars. If your car have tube or thin parts (Picollina's roof cage, Suburst/200bx's drift bumper, hopper's roll cage, etc) you can make a separate file, deleting everyting but this fragile parts, give this parts a bigger offset value, and merging this file with the car file on Tinkercad afterwards.)After clicking updade, it will look like this. Click accept, then File/Export, and save your new file. You don't need to save the project if it's done the right way first time.

    7.png

    Now open it with 3D Builder again, say Holy S*** that's a lot of triangles, avoid clicking the wrench now, it will freeze your pc, click the model and Edit/Reduce.

    8.png

    Reduce it untill it's lower than 150.000 triangles, than click ok, click on the wrench, and save when it finishes.
    Now go to tinkercad and import the file (upper right corner button). While it loads, let's talk about the axles. I use 0.8mm welding wire as axles, and wheels removed from other Hot Wheels cars. you can use paperclips, and print your own wheels. The thing is, now it's the time you have to know what wheels and axles you'll use. This is the basic wheel gig. It starts with a model representing your wheel (pink tyre), a axle tube with 4mm diam. and a 1.2mm hole in the center. You'll need to make some tests to discover the correct hole diameter for the axle to spin freely and have almost no play. The cutting cilinder over the pink tyre will be your tool to cut the inside of the wheel well (and the fender arch if you want to change it), it have to be a little bigger than your tyre and can be centralized on the tyre or a little upwards like on my case.

    10.png

    You'll also add some triangles fill the space betwheen the car and the axle. Use the ruler to copy this setup to the other end of the car without moving it sideways.

    11.png

    You'll position the tyres where you want them to go offset wise and edit the cutting cilinder to always cover the tire. Leave a little wiggle room betwheen the wheel well and the wheel so your axle will not bind. Here how it looks under the car.

    12.png

    Now, remember that the car is hollow, and you don't want any interior, so fit some shapes inside the body, when you merge them, they will become empty holes with infill, and this cars require low infill so you'll save material. If your shapes invade the wheel wells, your cutting cilinders will shave them. Also close all the cracks on the windows and thin parts that tends to appear during the Make Solid process.

    13.png

    Here's how it will look with everything merged:

    14.png

    Print with 3 walls, 4 top and botton walls, 15% infill, 0.12 or 0.08 layer height if you got a Ender 3 or similar.
    Clean up the axle holes with the cheapest 1mm drill bit you find on China
    And here's the finished result after some painting!
    Have fun and post your works here, I wanna see them!

    IMG_20191007_143831242.jpg IMG_20191007_143857313.jpg IMG_20191007_143909473.jpg

    Some other cars made with the same technique:

    71216930_2789499864416657_3096672919359586304_n.png 71654271_1375317109303849_1954290259474776064_n.png 70938965_518295218951019_5667417459712327680_n.png 71729278_674070253085128_6785851588113072128_n.png 70943070_901756660180451_2477921269064925184_n.png 70957439_521719358577471_2480489599378391040_n.png 71055352_682644038885061_3227387238241271808_n.png 71081183_2570390813249942_1597302640939630592_n1.jpg IMG_20191007_143933297.jpg IMG_20191007_143949915.jpg IMG_20191007_144004129.jpg IMG_20191007_144637256.jpg IMG_20191007_144716097.jpg IMG_20191007_144824896.jpg
     
    #1 Marcus_gt500, Oct 5, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2019
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  2. Camera2004

    Camera2004
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    Wow, they look like hotwheels!
     
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  3. Flippi 284

    Flippi 284
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    By “shapes inside the body” do you mean just fill the inside of the car with whatever or do they have to be in certain areas?
    And if I want to use wheels from beam on my model is there a special way that I need to do that?
    Also just curious as to what you use to paint the cars. Sharpies?
    (Sorry for all the questions)
     
    #3 Flippi 284, Oct 6, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2019
  4. Marcus_gt500

    Marcus_gt500
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    Put the model on the slicer, slice it and analyse the layers, you'll see it's empty inside with the interior and engine there. It's bad for roof support and you don't need the increased print time from the interior and engine. Just fill the interior and bay with random shapes the best you can, and this shapes will erase the interior and can receive infill inside, making it less likely to fail when printing the roof and hood.
    I didn't try converting wheels from beam yet, I use wheels from other cars or print the ones offered by Goodson Hobbies on Thingiverse.
    The cars are brush painted with craft acrylic paints and sprays, just spray the paint on it's cap and use a brush. Then finished with clear laquer, also brushed.
     
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  5. Flippi 284

    Flippi 284
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    MicrosoftEdge10_6_20198_55_31PM.png brown
    Model looks a little bumpy but for all I know it's supposed to be like that. Still not done placing the axle holders but for the most part it's done unless I did something wrong. Sadly with the way the GM was made the lights and grille don't really exist anymore so I have to freehand those if I decide to draw details in later on.
     
  6. Marcus_gt500

    Marcus_gt500
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    Nice! Was wondering if anyone would attempt it. Yes, it looks great, the bumps will smooth on the slicer, and you can further file and sand it when printed. The painted details are just pratice, I recomend doing some classics first since their lights are only circle dots of paint you can do with the tip of the handle of the brush or with a toothpick before going to the square light ones. I've painted the Legran yesterday, the headlighs were a nightmare. But turned out nice! I'll post some pics as soon as I borrow a camera.

    Also I'll like to see if the game's wheels are printable.
     
  7. Flippi 284

    Flippi 284
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    I actually found those wheels on Thingiverse, they were part of a Chevy Chevette model. I'll probably try printing some beam wheels later on but for now I just want something that's ready to go.
     
  8. Flippi 284

    Flippi 284
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    ScreenShot2019-10-07at55433PM.png ScreenShot2019-10-07at55616PM.png
    Should be ready for printing. Hopefully I can find some paper clips or metal wire but if not I have the tubes just in case.
     
  9. Marcus_gt500

    Marcus_gt500
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    The wheels will not roll with printed pins, I tested it. Find something you can dismantle and use as axles, for your sanity's sake.
    The underside looks great, should be a fairly easy print.
    --- Post updated ---
    Some new pics on the first post. And here's an engine printability test, that's what you can expect if you try to print a car without the bonnet.

    IMG_20191007_144020749.jpg IMG_20191007_144029764.jpg IMG_20191007_144047426.jpg IMG_20191007_144118557.jpg
     
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  10. Flippi 284

    Flippi 284
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    I now have the bluebuck and grand marshal in their final stage and ready to print. Hopefully I’ll be able to print both of them by the end of the week but I might just do one if I run out of time.
     
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  11. Flippi 284

    Flippi 284
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    1C185F48-590C-48D6-BBA1-0B672735AA9E.jpeg 36D9FE79-CF77-49E7-A751-9A1926794CD9.jpeg 6939A511-00D7-4E68-AFF7-21CBA03D8F9E.jpeg
    Still no permanent axles or paint yet but it’s mostly done
    Gm is missing a bit of its rear bumper but it should be fine.
     
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  12. Marcus_gt500

    Marcus_gt500
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    They look great! Good job! You kept the underside, Looks nice! Will try to keep it on mine from now on. I have a few more to post, just waiting on a better camera.
    Take some sandpaper and sand the area of the bumper smooth, do the same on the other side to make them equal. Will not be noticiable after paint.
    Or you can print just the lower part of the bumper, cut the one on the car out and glue the new one.
    What filament are you using?
     
    #12 Marcus_gt500, Oct 20, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2019
  13. Marcus_gt500

    Marcus_gt500
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    Got tired of waiting the new cam, so here's some pics with the old one.

    IMG_20191020_133552.jpg IMG_20191020_133512.jpg IMG_20191020_133500.jpg IMG_20191020_131734.jpg IMG_20191020_131721.jpg IMG_20191020_131700.jpg IMG_20191020_131648.jpg IMG_20191020_131425.jpg IMG_20191020_131417.jpg IMG_20191020_131403.jpg IMG_20191020_131348.jpg IMG_20191020_131339.jpg IMG_20191020_131327.jpg

    Also someting I've avoided doing for pushing you all to try to make the conversion for yourselves, but here it is:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3927836
     
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  14. Kasir

    Kasir
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    I wonder if it would be possible to make these but 1/18 or 1/12 and super detailed
     
    #14 Kasir, Oct 21, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2019
  15. Marcus_gt500

    Marcus_gt500
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    It is. Just follow the tutorial and scale it to your desired scale before the Make Solid process. Remove the glass and make it with clear plastic. You can slice it on Meshmixer to make it easier to print. Have fun!
     
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