This is my first mod. It's inspired by Dummiesman's mod for indestructible cars. I was really curious how it worked so I looked in the files, and I was surprised with how simple it was; in fact that was something I already knew how to do but I never tried as I expected it to be much harder. So I decided to make my own version (WITHOUT COPYING ANYTHING FROM THE ORIGINAL), that would work not only on official vehicles, but on mods as well. Over time I started messing around more and more with it and ultimately it evolved into this. It no longer makes the cars fully indestructible, so use Dummiesman's mod if you want it; however it's capable of making them really strong!
How to use it?
Select any vanilla or mod vehicle (note that it won't support every mod but should work on most of the popular ones). Go to the Parts Selector (Ctrl+W) and open the License Plate Design slot. Why this one? I have chosen it because it's universal, all vanilla cars and most mods have it, and it has the same Jbeam slot name in all of them, as opposed to the Additional Modifications slot which is named differently for each vehicle. In this slot you have to select "AgentY Car Values Scale Mod":
Note that if you have chosen a mod that doesn't have this slot, this mod won't support it! Once you've done it, go to the Tuning menu. Under the Chassis category, there are now some new sliders you can mess around with:
I'm gonna describe which one does what now:
- Overall, each value can be multiplied with 2 sliders. One has an upwards scale, usually from 1 to 100 and it's used to increase this value, the other has a downwards scale usually from 0.01 to 1 and it's used to decrease it. You can use them both and they will multiply, for example setting 25 and 0.1 will result with 2.5.
- Breaking Resistance Scale: Increasing this value makes the car more resistant against breaking into pieces, decreasing does the opposite. You can make the car weaker or stronger!
- Damping Scale: Don't mess with this one unless you mess something up and the car starts exploding. Then either increasing or decreasing this value could potentially fix it but it's not guaranteed. I added it only for this purpose.
- Deformation Resistance Scale: It's similar to Breaking Resistance Scale, but instead of breaking into pieces it's about deformation. Maxing out both this and Breaking Resistance Scale achieves a similar effect to the Indestructible Cars Mod, while by making it smaller you can create a rusty beater that breaks by just driving!
- Friction Scale: Increases or decreases the friction of the whole car, including the wheels. You can make burnout machines out of race cars or drag beasts with extreme grip out of drift cars!
- Size Scale: This makes the car bigger. Be careful with that as it's EXTREMELY unstable, you may have to decrease damping and stiffness to minimum before attempting anything! You can make your car up to 10 times bigger or 10 times smaller, but a lot of the times it will explode or break in other ways, making it completely unusable. It's just for messing around, not for actually driving a huge car. Editing resistance and weight accordingly may help but not too much.
- Stiffness Scale: It's just how stiff the car is, be careful because if it's too stiff at relatively low weight it will explode! You can make a jelly car if you mess with this and other values!
- Weight Scale: Simply makes the car heavier or lighter, that's all. Don't make it too light as it will have the same effect as making it stiffer (aka another explosion). You can make it really heavy but then it won't drive. It may also collapse under its own weight and create a black hole that destroys the universe (aka instability).Here's some cool stuff you can do with this mod:
Huge cars! (kinda)
Very strong and very weak cars!
Very heavy cars! (Weight pad collapsed oops)
So there are many possibilities overall. Read more in the updates section.
Also I added fire values:
This mod adds many configuration to all cars, a lot of them are weak rusty beaters but there are also other unique ones, here are some examples of my favorite ones:
- You will frequently get instability with it
- On some mods such as the Oldsfullsize most of it won't work even though they have the slot, no idea why
- It may break with game updates possibly because it relies on stuff that is outdated according to the even more outdated wiki
- Sometimes if you reset it back to default it will still break the car. If it happens just replace the car with another one and then load that one again (ctrl+r won't work). I hope I fixed it but not sure.
- Crash test dummies (no matter what mod) will always behave weird with this because all dummy mods happen to suffer from the same issue: having string values used in Jbeam which means they can't be edited and generally shouldn't work at all but they somehow do.
- This is my first mod so generally expect a lot of issues I don't know ofNEW STUFF IN UPDATE 2.0
This update enables you to customize the engine of your car! I call it 2.0 because it's now basically 2 mods in 1! It is a bit tricky and works differently than the rest of the mod, so pay attention:
- To start using the engine mod, opn the engine slot of your car. Make sure you choose the stock long block prior - all other blocks can and will conflict with some values of the mod, breaking the engine! If the mod you are using it on has no long block options, you don't have to worry about it.
- The mod works on the nitrous oxide injection slot. Since it can really mess up your engine if you don't know how to use it, I couldn't put these values in license plate design because if someone wanted to just change the chassis values and had a stronger long block equipped, they would unintentionally break the engine. Here's what you equip for it to work:
- THIS DOES NOT WORK ON ALL MODS, but does on all official vehicles. It works on MOST mods that have the nitrous slot available, but not all of them, or sometimes only for certain engines. Some mods don't even have this slot available by default but it appears if you have this mod installed. It also doesn't work for some mod engines for official cars. It all depends on how the mod creators decided to implement nitrous oxide injection in their mods.
- This mod behaves like your normal nitrous oxide system (you can remove the bottle if you don't want nitrous), except it also adds some new values for you to edit:
WARNING: THIS MOD DOES NOT SCALE THE VALUES, IT WASN'T POSSIBLE TO DO. IT OVERWRITES THEM, SO UPON EQUIPPING YOUR ENGINE WILL INSTANTLY START BEHAVING SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT (It uses the Pessima engine values as they are the most average).
That's why I added presets with already correct values for all official vehicles that you can start editing instantly:
Now to explain what each of these does:
- Exhaust values:
- Instant After Fire Coef - This is how frequently the engine causes exhaust backfire.
- Particulates - How much smoke is comng from the engine. If you set it above 1, it will be the diesel kind of smoke.
- Sustained After Fire Coef - This is how much exhaust backfire sustains after each single backfire, for example rally cars often have this really high so they backfire many times in short period of time.
- Main engine values:
- Engine Burn Efficiency - The lower it is, the more fuel the engine uses up and the more it overheats. 50% means that the temperature stays the same and it uses up pretty much no fuel. Above 50% isn't possible in real life, as the engine will use no fuel and cool itself down instead of overheating.
- Engine Dynamic Friction - It makes it the engine power increasingly smaller on higher RPM. In other words, keep it small if you want the engine to use all its potential to generate power.
- Engine Brake Torque - Higher will make the engine lose RPM faster when you aren't applying gas, but it also slows down the RPM gain. If you want a drag car that doesn't have to worry about corners, keep it low, but for race cars it's better to have it high.
- Engine Friction - Just reduces the amount of power. Same as with dynamic friction, keep it low if you want to go faster.
- Engine inertia - Determines how fast the engine gains RPM. It's probably the most important value here. Depending on the engine, you will need different values for it. Generally the lower it is, the better, but too low is very bad for the engine. It will shut down or even break completely if it's too low. So if your engine does it, just increse the inertia.
- Max RPM - It's the main factor that affects the engine redline, though there are other factors such as the RPM limiter. It determines how much RPM the engine can physically handle, but it doesn't affect how much will rev up to. Basically, keep it higher than the peak RPM of the engine (usually the redline displayed on screen) to avoid overrev damage.
- Overtorque resistance values:
- Max Overtorque Damage Rating - When the engine is in overtorque (generates more torque than it can handle), it will start getting damaged. This is how much extra torque it can handle before breaking completely. You should keep it higher than the peak torque generated by the engine, keeping in mind that things like intakes and nitrous generate extra torque that adds to it.
- Max Torque Rating - Basically the limit of torque the engine can handle before entering the state of overtorque. Realistically it should be close to the overtorque damage rating value. Again, remember about intakes and other things.
So these values let you edit the engine a little bit. But they have nothing to do with the engine power so the effect won't be big. Does this mod also let you edit the power? YES, but it's REALLY complex. If you know nothing about engines, don't even bother reading how or trying yourself, otherwise you'll end up completely messing up the way your engine works.
- Temperature resistance values: They are all pretty self-explanatory. When your car overheats, your UI will start sending you messages about various things in the engine breaking slowly. This is how much temperature these parts can handle before breaking. These values don't really have any real units, it's just trial and error to set them as you want. If you set them all to 0, you will get a half-broken engine like in the beater Covet. By messing around with them and the fire values from the previous update, you could potentially create a self-igniting engine or literally MELT the ebgine block.
TORQUE CURVE EDITOR:
- In BeamNG.Drive, the engine torque curve is generated by the game based on an array of RPM points and torque values assigned to them. Point 0 is always 0 torque at 0 RPM, after it there are usually between 9 and 12 points specific for each engine.
- The unit for torque is Nm. You can calculate the engine power in HP from the formula visible in the mod. In the game, power is displayed in another unit, which is really close to horsepower (about 2% difference) so you can still compare your cars to them, unless you make something absolutely ridiculous with so much power the difference becomes too big to ignore. Also rememer to take intakes and nitrous into account when calculating horsepower, you can compare in-game stats of configurations with different intakes to know how much extra torque they give.
- You equip the torque curve editor as a sub-slot for the engine values editor:
- Once equipped, you will be able to find it in the tuning menu:
- The default values are again these of the Pessima. So now you essentially have a Pessima swap engine. In the next update I'll make configurations with all default values for each car so you can start from there. For now just do trial and error until you get the car to drive how you want.
- When setting torque, again remember that intakes and nitrous add to this value. Especially drag superchargers can make a MASSIVE difference here.
- When setting high power, manipulating the final drive is really useful, in case the engine can't reach its full speed quickly or the full speed is limited by the differential.
- Remember to set the redline, torque limits and inertia properly so the engine doesn't explode from the curve you have created!
- For heavy vehicles that already have a lot of torque, your changes will not make that big of a difference, and they will struggle to gain high RPM (in some of them you need really high inertia or else the engine breaks).Intake editor:You can now customize your engine intake. Note that you should only do it if you know how to edit the torque curve. There are now 3 more options to choose as sub-slots:
Standard intake is for everything that is not a supercharger or a turbo. It works by adding extra torque on set RPM points, so it's basically an extra torque curve:
If the engine has a supercharger, use the supercharger intake override. It's less complex but can also add a lot of power:
Now to explain what each of these values does:
- Crank Loss - This is how much power per 1000 RPM the engine uses up to operate the supercharger. This power is lost so you may want to keep this value low.
- Gear Ratio - Works in a similar way as the axle gear ratio, but it's for the supercharger. Basically in this case bigger values mean more acceleration for the car.
- Pressure Rate - Affects how much PSI the supercharger builds up per second. It does not affect how much PSI it can make in total.
- Pressure per 1000 RPM - Pretty self-explanatory. More pressure = more power for the engine.
If your engine has a turbocharger (or a twin turbo) then... you will have a lot of stuff to customize, so get ready. I've split the turbocharger editor into
1. Main Values Overwrite - these are the most basic values of the turbocharger:
2. Turbo RPM points - the turbo has its own RPM, these values affect how fast it can spin. If you want a realistic turbo, leave them like they are, but you can also edit them and see what happens. These values don't affect the power of the turbocharger.
- Back Pressure Coef - This is the turbocharger equivalent of the crank loss. It affects how much of the pressure is lost.
- Damage Treshold Temperature - How much temperature the turbocharger can take before overheating damage.
- Max Exhaust Power - How much power the turbocharger takes from the engine exhaust. Bigger values will make the turbo more powerful.
- Pressure Rate - Same thing as in the supercharger.
- Turbocharger Friction - The turbo equivalent of the engine friction. Higher will lower the average power of the turbo.
- Turbocharger Inertia - The turbo equivalent of the engine inertia. Keep it lowm but note that too low will break the whole engine, not just the turbo.
- Wastegate start and limit - You should know what these do if you ever tuned stage 3 turbos in the game before. Bigger values = more boost basically.
3. PSI values - the turbo generates different pressure on each of the set RPM points. Here you can edit these pressure values. They directly affect the power added to the engine by the turbocharger. It's the turbo equivalent of the torque curve.
4. Engine RPM points for turbo - The turbo will affect the engine differently on each one of these points. If you are using the torque curve editor as well, set them the same as your engine RPM points, it should theoretically make it easier for the game to calculate the power generated by the turbocharger.
5. Turbo efficiency on engine RPM points - These are the most important values. They affect how much of the engine's base torque values at these RPM points is additionally added to them per 1 PSI multiplied by 6%. Formula not included because it's too complex. Basically if you want the turbo to add more torque at a chosen RPM point, increase this value for it.
6. Exhaust power on the turbo - These values are the same as the max exhaust power, but they vary between engine RPM points. The max exhaust power is multiplied by them on each point. So if a value is set to 1 at a certain point (which is common for newer turbos), the turbo will recieve the full max exhaust power on it.
As of update 3.2 you can also add turbos and superchargers to cars that don't have them:
It's probably the last major update to the mod. I'm running out of stuff I can edit this way lol. It adds the following:
- You can now equip a sound editor in the engine editor slots:
- When equipped you will see this:
There are 2 types of sounds you can edit: the unmuffled raw engine sound you will hear at the front of the car, and the muffled exhaust sound at the back. They can be edited independently. I don't think me explaining this all will do any good - if you know how it works already then I don't need to, if you don't then you won't get it from my explanations. Just read the slider descriptions and mess around with them, experiment to tell what exactly each one of them does. Just remember that this is very limited - it doesn't change the sound samples which are different for each vehicle, you won't get an I3 sounding exactly like a V8 from this.
- I also added 2 new settings for superchargers that affect the sound:
- There's a whole new extra section for turbos that enables you to edit the sounds:
These sounds are pretty quiet, turn the volume sliders up to really hear them and then mess around with them.
- Another unrelated thing I've added is customizable thrusters. New options appear after equipping the mod license plate:
There are 2 kinds of thrusters that come with the mod: the body thrusters, which should (but are not guaranteed to) apply thrust to the car's body (on top of the frame or the unibody), and the frame/chassis thrusters, which again should apply thrust to the car's frame, chassis or the bottom part of the unibody. For some cars both groups work, for others only one of them, and for a few cars (and most mods) none. Some cars lack parts the thrusters should be attached to, for example the Pigeon has cab and bed instead of a body, and also its frame is very narrow on the front, only allowing for the middle thruster. I also fixed the bug (?) with the reverse thrusters also activating the smaller spin one, I would be surprised if anyone noticed that lol.
In additon to editing the default engine and exhaust sounds, you can now change the sound samples to edit as well! The sound editor has sub-slots now:
Here's the full list of available engine sample sounds:
Now exhaust sounds:
- eSBR electric motor
- Vivace/Tograc E electric motor
- Old Autobello F4
- Current Autobello/SBR4 F4
- Automation F4/B4
- Old SBR4 F4
- Automation F6/B6
- Pigeon I3
- Vivace/Tograc I3
- Common I4 Diesel
- Old common I4
- Current common I4
- Vivace/Tograc I4
- Automation Diesel I6
- ETK Diesel I6
- Bus Diesel I6
- Current T-Series Diesel I6
- Old T-Series Diesel I6
- Common gasoline I6
- Unused V10
- Automation V10
- Automation V12
- Automation V16
- Gavril V8 Diesel
- Old common V8
- Oldest Bolide V8
- Old Bolide V8
- New Bolide V8
- Current common V8
There are no old sounds for the exhaust because well, back then the exhaust had no sound at all. Also the old common diesel sound was broken, and the unused V10 has no exhaust sound.
- eSBR electric motor
- Vivace/Tograc E electric motor
- Autobello/SBR4 F4
- Automation F4/B4
- Automation B6
- Pigeon I3
- Vivace/Tograc I3
- Common I4 Diesel
- Common I4
- Vivace/Tograc I4
- Automation Diesel I6
- ETK Diesel I6
- Bus Diesel I6
- T-Series Diesel I6
- Common gasoline I6
- Automation V10
- Automation V12
- Automation V16
- Gavril V8 Diesel
- Old Bolide V8
- New Bolide V8
- Common V8
There is also a flying car the mod:
How do you control this flying car?
Ok, now... How can you make a flying car like this yourself?
- First you have to make sure you have no bindings assigned to T, E and Y (most important) and also F and H if you want more control.
- To take off, you accelerate using T while in neutral or 1st gear (engine won't blow up, the redline is really high). Then after you pick enough speed, accelerate normally while still holding T. The tires will lose traction which will allow the car to be lifted in the air!
- Before doing any maneuvers, manipulate the T thrusters to level the car out. Otherwise you can lose control easily.
- Steering in air: hold E to roll left and Y to roll right. Get a good angle and you will be able to use T to turn.
- You can also use F and H to turn while level but it's really hard to control the car like this.
- To land you just need to carefully manipulate the T thruster and keep the car level using E and Y thrusters.
- Choose a car with a Nomi GTRX wing (not all cars have it available, but you can install the CJD Special Tunes mod to have it for more vehicles):
- You use the engine values overwrite mod (remember about the long block) and there's an option to put thrusters in there:
- You can also use the Nomi GTRX splitters, they will keep the car more level in air. BUT REMOVE THE FRONT LIP as it creates downforce so the car won't fly at all with it.
- Use as light and aerodynamic parts as possible. For example carbon fiber hood (not vented), aero grille, etc.
- Whether you should put a roll cage or not is up to you. It adds a lot of weight, so the car won't fly as high with it, but it also stiffens the car so it will make tight air turns better with it. So generally it's better for stunt flying but worse for relaxing flights (and landings).
- If you are unhappy with some of the steering you can always tune the thrusters in the menu (by default they are tuned how I personally like them):
Also in the mod: Engine swaps!
This new update lets you swap any in-game engine to any car the same way as you could manually edit engine values previously! Not only that, but you can also put any in-game engine tuning parts in it, and there are A LOT of them! Keep in mind that there won't be any visual change or weight difference, just performance.
You equip it the same way as the engine value settings, in the Nitrous slot:
It is recommended to detune your engine to the default factory setup first before doing this as some swapped parts might potentially conflict with the original ones.
There are many engines for you to choose, all ordered based on the size so you can easily see which ones are bigger, also all have their manufacturer listed. Bigger engine usually means faster car, unless it's a Diesel engine (I put the letter D next to the size to indicate that it's a Diesel one), then bigger just means more torque (more hauling power or whatever). You can use the Diesel engines on gasoline-powered cars and vice versa, the type of fuel your new engine will run on only depends on what the previous one was running on. So you can swap a bus or truck engine into any car (it won't affect the weight or looks, just the performance.) If 2 engines have the same size, the one with more cylinders will usually be better, if both have the same then a more modern one (It is indicated which engines are modern in the selection), if both are from the same era then I put 1 word descriptions like "sport" or "offroad" so you can see which one will be more proper. Also some engines are listed as SOHC or DOHC, for your info the DOHC ones are faster.
Here is the list of all available engines (it's very long idk if you can read it):
The electric motors are not really electric motors but normal engines that behave like them, you can still tune them and all. Also there is the cannon 'engine' available that can be tuned as well.
After selecting one of the engines a new tuning slots will appear:
In the engine management, you can select any rev limiter or ECU available in the game:
They are sorted by RPM limit and the non-RPM-based ones are on the bottom.
You can also choose any intake:
The carburetor intakes are on the top and sorted by the amount of carburetors and barrels, more advanced intakes are lower. If you want to choose an intake that won't modify the engine performance, choose the 1x 2-barrel carburetor for carbureted engines, generic intake for more advanced ones, and modern intake for modern ETKs and the Cherrier (it actually gives negative power because choosing it normally means you are getting rid of the turbo).
You also have all long blocks available in the game - not so many:
You can also choose superchargers and turbos independently from the stock intakes.
Superchargers are separated between classic and modern ones, of course modern are better:
And there are also all the different turbos... A LOT. Some were so similar I made shared "generic" ones instead of 2 separate ones. You have both all the factory ones and all the race ones. It is indicated which ones are meant for Diesel engines and which ones are modern (so better). Of course there are also the Hirochi twin turbos, and the Gavril T turbochargers meant for heavy vehicles that add a lot of torque but not much actual power.
With this mod you can now reach 6000+ horsepower using technically only in-game parts! Have fun!
New in update 4.0: Transmission swaps and full drivetrain swap system!!!
WARNING: READ HOW TO USE THEM CAREFULLY OR ELSE YOUR GAME MIGHT CRASH OR WORSE! YOU NEED TO READ EVERYTHING BELOW:
Transmission swaps are equippable in a sub-slot of engine swaps, this is kinda obvious:
As stated in the slot name, BEFORE USING TRANSMISSION SWAPS YOU MUST REMOVE EVERY DRIVETRAIN PART THE CAR ALREADY HAS. OTHERWISE THE DRIVETRAIN SWAP WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY OR AT ALL. These parts could all be in completely different slots around the parts menu. Here's a list of things you have to remove:
- PREVIOUS TRANSMISSION - YOUR GAME WILL CRASH IF YOU DON'T REMOVE IT!
- ALL DRIVESHAFTS / INTERSHAFTS - Look for them in the sub-slots of the vehicle's frame, front and rear suspension, and in all engine sub-slots too
- ALL TRANSFERCASES - Most cars don't have them as separate parts, others have it as transmission sub-slots, but cars with more than 4 wheels could have them somewhere else, most likely in suspension sub-slots.
- ALL DIFFERENTIALS / SPOOLS / SPLITSHAFTS - They are usually in suspension sub-slots but could be in some engine sub-slots as well. Usually they are next to the driveshafts.
- ALL HALFSHAFTS - They are luckly always differential sub-slots so remove the differentials to get rid of them. Some cars don't even have them at all.
Using the transmission swap slot is required to access the custom powertrain system, but there are also other cool things in this update that are new engine swap sub-slots:
- Sound Editor - I finally managed to fix it! It works the same way as before, it's also still accessible from the engine editor as well. All settings are the same as before.
- Radiator swaps - In case your car's radiator is too weak, you can remove it and put a new one from here! There are 6 types: Classic (basically only used on the bluebuck) Classic Alluminum (better Classic), Mechanical (old cars), Mechanical Alluminum (better Mechanical), Electric (modern cars) and Emotor (doesn't work yet, but emotors don't overheat anyway). For each type you have several versions for different engine types (any radiator works on any engine but they are the most effcient on their dedicated types), as well as Heavy Duty, High Performance Race, High Performance Drag, and Ultra High Performance versions for some of them. Obviously you can instantly tell which radiator you will need.
Now we can finally get to the transmission swaps... I think the smartest way to learn how to use them is to go through all the different transmission types.
- Oil coolers - there are 3 types: Internal (normal size, low effectiveness, low extra oil volume), External (normal size, medium effectiveness, high extra oil volume) and Radiator (big size, high effectiveness, but no extra oil). Generally Internal is the worst, External is good for race cars and Radiator (Is it inside the radiator? No idea) is good for big heavy vehicles.
First let's focus on automatic transmissions. Selecting one of them will give you these slots:
Gears amount is well, the amount of gears the transmission will have. You can choose between 1 and 12 gears. All of them will be fully customizable in the Tuning menu. Let's take a look, for the sake of simplicity I'll show 2 gears as an example:
For each gear, you can edit the gear ratios, like on the in-game race transmissions. You can also edit the high/low shift up/down RPM for the gears that it makes sense for (so not for neutral and not for the highest/lowest gears that would get you out of range).
Automatic transmissions also have torque converters. There are different kinds of them for different use:
Before we talk about transfer cases, let's focus on all the transmission typess first. The automatic transmission has several types:
- Bus - these ones are supposed to be used on buses, or other heavy vehicles with a low amount of gears. You can select a low torque ratio converter or a high torque ratio one.
- Drag - converters for drag racing. You can select a low, medium or high stall one.
- Normal - converters that you would find on a normal car. You can select either normal or high stall one.
- Locking - converters mostly for heavy duty and off-road use, but can be found on some normal cars too. You can select a medium or high stall version, as well as a heavy duty version.
- Semi truck converter - a specific converter for a semi truck, so a heavy vehicle with lots of gears.
Now let's move on to manual transmissions. They have the gears amount as well, but instead of torque converters they have flywheels:
- Normal - for all normal cars
- Advanced - for the most modern cars with ESC support and all
- Drag - for drag cars
- Race - for race cars
- Semi Truck - well, for semi trucks, what did you expect?
Basically, to put it very simple a lighter flywheel means that the car will be faster but the clutch will have more problem. Generally heavier cars will need heavier flywheels. These are all the options for them, self-explanatory:
(The heaviest one is only for ultra heavy vehicles with thousands of horsepower so you probably only have to use it on a few mods.)
These are the several types of the manual transmission you can select:
Another type of transmission is the Continuously Variable one. It has no settings because it has no gears, it's just like one long gear. Obviously this means low top speed and overall this is a terrible transmission for people who are too lazy to shift lol.
- Normal - for normal cars
- Sport - for sports cars, good for light vehicles
- Semi Truck - for semi trucks obviously, good for many gears and heavy weight
- Race - for race cars
- High Efficiency - good for fuel economy but terrible for speed, so the opposite of Sport
- ETK ttSport - special version of the Sport transmission used on ETK cars that is between the sport and race and doesn't need low weight to work well
There's also a Dual-Clutch transmission, not sure how it works but it has a dual clutch and the only setting is the amount of gears. Comes with a normal and race version.
And there's also a Sequential Race transmission, it's like manual but meant for the fastest race cars, no idea how it works.
The last option is something that I'm pretty sure is unique to this mod and you can't find it anywhere else: NO TRANSMISSION AT ALL! Basically the RPM goes from the engine through a custom zero-traction torque converter straight to the transfer case! How do you drive a car with such a weird setup? Here's the answer:
So yeah... That's one weird way to drive a car. There are 4 types of no transmission: with RWD, FWD and AWD transfercases as well as a straight front wheel shaft. But how does that work in this mod? You will now find out as I'm about to cover the transfer cases now.
- You have to use the ARCADE GEARBOX BEHAVIOR because the realistic won't let you shift as there are no gears.
- Turn off the parking brake and tap the gas slightly.
- The engine starter motor will actvate, and it will take a while to start - basically until it reaches the idle RPM.
- Once the engine starts, YOUR TRANSFERCASE RPM WILL BE THE SAME AS THE ENGINE RPM. If it's a 1:1 ratio, then the wheels will spin at the same speed as the engine RPM!
- The car will drive at constant speed with no input needed at all. You speed up by using the gas pedal and slow down by using the brakes. To stop completely use the parking brake, which will shut down the engine and you will have to turn it back on to drive again.
The FWD transfercase will put power to the front differential, and the RWD one to the rear differential. The rest are more complex, they work different in this mod than in the base game. Let's take a look at the AWD one for example:
To better see what each part of the transfer case is for, I recommend using the Powertrain Debug app, it makes using this mod A LOT easier. I'll show you what part is where and we'll cover all of them:
If this seems really complex to you, I'm not surprised because it is. I'll try to cover everything as well as I can.
Generally all powertrain parts I used for this system can be divided into 2 categories: shafts and differentials. (There are more in the game but I didn't use all types for the sake of universality.) Shafts are used to transfer the drive between various parts and differentials are used to split the power into 2 different parts with a given gear ratio. Now which of the selectable parts in the menu is what:
Well that took long to write, but now another long thing. You need to know all the different types of differentials in this mod if you want to choose the proper one, so read this carefully:
- The AWD transfer case itself is just a "father slot" for all the other slots and does nothing in itself.
- Front and rear output shafts are what they are in the powertrain debug app, they transfer the drive from the cnter differential to the driveshafts. You can select disconnectable versions of them, a disconnected shaft will stop working which is useful when you are stuck in a difficult spot when offroading.
- The center differential is what appears as the whole transfer case on the powertrain debug app. it's a differential that recieves drive from the gearbox and transfers it to both halfshafts. You can set its drive ratio either as 1:1 (like in a normal transfer case in game) or adjustable ratio (like in a race transfer case in game). I'll say more about differential types and settings later.
- Front and rear differentials are pretty self-explanatory at this point. They recieve drive from the driveshafts and transfer it to... Where? It depends, more about it later. They can also have either 1:1 or adjustable drive ratio (which in this case is called the final drive like on the in-game differentials).
- Driveshafts are obvious, they are links between the halfshafts and differentials.
- Now halfshafts... They are a mess. Before they got added into the game, everything was easier. The thing is, there are 2 kinds of halfshafts that depend on which part of the suspension will transfer the drive to the wheels. If it's the axle (like in most cases), then you will have to use the axle halfshafts, which also have an option for locking wheel hubs for off-road use. (Locking wheel hubs are like disconnectable output shafts but for wheels.) If the halfshaft itself is connected directly to the wheel hub which is connected to the wheel then you want to use the shaft halfshafts (which have a disconnectable option too). These kinds of halfshafts are usually found on vehicles that have locking wheel hubs as an option, so offroad cars, but not always and not on all of them. There's also another possible option, the wheels being directly connected to the differential, which was the defult before halfshafts were added. In this case you should better remove your halfshafts entirely or else you will mess up the whole powertrain. The worst thing is, you never now what kind of halfshafts you need, you just have to guess and get the powertrain debug app to check if everything is connected properly.
Also, for all differentials you can choose either a 1:1 or Adjustable gear ratio.
- Open differentials work like this: if one of the wheels has less traction than the other, it will recieve more drive than the other, because the differential will kind of find it harder to put the drive to the other wheel. If it's stuck in the air and has no traction, it will recieve all the drive, so a stuck car with an open differential can never get un-stuck. If used as a center differential in an AWD car, it can block 2 wheels from recieving drive when either the front or the rear of the car gets stuck. This is obviously the worst differential possible, but also the most common one for both the front and the rear of the car, it's cheaper than the other types and good enough for normal everyday driving.
- Locked differentials are the opposite of open ones: Both wheels will always recieve the same amount of drive no matter what. Well, not really, with enough torque it can kinda give up, but that doesn't usually happen. Using it as a center differential in AWD transfercase greatly improves the handling so it's a common thing to be used there. Standard locked differntials are a rare thing to be seen on the front or the rear of the car though, especially on the rear, because when the car slips and starts sliding uncontrollably, the symmetrical drive distribution makes it even worse and harder to stop.
- On some old race cars, race locked differentials were used in the rear. (with this mod you can use them on the front as well.) They could survive larger amounts of torque than standard locked ones. It was easy to spin out with them though so I guess that's the reason why they stopped being used.
- A welded differential is basically like a tuned locked differential. On some FWD cars they were used on the front, and are still commonly used on the rear of drift cars because it's easy to slide with them. They can survive more torque than locked ones but not as much as race locked ones. They are not used in the center because a standard locked one is cheaper and more usable for it.
- A locking differential is one where you can switch it between a locked and unlocked state. This comes in really handy for offroad cars, both in the front and the rear, as well as in the center.
- A limited slip differential (LSD) is a special differential that limits the slip, giving better handling characteristics than both the open and the locked differential. It does that by having much lower lock torque (preload torque) than a locked differential, but getting extra high locking torque proportional to engine torque (power lock rate) and extra low locking torque proportional to engine braking/loss of torque (coast lock rate). It's used on higher trim cars and sports cars both in the front and in the rear, it's practically useless in the center because it would always be locked anyway.
- The PlusTrak LSD is the LSD with a higher preload torque than a standard LSD, which makes it better suited for track use while also keeping normal road handling decently good. (No idea if it exists in real life or not)
- A heavy duty LSD is an LSD with the same power lock rate as the coast lock rate. Used on cars that often have to use engine braking, it's the second best option for an offroad car after a locking differential.
- A race LSD is basically the LSD with all of the mentioned parameters being adjustable. It's used on almost all race cars.
- An electronically locking differential is a locking differential controlled by the car's electronics. It's the modern fancy equivalent of an open differential. It's not used in the center.
- A sport active limited slip differential is basically the same thing except by default it's an LSD rather than an open differential. The locking criteria are also different. It's used on modern sports cars instead of the standard LSD.
- A torquevectoring differential is the ultimate differential that can put any power to any side at any time using some weird electronics and calculations. It's used on expensive modern sports cars. You can do some sick drifts with it.
- A race spool is like a race locked differential but with less inertia, also used on old race cars.
- A viscous differential is a fancy center differential that I have no idea what it does, it's used on modern low trim sports cars so I guess it's like a low budget locked one lol
- A viscous splitshaft is like a combination of a shaft and a viscous differential.
- The electronicallty clutched clutchex splitshaft is a more modern fancy version of the above controlled by the vehicle electronics.
- The rally clutched splitshaft is a rally-oriented version of the above.
- The single wheel shaft is an equivalent of the splitshaft for cars with a single front wheel like the Pigeon.
Well that was long... Now for the other transfer cases! Fortunately, they are very similar to the AWD one.
The 4WD transfer case is basically the AWD one with the addition of a rangebox. The rangebox lets you select a 2 times lower gear range / 2 tmes higher drive ratio than normal, really useful for offroad use. They also usually have disconnectable front output shafts by default.
The 4WD Crawler transfer case is the same thing as above except the drive ratio is 4 times higher instead of 2 times. It's extremely useful for rock crawling. It also has special clutch / torque converter stabilization so they can survive driwing in the low range.
The other transfer cases are the versions of the above for semi trucks. The RWD/AWD/4WD Short are for the 4-wheeled version, RWD Long is RWD for the 6-wheeled one, RWD dual will transfer the drive to all 4 rear wheels, and 6WD is like 4WD but for all of the 6 wheels, it will turn your truck into an offroad monster if adjusted properly!
The no transmission transfer cases are exactly the same as these, no difference.
Finally, that's all for the powertrain system, this took me hours to write...Now enjoy the mod!
Dummiesman for idk, inspiration I guess.
Felipe Maciel for Dubai Police skin (Update 2.0).
BeamNG for the Grand Marshal light bar used on that car.
You can use this mod for whatever, edit it, reupload modified version (but only on the forums and credit me) or even use it as part of your mod (then also credit).
Idk if I will update it, idk what kinds of values I could change yet, things like air resistance can't be modified like this.
Experimental Vehicle Global Strength, Weight, Size and Other Values Edit (WORKS FOR MODS!) 4.2
Universal mod for editing global physics properties of all official cars and most mods!