Development Screens (Each post contains a picture OR contributing post)

IT LIVES!!!

 

Try to boot it with the integrated graphics of your processor (to check if the GPU is dead).
Take out the RAM and gently rub the golden part of it with an eraser (clean one).
Try to use an old power supply and boot up the system.
Check whether your C drive is dead by removing it and connecting it to your laptop/another PC.

These checks should narrow things down a bit.

 

While they are all good ideas, especially for further testing once you know the general area the issue is in putting a case speaker in may be a quicker way to figure out what the issue is and doesn't require fiddling with the PC other than plugging it in to the appropriate motherboard header.

eg: http://support.asus.com/pcassistant/pdf/BeepTable_en-us.pdf
It will tell you if your ram/gpu/psu is functioning correctly or not.

Some motherboards will give you more info than others and all the manufacturers tend to use their own beep system.
You can see that MSI's is a bit different: https://forum-en.msi.com/faq/article/bios-beep-codes

 

Didnt know about that thing. Thanks.

 

i've found that most motherboards won't beep even if they have a case speaker if it's set to be in fast boot mode, so if he can access the BIOS he may have to set it to normal boot to make sure he doesn't already have a case speaker (my pc didn't beep until i turned off fast boot in the BIOS)

 

Then you can reset the CMOS of the motherboard to resort to stock setting which will disable fast boot. Perhaps you may be able to get away with using the MemOK button on an Asus board meaning that not everything is reset but im not sure if it will reset the fast boot setting to off or not. But it would be worth a try if you have messed with your mobo settings and you don't want to delete them all.

 

which only works if it defaults to fast boot off, some motherboards default to fast boot on (like mine for example)

provided whiteknight's pc can still access BIOS or it defaults to fast boot off then he should be able to test it

 

I've come to a conclusion, I'm not
going to even bother trying to fix it, I'm over computers I spend way to much money on them. So I'm giving away my old one and I'm not buying another.

I have better things to do anyway... I will still access the forums though my phone. I may make my beta group public so any other skilled members can finish off my work.

 

Making an H-series shortbus, still just planning out the proportions.

(imported from here)
Some as y'all fucking need it...

 

Probably the PSU. When mine died months ago it was because of heat from the added load after I upgraded my CPU and motherboard. After the upgrade it lasted about 2 days of overloading and overheating before dying. It didn't completely just die, something just happened to it that meant it could no longer handle anywhere near 500w of load. Unless I unplugged everything but the motherboard connector it would just shut off a second after turning on. (I think that's what happened anyway. Either that or it showed no signs of life.)

 

Oh jeez, I solute you. I would never be able give up and sell my computer.

 

Managed to find some time today for the del sol
Boot

Finished some proper acurate door jambs( for the roof and sideskirts too) and made the chasis three dimensional. Not acurate yet and the pillars need some work.

And bonus wireframe and polycount.

 

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You really need to work on basic vehicle proportions

 

Ill rework the body shape the best i can but thank's for the advice.

 

*** constructive criticism/mini lecture incoming ***

Consider how a car or any other product is made. Every part has to strike a balance between appearance and feasibility. Feasibility being costs to produce the part, how difficult it is to produce the part (closely tied with yield ratios), the lifecycle of the part, limitations of the material the part is made of, environmental responsibility, etc. Now consider the consumer side of things. Does this part detriment or enhance the product in any way? How much does it cost to replace or repair a part? How difficult is it to remove a part from this product? Modularity is paramount in a good product.

Take the rear door window of your car as an example. It's an interesting design decision and I've never seen anything like it before... for these reasons. It's impractical, since the shape of the roof and door means it can't be wound down. Since the c-pillar is moved from the corner of the roof to the centre, structural integrity at that point is compromised. A rollover or side impact would demolish that area of the car as it doesn't have the tension and compressional strength from the c-pillars. I can't see a seal or seam where the rear door window and the corner window meet, but that might just be because everything's black. A rubber or metal seal can be found around windows or their frames on just about any car to keep wind and rain out.
Also, the massive pillar at the back destroys visibility unnecessarily.

The front of the car is rather squished. This issue exists in your Prostreet as well. The hood/bonnet has a curious crease running down the centre, and the bottom is much higher than the rest of the car. This doesn't leave much room for the engine, accessories, and cooling system. This also increases the odds of injuring a pedestrian, since the force of impact is spread across a smaller, somewhat squared-off area. Due to shape and height, this design will likely run the person down, instead of scooping them up and over the hood/bonnet.

Be mindful that areas with lots of intakes, narrow indents, creases and other intricate features will become a moisture trap, meaning these areas will retain water from the road, rain, or washing for a relatively long time. Rust often appears in moisture traps long before other parts of the car.

The engine supports and crush beams at the front of a unibody car are not designed like a box. Often, two beams -one on either side- project out from the unibody, above the wheel well, following the shape of the fenders closely. Near to the transmission tunnel, two stronger beams (usually integral and spot-welded to the unibody) project out and serve to support the engine. A crash structure is bolted to the ends of these beams. All of these beams are then bolted to a radiator mount. A subframe is usually bolted below the unibody to support the suspension components. The lower strong beams should always be level with the floorpan to dissipate the force from a crash into the floor, instead of deforming the beams and destroying the front of the unibody. The floor of a car is usually made with very high strength stamped steel which is why it can deal with crash force quite well. The upper beams should join near the top corners of the unibody front, since the fenders need to be attached to them. Right now, your hood/bonnet and fenders are floating.

You should take into consideration the ease and cost of manufacturing and repairing that silver stripe running around the car. It looks to be a single piece of non-structural aluminium. How is it made? Is it easy to make, and if so, how much does it cost to make it? Take these examples for ideas. The Sideblade air intakes on an Audi R8 are removable, and one can be replaced within an hour. The Smart car's silver thing is part of the Tridion cell (unibody) and can't be removed for repair. However, by removing various panels and trim from the rear, bottom and opening the door, the silver bit can be sanded and treated without affecting the painted parts.

I hope the back of the unibody is incomplete, because there's no storage space in the trunk/boot and the exhaust, fuel tank, diff, rear bumper, etc has nothing to bolt onto.

Judging by the location of the front wheels and size of the transmission tunnel opening, the engine will be sitting right between the wheels. You won't be able to fit a steering system unless you fudge some trick pulley thing.

So. Many. Lights

As 6677 posted, please study and take notes about proper car design because the proportions of your car are super messed up.

Don't use 'It's just a concept; it doesn't have to make sense' because that excuse is for 2D media, where things don't have to make sense. Once you work with complex machinery with internal mechanisms in 3D, spatial organisation and efficiency comes into play. You'll learn an incredible amount about the inner workings of cars once you start designing them as they are in the real world.

Went overboard with the "mini" lecture, but w/e yolosweg.

 

There are a bunch of things that make it look quite unrealistic:

• Where's the back window?
• The headlights are a bit too big.
• LED lights would look better, also easier to model.
• You need to lower the bumpers and skirts a lot, and raise the roof line a bit. Also raise the wheels.
• The front of the frame looks a bit odd.
• Why is there an irregular white stripe behind the (I guess) rear doors?

The grille also looks a bit odd, but that's just my opinion.

- - - Updated - - -

Pretty much what I thought. Was too lazy to type so I made a list instead :/

 

I almost got your message, i couldn't understand what was it but i got a glimpse of it, ill concentrate on those things on my futuristic designs since i am very low experience in designing futurisitc cars because i am used to design classical vehicles. But if you could explain it to me with picture that would be very appreciative.

The Stryder Tiara was an inspiration i took from this car but the results were massive crap since i'm useless at making body lines and low experience at modeling modern cars and designing cars with extreme curves for now. Also i took also some body lines from the Gavril GV (I'm so unoriginal)


Also if anyone wonders why the car has ridiculous name its because i made this car for a girl that her name was called Kiara and she called it stryder tiara based on her name Kiara.

But hey! The model has a long way to go and i would be very appreciative with some constructive criticisms.

Took that part from an Audi R8

 

It looks like combination of Jag F-Type and Lamborghini Urus