Drifting is damn near impossible

i edied with windows movie maker

 

I did try using movie maker, but that gave me only blurred mess as an output, despite I have this custom profile made by some instructions found from net:

 

Thank you! I will try it soon.

 

What? I can drift a car just fine in BeamNG and I don't have a wheel controller.

 

Drifting is easier with gamepad than with a wheel as you can counter steer much faster with a gamepad. However drifting well is much better with a wheel because of better control, there is no finesse with a gamepad, in a way there is with a wheel.

 

just for others visiting this thread and are new to drifting in beam, try powerslide with sunburst rally first. if you use a map mod called beam mountains you can pull off som pretty crazy downhill drifts when you get used to it, then try with a slow RWd car and it will be a lot easier

 

Modern etk's are best for beginners. The i6's are smooth meaning it's easy to control and the ffb is smooth

 

V6 sport Legran,I-Series 3000IX,TTS2 SBR4 are the best drift cars for noobs like i started drifting from the I-Series 3000IX

 

With gamepad, without FFB those are kinda snap oversteer kings, really difficult.

There is no easier than a Semi, but H-series is kinda good too. Longer the wheelbase, more the mass, better it will be for beginner as everything will happen slower.

 

I guess I'm looking at it from a wheel perspective. Most things are 10 times harder with a controller

 

Catching slides with a controller is second nature to me, but then again I have 750 controller-played hours in the game

 

Sadly H-series seems to be broken at the moment, but drifting that with a controller is really easy, just put enough horsepower and map handbrake and clutch to same controller button.
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Kinda, but with a controller you can flick from lock to lock in split second, it is about 2cm in controller, trying to apply less than 50% throttle or 50% of steering is then harder.

Have you attempted to drift a Roamer? I find that too being easier than anything modern, but I'm curious if with wheel it would be more difficult because required amount of steering input?

If my wheel arrives next week, that will certainly warrant a test of drifting something modern, but anyway here you can see really bad drifting attempts of something that we could describe as a jello:

 

H series Stage 3 supercharger, RV upfit... That thing slides!!

Also the auriga heron was an unlikely candidate

 

How do you put in drift filters on a keyboard. I really want to try drifting but my XBOne controller died and I can't drift on keyboard unless its awd (and I think that's not drifting ). I repeatedly have to tap my left and right keys , but I spin out

Update: Found out where the filters are, here is me drifting in an extended T-Series Cab in Fujigoko, Ant thoughts?

 

I have been really impressed how the physics engine handles the skidding and sliding, it needs a few tweaks but here is a result of some tweaking the settings of the Full Size mod, skids pretty well tbh ? Really considering investing some proper time into the physics and mods on this platform atm, just been messing around for now.

 

Add diff locks and have it all locked, high pressure rear brakes, basic front brake pads, remove fifth wheel, those I find helpful, I don't know if my T-series drifter mod even works with current version of Beam, but you can always try, it has bit more engine power, but then again you might use T600 turbo:
https://www.beamng.com/resources/t75-drifter.2091/

Not that you would need as it seems you can manage to drift that default T75 just fine, but it might be more fun with more power and slideability I think I really should grab myself from the arse and update that mod of mine, there is so much changed in Beam.

 

I noticed that's it's WAY EASIER to drift with cars that have a soft suspension, narrow wheels, enough power & an open diff, like for example the Grand Marshall "Police"... It's funny how a 200BX "Drift" is not good at the thing it's supposed to do the best

 

Ive been stumped about drifting in this game with my wheel. Ive seen SlapTrain do it but he's really pushing the hardware to the limits. Its easy enough to e-brake drift with an AWD or FF, but FR and MR cars, forget it. The problem is its not clear how to tighten up steering so you only have to flick the wheel half a turn or so to get lock to lock. Any more than that and the gears start grinding or your thumb breaks off.

Last night I was messing around with the steering axis settings for the wheel and finally sorted out what does what.

I think the problem is the way this game handles wheel hardware; at the top of the mapping menu it has the wheel angle setting, then 2 dead zone adjustments. In other games you can use the wheel angle adjustment to set max angle turn. In this game you have to adjust the deadzone (end) setting by % of total tuning to get shorter throw.

So to clarify, you set the wheel's driver to 900, or whatever the max rotation is, same for the wheel angle setting, then set the deadzone (end) setting to something like 80-50% to get 180-450 degrees of wheel rotation lock to lock. 70% works good for drifting at moderate speed, when you still what a little drivability. It all comes down to personal preference though.





Did some tests after watching a few videos of drift lessons (Im not a drifter at all). They just say break before the corner then at the end of the breaking maneuver you turn in and hit the throttle to cause a weight shift which initiates a drift, then modulate the throttle to maintain it. Driving a MR car, I used a little scandi-flick right before turn-in to pull off a drift easily through a chicane with my wheel. I still need to learn to modulate the throttle, but that's another can of worms.

 

I had update types set to full updates, still has that, also I did now set update rate to 2000Hz, I did test most of the values and that was best, but only when I had 60Hz by vsync, if I set fps limiter to 100 and no vsync FFB was again bit sluggish.

Now, I must say that 2000Hz sounds a lot for cheap T150 wheel, I don't know if it really supports that, but 1000Hz was worse, 250Hz even more worse.

Biggest effect is how quickly FFB reacts to when catching slide, there is lot less fighting against FFB with 2000Hz than with 250Hz and less than with 1000Hz.

I don't have information of what hardware might be capable of, so I had to go just by test driving and feeling the differences.

I think that 200BX is maybe manageable if you are skilled and have good wheel setup properly, but I'm not, Moonhawk is so much easier. Maybe it is partly because with loose suspension you have more time to react and you can see what is happening.