Drifting is damn near impossible

One thing you might be running into is Signal Oversampling. If your wheel only updates at 100Hz and you are updating it at 2000Hz (for example) you are only picking up 1 out of every 20 signals. That might just accidently be lining itself up just right to make it feel better when in reality a much lower sampling rate could be the better solution... Granted... the only real way to know is to actually know what your wheel is capable of handling (I don't know what mine can do either)

 

That is what I was thinking, maybe it just happens to get rid of some feature of FFB which I find odd, that sticky feeling when you counter correct in attempt of preventing beginning fishtailing, not sure if that makes sense.

I did test pretty much all values and found out that 2000Hz got rid of that FFB stickyness which I had to fight against, but lower I did go, more and more sluggish FFB felt, with 2000Hz I got closest to AC FFB which is really quick to react.

I'm quite certain that my wheel can't do 2000Hz, probably 100Hz is much closer to reality. 100Hz is slower than automatic though, somewhere close to 1000Hz feels similar to Auto setting, differences are quite subtle between one setting next to another, but both extremes and middle certainly feels different, fast small movements are where I feel most difference and there is less of that turning wheel in syrup feeling at faster end, which might of course be because most of the stuff are skipped, who knows?

I would like to go lower on filtering values, but can't really go below 150 at all, sharp hammers appear, same kind that my pink AM export is having, but that does not go away unless I set FFB so that can't feel much else than syrup. There is something seriously wrong with jbeam of that export, so can't set FFB based on that.

 

lol poor shifter XD

 

I did want to test what @Ewanc wrote and as @alex hart has been mentioned modern ETK, I decided to try K-series as I like it having one of the best FFB in modern vehicles, well what do you know, I ended up to wall as always, but I did manage to slide half a corner or so:


If slow and useless moron like me can manage that, I guess anyone else can, IF wheel settings are good, in BeamNG at least defaults with T150 wheel were terrible bad, but adjusting and tweaking helps as always. Actually FFB does not feel anything even remotely similar now after tweaking than how it felt out of the box, that much difference.

 

Agreed... out of the box settings for my G920 were awful... granted, I don't think the game actually generates any settings (if it does I am sorry, had no idea) and that is just what the defaults are... after reading through that wheel settings page on the Wiki and spending the better part of 3 hours tunning (no joke) my settings... I got it to a point that I am ok with... more research needs to be done though as I know it can be better than what I have.

 

Im seeing that my drifts are kinda small using just the keyboard. I suspect its because my corrections are over-correcting, resulting in a loss of the slide, Is it just the technical limitations of drifting on a keyboard.?

 

well in my opignion keyboard is mainly for FPS game, it defenitly take a controler to play any car game

 

(Replying to Lespecialists post, dont know how replies work)
Well my controller broke so im down to keyboard only. If you have tried drifting with keyboard, what are your tips when trying to correct the oversteer?

 

There is something seriously wrong with all drift missile configs.

It does not matter which direction I turn wheel when in drift, both ways wheel is very sluggish to turn and I have to turn against FFB forces.

Grand Marshal Police Package works much better, countersteering is kind of ok in that, but Drift Missile config has very strong FFB against countersteering.

200BX is fine to drift at WCUSA docks, countersteering works by FFB really nicely, but take any of the drift missile configs and wheels is like in syrup both ways, there must be something wrong with those configs that needs fixing.

Broken ones are Drift missile configs of:
H-series
Sunburst
Grand marshal

Which I believe are all drift missiles.

Or then my wheel just don't want to work with those configs.

 

sorry i have no tips on how to properly drift with keyboard as i never used it for car game :/
--- Post updated ---

and that how you reply

 

just a video to show you that its 100% possible to drift (RWD) with g27 steering

view1


view2

 

Wow, gold star to me, didn't realize that the power cord on my wired controller was actually slightly disconnected. Should work now.

Heres me with The Shottys Sp-95 on Fujigoko with controller:

 

Some cars are easier to thrash around than others.
Get a car with wheelspin.
The Bruckell Moonhawk is good for this. Just take off and drift around by using the wheelsman

 

I feel like my FFB is lagging. I had an issue with what I thought was input lag on all my games, turns out it was just display lag. Fixed that and I've been able to drift any game, even ones that aren't very friendly to wheels like FH4. I agree the issue is very divided, about half don't have it and about half do.

Anyway, more on that FFB lag, from my experience of drifting IRL and in sim, the process should go like this:

If initiated with Scandi flick or E-brake: wheel should go relatively slack, may auto steer or require small flick, feel G forces to determine when to catch but wheel will probably slow down considerably by then

Initiated by mashing the go pedal: Should have to fight the wheel for a split second, maybe get understeer if you force it too hard, but then it will play out just like before, with the wheel going slack and maybe auto rotating until the catch point.

Pulling out of drifts: this is hard to describe because it really depends on the corner, but I'll say it now: BeamNG just can't gas out of a drift, it's not understeer that I run into, it's no matter how slow the car is, the weight still snaps the back end as if I were left foot braking too much, but it happens even with no left foot braking at all. But this should be a point where I need to fight the wheel.


Essentially, Beam FFB makes me fight the wheel when initiating drifts, which is the opposite of how it should be. And it is also wrong when exiting a drift, where I should have to fight the wheel, beam makes it go limp.

 

Here is a video of me drifting a big van on some tiny, bumpy roads with my newly purchased G29:


Now that we can see drifting is easy, I want to ask the devs something. Does anyone of you ever drift in this game? If so, how am I supposed to get the 200BX sideways AND keep it there? Why does the grand marshal have race tires? Is there any proof you guys have tried these configs? Am I disabled?

 

I used to drift a lower trim level 200BX with aftermarket wheels/tires. It isn't that hard, but my method of drifting is very weird because I use the brakes to initiate and slide with the front wheels pointed straight.

 

What I would like to do is to put this thing in someone's car who takes the car to drift track, then compare results to BeamNG and then it would be somewhat clear how things are:
https://www.kmt-telemetry.com/telemetry-steering-wheels/

I think every sim developer should get such device by the law, just because making science would be so much more fun!

 

The biggest difference here is the weight of the vehicle and the length of the wheelbase. The higher the weight and the longer the wheelbase the slower the transition... Give the T Series a ton of power and a solidly enough mounted rear axle and you would be able to slide that thing around no sweat. With really long wheel bases and high weight though means that you have to pan your transitions out further in advanced... This also goes for low grip tires as well, but not quite as drastically.

Low grip tires, high weight, long wheelbase... perfect for easy drifting. You just have to really plan out your transitions and corner speed to make things work. You know that though.

Drift cars are light, short wheelbase, and have high grip tires... plus downforce... this is all to enable high speeds, fast transitions, and control at crazy high angles. This means they are designed to be loose when gripped up to make initiation easier but have a lot of traction when sliding to keep the speed up. This along with the short wheel base and light weight make drift cars really snappy... anything over or under by the smallest degree means these cars will whip around on you like nobody's business.

A way to combat this (while setting up the car) is to stiffen up the front sway bar and loosen up the rear sway bar... this will make the car want to grip in the rear more and thus understeer. You will no longer be able to just turn in and initiate a drift, but if you have enough power, you should be able to initiate with a clutch kick and then keep your angel by modulating the throttle... the steering in a car setup like this actually won't do you much good in a corner which is kinda counter intuitive.

It is doable, just difficult. Like every other type of racing, the actual setups on these machines makes them difficult for mere mortals to drive. You won't expect to just hop into an F1 car, or a V8 Supercar and just expect that you could perfectly smash lap times with them right off the bat... well, it's the same with those drift cars... They are designed to transition at stupid fast speeds, so it takes some real skill to catch them and keep from going round on yourself.

 

I've been able to drift with a keyboard, albeit to a limited degree. The trick is a quick ratio steering because im using keys, obviously making the rear suspension hard, using a limited slip diff, but there's other tricks that help a lot too.

If you want JUST drifting, have toe in in the rear tires and toe out in the front. Also, like in real life, the cars that will drift by pressing the gas pedal alone are either 500hp+ sports cars or race cars made for drifting, or cars with 1960's old tires that have less grip than a damn bike... IRL drift is usually started by momentum and inertia, and the same applies in the game. If you have a softer suspension that allows for more weight tranfer you might be surprised at how easy and controllable some cars are to drift. Case and point, the moonhawk with a V8. You can also always clutch kick and quickly press and release the hand brake if you wanna make a quicker start. Albeit i am not sure if the tire physics changed since 2018, i recall always being able to drift that way. Just because the 200BX is a RWD japanese sedan doesn't mean its the only or the best vehicle to drift anyways. Another fantastic drift choice, although you need to know how to use it, its the civetta. Once you get used to the fact that it being MR means you wont be able to get huge angles, and that the MR config means applying throttle but not enough to break the rear wheels lose means you are getting traction when you dont want to, you will find out the weight balance on that car is almost perfect and the THICC front wheels makes it very satisfying to controlat low angles high speeds.

 

I have a g25, and when drifting up the Automation mountain I let the caster of the car do the work, use handbrake to initiate, then countersteer one full turn, let up the clutch and step on the throttle.