I dislike the stacks on the car. Should either be 4 into 1s or 4 in a rows... 2 into 1s is for 4 cylinders. Yuck. Change that, and you've got a pretty good start. I would suggest welding/chaining the doors shut and the hood and trunk. Will create a lot of strength. Should also make the bumper so that it doesn't have "factory" welds. Make it stick on solid. This car seems to bend in front of the a-arms and under the firewall. Those would be good places to put patches on the frame, or to run all thread rod from the bottom of the frame to the top of the hood. This car packs real nice in the ass end already, so it just needs to be welded/chained shut in the trunk to make it a little tougher. You could tuck the trunk in and give it a foot of packing space, or you could notch it about 30 inches from the rear bumper to make it fold nice.
>v > I'm back, babeh. Now, to answer some questions that have been asked as of late. (Like, in the last few months.) As for the graffiti for the sponsors, I haven't mapped anything yet. Still kinda in the process of getting all the materials and modelling done. I'm picking up where I left off almost six months ago. "Welding" the doors shut is something I haven't exactly figured out to do here. Even though this game has life-like physics, there are some things that soft body just won't do due to the limitations of the engine itself. I will however, figure out a way. Somehow. And sure, I could add all sorts of beams and bars and cages and whatnot, but bear in mind, they all need jbeams. I haven't the foggiest idea how to make jbeams or any of that hot mess, and if someone would like to, by all means. I can work with others. In fact, I encourage it. ----------------------------- This demo car is just my first "real" attempt at getting something in the game. I've got a model that I'm painstakingly working on, though there is someone I need to contact first to see if it would be an issue, since they're working on the same KIND of car, but a different year. Don't rightly want to step on anyone's toes, y'know? I've got a lot of work to do on this demo car, but as soon as I get the materials and stuff figured out, I -will- be releasing a BETA version for bug testing. stay tuned for further updates!
to "weld" the doors shut, (or at least the simplest, least time consuming way) is to go into the "Doors" jbeam file, find the Left and Right "Temp Latch" and "Hinge L+R" lines, and modify the "deform" and "strength" and bump them up...On my covet, I use around 150,000 for deform and 200,000 for strength. I would think the higher you go, the more effective it is. This does not keep the doors 100% attached to the frame of the car, just where the latch and hinges are. For example, during an 80 mph "offset" crash, the door stays attached to the car, but along the a pillar, the door itself deforms differently than the actual fram, however the door IS still there and doesn't flop around and fall off. It takes quite a bit of abuse to rip the doors off my Covet and I feel the values I modified are pretty conservative. Try 999,999 and 1,000,500 for deform and strength, respectively. edit If you are a total, complete noob with jbeam, open the doors jbeam file with notepad in the "fullsize" folder. Next, hit Ctrl+F and in the "find" dialogue box, type "latch" (without quote marks) and make sure "Down" is selected (instead of UP). Hit it once, and it should show you the beginning of the Latch code. Under that you start to see different values. This is the first bit of latch code you need to modify: {"breakGroup":""}, //--FRONT DOOR LATCH-- {"beamSpring":2251000,"beamDamp":250}, {"beamDeform":38000,"beamStrength":52000}, {"breakGroup":"fullsize_doorlatch_FR"}, ["d14r","p3r"], ["d14r","p4r"], ["d14r","p5r"], ["d6r","p3r"], ["d6r","p4r"], ["d6r","p5r"], The values I Bolded are the ones you need to change...and since this is a big 4 door car, there is Doors F and Doors R files for the door jbeams. These bold values are the ones I find to do the trick with holding the doors shut. They are 38,000 and 52,000...To me, pretty low values. I find that changing them to 150,000 and 200,000 keeps the doors very solid. Also, note that this code is foor the "FR door". Control F again and find the next section, and make sure that the values are for FL door. Do the same thing the rear doors in the "Doors R" file. A little confusing, I know, but I would be willing to help out with this kind of stuff. I changed a lot on my own personal covet values and can keep the trunk, hood, facias, even the fenders, all solidly attached (fenders are a little more in-depth since there are multiple attach points and not just 2), as if they were welded. Let me know if you have any questions Id love to help out, this is a cool mod.
If you could figure out a way to remove door seams, hood seams, and trunk seams it would simulate a weld pretty well and would also increase the overall rigidity of the car.
