Just be prepared to fail, you may pass but it is a very well known fact that they fail people before they even walk in the door. Generally to get more revenue & fill a quota, also being a young male its a larger possibility. Even if you do the drive correctly they could still make something up & fail you, first time I went for my P's they failed me for "making an illegal maneuver". The guy said "You weren't close enough to the gutter when you turned left"
Yay! Then you can enjoy dealing with Australian policemen! And speed cameras everywhere! I rage a lot about what our California brothers in "arms" have to go through, but when I think about Australia I realize just how small-time California really is.
luckely for me, driving in the Netherlands is only expensive, really ****** expensive. And the roads are a bit boring or crowded with stupid slow people and suicidal small van's like the VW caddy.. Oh and I forgot the egocentric way of driving, it looks like the motto here is ' I don't have to brake, and you can, so why should I wait? ' like driving in the left lane when there is space on the right, or cutting you off(we drive on the right side)
I doubt it will make any difference to my result but the instructor that I have now knows my dad from way back because he was into the drag racing scene and classic holdens. (HD,HR,EH, Monaros and Toranas) If you are/were into the drag racing scene in SA there is like a 90% chance that you would have seen my dads car racing at Virginia, Whyalla and sometimes over to Victoria for Calder, Mildura and Heathcote and likely that you or a friend would know who he was. He still races an orange LC Torana with a 202 and triple weber carburetors that used to run high 9's with 150hp of nitrous. Not really the place to talk about modding, but in the future i would like to replicate my dads car and make it similar to his Torana using the cars from beam and making some custom stuff. Anyways, I feel like I will pass the VORT test on either the first or second try, still have a couple lessons before i go for the VORT anyway so the dude will teach me what not to do/to do for the test to make sure that i am a "safe" driver. When I went for the first lesson last week he said that my driving was fine even though it felt crap from it being a new car that had a wierd seating position, no feedback and the feeling of a massive blindspot, he didn't correct me on anything except telling me to accelerate faster and to not speed when i was like 2kmh over the limit of 60 The hazard perception test is apparently really easy and most of my friends passed it first go. Seeing as you can practice as much as you want on the RAA site for free their isn't really an excuse for no passing the HPT first go. Personally i am not too worried about the speed cameras. I am not one to speed, as it doesn't get you where your going any faster and can sometimes pressure other people and make them uncomfortable. The cost of a speeding fine and my laziness/lack of motivation at the moment to find a job will make sure that i don't speed. The cops usually have a reason for pulling you over and the fact that all of the media and cop show that portrays them asmoney hungry/revenue raising a**holes doesn't help. This doesn't apply to the dickheads with the speed cameras that ping people for going under 5 kmh over the limit, they truly are assholes and deserve to be slapped. Find some drunk idiot or someone on their phone to fill your monthly quota not someone who is doing 62 in 60 zone that apparently "endangeres" the lives of innocent people from going 3% over the speed limit.
the ep3 has twice the power you do, no miata will ever be fast with the stock engine breathing naturally, just not that kind of engine. 5k is a lot but would you rather be paying the bank every month? I just had a corroded machine screw fry my main fuse yesterday while in town, had to walk a few miles to the parts store for a new one in freezing weather, and I wouldn't change it for the world. you know what I'm talking about. in the states the ep3 had a nerfed k20 with 160bhp or so. come here if you want to beat up on ep3s.
While driving home from work today I got overtaken by a 1992 nissan sentra with a fartcan and a ricer wing.
My clutch master shit the bed around the corner from my house a few months back, and I was dangerously close to lighting it up and claiming insurance. While I have the knowledge and competence to troubleshoot and repair basically anything on that car, I have neither the time or patience. I've dumped around $10,000 on MX5 including purchase price when I could've bought my mate's unmolested (aside from a Gruppe M intake), trouble free EP3 for $8,000. I'd have my DRZ by now had I picked the Civic.
Hell yeah it is. I dailyed it for a few weeks and the anxiety of being stranded just disappeared. Didn't have to pop the bonnet once. Best car I've ever "owned".
5AM. I get woken from my bed by a loud, constant blare. Realize it's my horn. By the time I get the manual and figure out which fuse to pull, it's shut up on its own and started refusing to honk at all. It wasn't from the battery going dead because the car still fired right up. It wasn't from the fuse blowing because everything else on that fuse still worked perfectly 'till I pulled it. Really car?
So I found some old pictures I once downloaded and came across this stunning 1974 Cadillac Fleetwood Talisman. Colour is called 'Victorian Amber Firemist'. Couldn't resist to share. Those seats look comfy as hell
How cold was it outside? Sometimes the connectors will freeze together. That shouldn't cause any permanent damage though, so it may be something else, or it may just be that being on for so long is what broke it.
Probably in the single digits, Fahrenheit. Still pretty cold, horn still refuses to honk (but there's an audible click every time I try), I'm idling it now; when I actually go shopping I'll see if it's minor enough to be fixed by radiant heat from the engine. I know it can be pretty goofy in the cold, but never this goofy before.
You should probably check the wire inside the horn fuse, which looks like a compressed sideways S. If you see a break or something, that fuse is blown. If the fuse is working, something could've shorted out in the horn cable. You should get those multimeters, pull the fuse for the horn, and connect both cables into the holes the fuse fits in. If you get no reading, that thing is probably shorted out. Or just watch this video:
The amount you think you know, the amount you think you know that others don't know, the amount others actually know and the amount you actually know all seem to be imbalanced. Particularly when the fuse was addressed and the possible cause is far more obvious --- Post updated --- Horns have a brushed DC motor within and not one designed for prolonged running. Very possible it was burned out. Very possible a wiring short somewhere though poor old Benjamin's method of finding it is pretty much wrong
