Turns out Windows was never corrupted, it was just trying to boot into another Windows partition (the one that no longer exists in my SSD), so everything works now. But, I couldn't get the motherboard cable all the way in, it's probably 1/2-1mm short. Is this a serious problem? It works, but I don't want to take any chances.
Sometimes they require a little bit of force to push in properly (obviously not so much you will snap the MB). However, if you can't get it in correctly then yes, since it could come loose and cause an arc and all sorts of other stuff that your MB will not be too fond of (assuming it survives).
The motherboard was flexing a good cm or so, I just don't want to break it or take it out of the case. Is there a way to push the cable in further?
I've been researching why my 24 pin connector won't snap in, and it seems to be a very common problem with Corsair PSUs. There were many fixes, including 1. More force (done) 2. Looking for bent pins (done) 3. Plugging and unplugging multiple times (only one of these) 4. RMA (not going through that again) 5. Ignore it (connection seems strong enough)
I keep checking updates on my phone, for Android O. Even though I know it won't come anytime soon haha I did get 7.1.1 a few days ago though. I hope I actually get Oreo, since there's a few battery-improving features and at this point i couldn't be happier with my battery life. 8 hours screen on time a day is great.
I have the same problem with my 24pin the problem for me is that as soon as i move it it loses connection so i now have to leave the case open so it wont get bumped
I have no clue but it doesnt sound like a good idea because what is when you want to remove it at some point?
The real question is: Should you use a dual PSU setup? The answer is 100% no. You absolutely can, but you absolutely shouldn't.
Well I'm starting to get really pissed off. I just lodged a piece of paper under my motherboard trying to get some support to push the cable down, and now it's stuck. I'm thinking the only other option is a rebuild now. Well, I need to upgrade my CPU soon anyways now that I'm getting much better at 3D modelling and modding. I was going to get an I5-6500 this Black Friday, but I might as well just get a RyZen build. The RAM I have now is compatible with the motherboard I'll get, and a RyZen 5 1400 is more than enough for now.
Anyone know if the Cooler Master Hyper 103 is a good purchase? Looking for something cheap, quiet and cool. As compared to my AMD heatsink - which albeit being cool with my three case fans is really very loud. Don't have much budget here - this is in the perfect price range.
I had a CM Hyper TX3 which is the older version of the 103 ( correct me if I'm wrong ) cooling a core 2 quad and it did a fairly well job but it wasn't exactly silent.
Still gonna be quieter than an AMD stock cooler though. The sound mine makes is actually annoying too, and you can't just let it sink into the background. It's always there. Is the Hyper 212 quieter?
Which is better, a RyZen 3 1300x with an A320 motherboard or a RyZen 3 1200 with a B350 motherboard? Or even a RyZen 5 1400 with B350 motherboard?
Yes, the 212 has a 120mm fan as opposed to the 103's 92mm fan, one thing to keep in mind is that the 212 is a tall cooler.
The B350 chipset allows for overlooking, the A300/320 does not. Ryzen 5 has 4 cores and 8 threads, Ryzen 3 is 4c/4t. Go R5 1400, B350, Hyper 212 Evo if you can. The 1400 is a 65W CPU, so a 212 will be more than capable of cooling it even with a "max" overclock. Source: my Ryzen 7 1700 at 3.9GHz doesn't reach 65° with a push/pull configuration 212. --- Post updated --- The Hyper T4 is like a mini 212. Literally. It's a 120mm cooler, but is physically shorter. I was able to fit a T4 in a friend's Thermaltake V3 Black Edition (atop LGA 1366), so if your case is 190mm (7.5") wide or wider, it'll fit like a glove.
