Travel back in time and hinder yourself from fucking your anckle, wich will lead to you not having fucked your ankle, wich will lead to you not travelling back in time to unfuck your ankle, wich will lead to your ankle being fucked, wich will lead to you traveling back in time to unfuck your ankle... You get the idea, don't you?
Just keep hitting it with something sharp. Eventually, given enough time, you wont have an ankle to be fucked.
YAYYAYAYAY. the bulb for the 42 inch tv arrived. and the tv WORKED. so now i can play beamng on a 42 inch tv!
Nope. I have this one. I use a tape cassette aux thing. Will be getting some sort of aftermarket receiver eventually. My heart says yes but my bank account says no. https://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/5045802555.html
Do you notice any drop in sound quality with the cassette aux adaptor? I've heard they aren't very good.
Gone through 3. First one broke after about 2 weeks. Wire related... Second lasted all of last summer, works fine in the Ranger, but wouldn't work in my Grand Marq so I bought another one for the Merc. For sound quality? Modern songs (post 2000) have to much gain thanks to the "Loudness War" and clip at higher iPod volumes. If I lower the iPod Volume I can crank the Receiver volume with no clipping. Have to find the balance of Receiver to iPod volume. Take two clicks out of treble and add two to bass and then put the iPod on Rock Equalizer and it seems to be a damn good set up. I have my Klipsch speakers in my room and honestly the car doesn't sound that bad at all. Needs a sub. Found this for sale... https://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/5033491047.html
Re: General discussion chat Yup 7.3 they are slow in stock form with just a chip,exhaust cai (around 325-350 RWHP) but once you spend a few pennies on them they can "keep up" with most "modern diesels"and still be reliable at that. I had a 7.3 with 309,000 miles with that same exact combo I stated purchased everything though Swamps Diesel in TN loved the truck but it was time to move on I tow 10-15K everyday so it needed a "slight" hp bump. The truck was sold and I purchased a 08 6.4 with 269,000 miles then purchased a single non vgt billet S366 setup and its around 675 RWHP on stock fuel/stock trans/stock bottom end. 6.4's are known to crack pistons and the rockers tend to give out at around the 150,000 mile mark and that's really the only problem 6.4's have and (that's what gives 6.4s the bad rep they have gained). Once you put in some international delipped cut/coated pistons and new rockers 6.4's will last for a very long time but again cost money to fix. The factory problematic pistons that come with 6.4's from factory was ford's design so that the 6.4 could meet the 07 EPA LD diesel standards. to me all the powerstroke development was rushed so they could be "the first one out with a new engine". 6.oh no's always blow head gaskets if not studded and maintained correctly and if not caught in time can blow EGR coolers and they can have hot start issues if the dummy plugs pop out of the oil rails and or the STC fitting on the HPOP on 05-07's don't get changed out with the updated version and cost people way to much money to fix and that it was gave the 6.0 a bad rep. (6.0?) "cab up on a Tuesday" lol.
Well, I found the old 0.3.7.5 backup download and I have to say that I've noticed a lot of differences compared to the most recent version. 1. The cars feel like they want to slide around a lot more in the older version. I think this is due to the tire model improvements. 2. The new UI is a lot easier to use than the old one. 3. The lag for the T-Series is worse in the older version. 4. The way the cars look when they crash is a lot better in the newest version. Just something I wanted to point out, probably not helpful to anyone, but it does show something: in just 4 months the devs have majorly changed the way the game works.
Thats not how the "loudness war" works. These days it is very common for music to be heavily compressed (Nothing to do with filesize compression). This means that modern pop music is mixed so that it stays at around 100% of the availible volume throught mostof the track rather than having lots of dynamic range which is typical of styles such as classical. So as this image shows you are just ensuring that the quiet sections are made louder. You would then use gain reduction in your compressor to make up the difference so that the compressed copy is of the same volume level as the uncompressed copy despite the compressed copy sounding louder. Measured volume and how loud something is are two different things. There are lots of very good reasons for doing this these days: Lots of people have low end speaker setups including laptop and phone speakers not to mention all of the people using the headphones included with their apple devices, compression will help music sound better on them. Lots of people listen to music in the car. Compression really helps music sound better in the car because it helps to ensure that road noiseis not an issue. Radio stations actually take the already compressed music and compress it again before they transmit it to ensure that it will sound as good as possiblein loud envirnoments such as in a car. Stylistic reasons. For many types of music compression is used as part of the style. For example in house it is fairly common to use something called sidechaining to use the kick to compress white noise in the background, this means that every time the kick plays the white noise will become quiet. This helps the track to bounce with the beat. While compression can be and has been overdone in the past these days it is done fairly well usually. If you are experiencing clipping it is not because of the "loudness war" its because something in your audio chain is a weak link, probably the cassett aux input since cassett is a fairly old technology. If the clipping was because of the song in any way then you would hear it on all speakers as the clipping would be part of the file itself. If that is the case then the song was poorly mastered or you have a bad copy of it, neither of which is related to the "loudness war". The loudness war is based around the use of compressors and limiters in the mastering process of a song. Some people say that they dislike it but in reality the vast majority of people prefer it since things tend to sound better when they are louder. wow, i did a 6677 on a touchscreen keyboard...
Re: General discussion chat I don't know why they ran with the 6.0 as long as they did. My boss owned a 08 6.4, was driving with high EGTs, didn't pay attention to until his turbo caught fire. Replaced it, a month later found a bunch of diesel in his oil. Had a runaway, melted pistons lol. Needless to say, I will never trust a post 03 Powderstroke. I got a 00 5.9 with 250,000 on it. Besides the tranny at 180,000, never had a problem(knock on wood). I run an Aurora 5000 single, Edge, Fass 150, injectors, etc.. and have for the last 70,000 miles without an issue. How do you like that S366? Curious because I have great top-end with my turbo, but soooo much lag lol
I have my headphones plugged into a 100W amplifier right now. They sound amazing, but everytime I get the volume up just a little bit, I feel like they'll break.
Power thankfully isnt forced through a circuit, its drawn. A 75W load on a 100W supply will only actually cause the supply to give 75W to the load. My headphones are marked 1.5W, connected to a 100W amplifier they will not be subjected to a full 100W. Although There are probably other things that might cause them to blow, dunno if those amps run at a higher voltage or something? That would probably be a problem. I'm not an audio guy but I do have some electrical knowledge at least.
So far I've noticed that there's a few "sound bugs" coming from the headphones at higher volumes. I don't really need the headphones anyway, but I'd like to keep them because I think that they sound better than my speakers.
I think it is just a case of more watts means you can go louder. So dont turn the volume up very high since you dont want to break the headphones or your ears. The volume control is probably just an adjustable resistor (pot) wired as a potential divider so lower volumes mean you get less wattage out. Higher impedance headphones require more power, so you would need to use an amp with them to get the signal to be strong enough to power the drivers in the headphone. Most headphones tend to be around 30ohms but i have seen as high as 600 on some high end pairs. The concept is the higher the impedance the less hiss you will get in the signal since they will be less sensitive to it. So you should get a cleaner audio signal with high impedance headphones. So that is where the extra wattage would be useful normally, but since you will be using headphones with low impedance it will just translate to very very loud volumes for you.
I don't mean the hiss. I mean some weird sound that I get every once in a while. I can't really describe it.
