So I invested in a 1/10 scale Traxxas Slash (2wd) over the summer. I mainly have spent time making the rear tires racing slicks by driving aroud my dorm's common space. Anyone else have a hobby grade RC that they have put money into? What have you done with yours?
Bumping this thread. Just got this on ebay. A second hand traxxas slayer. Aftermarket shocks, links, sway bars and brake kit on it. SC10 wheels. And an electric conversion mount where nitro motor went. Got turnigy trackstar 1/8th motor+ESC combo on the way (along with new radio and battery as existing gear aint adequate, plus a choice of pinions). Actually that should be here tomorrow. The entire nitro drivetrain remains intact including the overrun gear on the transmission input. This means the motor spinning backwards will cause free spinning and wont engage the transmission, the motor braking would still allow the transmission to carry on running forwards too. This has the 2 speed automatic from a later model slayer installed with the manually engaged reverse, so I've had to order a new radio in order to gain a toggle switch for the reverse servo. It has a simple splitter cable in already to run the ESC and the old throttle/brake cable in parallel, the ESC will have its reverse disabled, uprated disk brake still works. I have tested this setup with another ESC+motor I had laying around and that works fine, and the reverse gear connected to the steering channel, yeah, hold steering all way left and the gear shifted to forwards, all way right and it shifted reverse, pull throttle trigger and ESC span motor (that wasnt attached to truck), push throttle trigger, ESC span motor backwards (actual ESC I'll put on truck will have reverse locked out so would just brake at this point) and the brake servo on the truck engaged. So essentially I am going to have a very heavy (estimating 4.2kg) 1/10th short course truck with a 1/8th motor, 4wd, manually engaged reverse and a proper mechanical brake rather than relying on internally shorting the motor. As a closely related side project. Also ordered some sensors. Gonna rig a microcontroller up to read the speed of the driveshaft and an accelerometer to detect burnout and brake lock conditions. For now it will only signal these conditions with some bright LEDs I'll stick on it, a future variant of the system will then tap into the signals sent to the ESC and brake servo and act as a genuine anti lock brake system (due to the slow responding nature of the mechanical brake, rather than backing off on brake torque, I'm gonna boost the ESC torque)
inb4 "stop bumping" Nah I need some RC cars, I've heard the traxxas ones are really good, I guess I need to save up and get one. The thing that's always put me off is that I might wreck it.
A cheepish 1:10 Scale R8 I'm restoring. Probably going to need to fully replace the chassis. It only has binary controls, and practicaly no suspension. It does however, have functional headlights, with low and high beams... I'm planning on painting it orange, like this:
its off topic, bump police have no jurisdiction here. Traxxas stuff I've only heard good things about. And this now i have it infront of me, yeah I can see why, things extremely well built. Though the only other trucks I can directly compare it to arent really in the same class so maybe not fair to draft immediate conclusions there? I own a 1/18th scale helion animus shortcourse truck, it was £80, dirt cheap thing. Housemate has a losi mini 8ight-T 1/14th scale truggy which was about £180. This as a 2nd hand rolling chassis. £170. Breaking risk on this is higher, being based on a nitro truck its hugely overweight for its size. @Svpracer's slash is very close in size and probably weighs about 60% of this. Even the 4wd slashes weigh alot less than this. More weight = more momentum when it hits something at a certain speed. Its why you'll see alot of the serious guys recommending you limit how many aluminium parts you chuck on your truck. I can buy shiny blue aluminium suspension arms for this to replace the plastic ones. Except the plastic ones are actually more impact resistant than the aluminium pieces due to the way the plastic will bend and spring back versus aluminium just bending and staying bent, takes more force to snap plastic than it does bend aluminium. Aluminium parts are also heavier, adding to the momentum the truck has at a set speed, leaving impacts to being sustained at higher forces which are even more likely to cause damage. Just make sure you have space, know whats around you, maybe start off on a 2 cell lipo rather than 3 or 4 (if whatever you get can take 4). Some radio gear actually allows limiting the max throttle too.
I have only broken one part on my truck, and that was immediately fixed with aluminum... After having my roommate get himself a Traxxas, we are both very impressed with them. Good luck with your rolling chassis (@6677), and enjoy your resto project...
I have an scx10 dingo that I am thinking about upgrading a bit, and this Christmas I got a stampede 4x4 vxl that is really fun to drive and amazingly quick considering that my axial only goes like 5mph.
Will be, the SCX is not geared for speed and uses a comparitively weak brushed motor(with good reason, brushless motors don't cope well at low speeds like when crawling). Have fun with it. Scx10s are nice trucks, stampede supposedly nice too
A kinda cool "mod" I did to one of my cheaper cars was put Scotch tape on the rear tires. Boom, free drift tires.
I did the same thing to mine. Unfortunately, my chassis is awful, and the only real "drift" I could do was a 180 when I was going down a hill.
my uncle is big into rc and he upgraded the motor with a teken 45 turn, metal driveshafts, metal gears and a better esc
Those Teken 35, 40 and 45 turn motors seem to be a popular high end choice for an scx10. Needs those metal shafts and gears with the sheer torque those put out.
hows your slash treating you? got to run mine on the beach a little while ago... got the dirt off of it, and some nice air...
I have a hpi trophy 3.5 and a revo 3.3. Both are modified a lot. I still need to gear up my spur gear on the hpi and then it will be just the way I want it. And as for the revo, man I hate that thing and love it at the same time. And yeah ik they are dirty af I don't have time for them right now.
#RevoMasterRace (even if mine is a slayer, but theyre practically the same). Though I do like the trophys too. Considered getting one at one point.
Difficult to tell in that case as the DP8 specs are entirely non existent (which makes me question it as a quality manufacturer). Its taken me a fair bit of googling to find the answer that the DP8 is a 1/10th chassis with a 258mm wheelbase and 198mm width. Body is intended for a 1/10th chassis with a 260mm wheelbase and 205mm width. These are both in the specifications for the body. Wheelbase absolutely must match. Your width needs to be a close match or under (205mm is most common size anyway though), being slightly too thin can be made up for with wheel spacers or offset wheels, being slightly too wide if you are running offset wheels already can be corrected with non offset wheels but otherwise nothing to save you there. Also the bodyposts that the body actually sits on. On a car thats had a body already the posts might have been cut down too short. Its worth getting a second set of bodyposts with a new body, they're usually a few inches long so what you can do is put new body on them and then adjust them for the right height. This is a more minor concern than wheelbase and width.
Ah, I see. Thanks for the comprehensive reply! After doing some further research, a found another chassis that gets better reviews, and is recommended for begenners. I also possibly found a potential body, however, Does the wheelbase measurement have to be exact, or will a 1 mm difference (257mm chassis 258mm body) be fine? Thanks for the help! I'm still very new to this.
