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Thermal Simulation Feedback

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Diamondback, Mar 16, 2016.

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  1. Diamondback

    Diamondback
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    This thread is meant to collect any feedback/concerns/issues regarding the new engine and brake thermals simulation.
    It's quite a complicated and extensive topic, so I figured a dedicated thread helps to collect all the information.

    Brake thermals are a very recent addition (0.6.0.0) so please make sure to be updated.

    Work in progress:
    • Properly tying together the engine thermals and fire simulation, currently only the engine thermals affect fire, not vice-versa
    So please if you have any ideas or feedback, feel free to post them here. :)
     
    #1 Diamondback, Mar 16, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2016
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  2. Josh

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    I know smoke is not part of thermal simulation, but I have a idea for "dynamic" (boost/throttle based) exhaust smoke simulation can it be discussed here?
     
    #2 Josh, Mar 16, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2016
  3. FalloutNode

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    I am no car expert but wouldn't it be like when the piston rings get damaged and the car starts burning oil after a while all the oil would be burned and the engine would die? Or it doesn't work that way.
    --- Post updated ---
    BTW WTF Anti Aliasing and SSAO makes my FPS Better??? Realy why is that a thing?
     
  4. clayton8or

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    Overreving the engine to ridiculous amounts like 10k rpm on a 5k redline cools it...
     
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  5. Microwav3

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    Personally, I think the radiators are too prone to breaking and thus leaking. I've not exactly broken a radiator on my car in real life before so I wouldn't really know just how sensitive they are supposed to be, but even the slightest bump in the road on a car with an average ride height can break the rad.
     
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  6. Drivver

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    Everything I'd like to see improved is posted here:
    http://www.beamng.com/threads/0-5-3...g-thread-read-1-post.22290/page-6#post-334267

    And IMHO engines are heating and cooling too fast. I mean coolant temp. can jump from 90-120 and 120-90 pretty fast this looks kinda unrealistic, it's hard to make modern car going over 90*C if it's maintaned, I drive them like a real cars always under 4k rpms. In real cars temp usually stay at 90*C and if it goes up it's taking it's time.

    Didn't had time to test on 0.5.3.1 - so forgive me if this have been fixed. I'll try to test it out when I came back from work. Give me like ~6 hrs :)
     
  7. Petunia

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    Exactly this. It seems that if you only bottom the car out, the radiator will already be damaged.
     
  8. yyriFIN

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    The coolant temperature depends on car, for example our Opel Astra's -07 1.6 liter normal operation temperature is 100-105 c degrees .
     
  9. Drivver

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    Ofcoure it's true, I know that, it was an simple example - I'm mechanic so I have to know things like this ;) Btw. It's not a chat, peoples want to see contributing posts here, so lets end this conversation right now, please.

    This gives me an Idea. You could make SBR4, 800 series or Sunburst standart working temp higher than 90*C :)

    @randomshortguy That's what I reported too, 3 posts above. That's funny I've reached over 1500*C, and I could reach a lot more, but i had to go to sleep, and I thought it's enough to show that this is wrong and should be fixed.
     
    #9 Drivver, Mar 16, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2016
  10. randomshortguy

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    i think this is a good example of something that needs fixing. Oil coolers essentially make the engine invincible - the block and wall temps can increase infinitely, but since the oil never heats up, the rods never fail and the engine will run (albeit with a blown head gasket and piston rings) at temperatures near the melting point of steel.
     
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  11. amarks240

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    Thermals are something I was afraid of for this game but once again, I'm pleasantly surprised. Most of my gripes are about minor tuning issues you guys know about and will iron out I'm sure. One thing I'd like to see is the additional airflow to the radiator you get by having no hood and bumper and or bumper support help provide additional cooling. It would help give a sense that the air is really going thru the rad and moving the heat away. Thoughts?
     
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  12. Drivver

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    It_looks_like_I_cant_make_long_post_with_underlines_so_it(forum_anti_spam_system?)_deleted_my_over_2hrs_of_writing_one..._With_a_lot_of_evidence_etc._So_just_take_this:


    And_look_at_the_comment_section_under_this_one^_please.
    I'll_buy_new_keyboard_later_today_so_I'll_edit_this_post_to_be_more_contributing.
     
  13. gabester

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    Well, radiators are extremely fragile in reality. I'm able to go airborne at 110 mph in an '88 Pessima without damaging the radiator. What car are you using that damages so easily?
     
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  14. Microwav3

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    Well, I recorded this video here for you:

    I often use the D Series shown in the video, and the radiator breaks as easily as this when put to use on regular maps like Altitude and such (I didn't use that map for the video because I often get framerates that fluctuate from 20-40 and it would make for a bad video. Also, to be fair, the ramp I'm using in the video does have quite a big drop at the end).
    I tried to make this test as fair as possible, so both cars are using high performance radiators and both made the jump at roughly the same speed. As you can see, the Pessima does take more damage and does start leaking a lot more but I feel like the D Series shouldn't really have suffered a broken radiator from the drop off the ramp onto the ground due to the way the suspension is set up and the pretty high ride height, but you guys are the experts and not me. In case you were wondering, if I go as fast as possible from a standstill, the D Series takes roughly the same amount of damage but the Pessima actually takes much less (around the same as the D Series).
     
    #14 Microwav3, Mar 17, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2016
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  15. amarks240

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    You should be able to bottom out and not break it unless it's a bad bottom out. It's more likely to break from a frontal impact as the fins are the weak point, whereas the top and bottom that kind of act as the frame for the delicate fins and tubes are pretty rigid. If you dislodge it from its correct spot it's supposed to sit in, all bets are off.
     
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  16. gabester

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    That seems okay to me (at least the Pessima). You're dropping the entire weight of the car on the radiator support from several feet in the air. The radiator mesh is probably visibly bent at that point.

    EDIT: I can barely read the text but it looks like the leak rate is too high for that kind of impact, though. I'll look into tuning the damage.

    EDIT: I removed some of the bottom radiator support beams that aren't part of the radiator from the deformGroup and it shouldn't be getting damaged as easily bottoming out now. I'll apply the same to the other cars.
     
    #16 gabester, Mar 17, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2016
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  17. Microwav3

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    The Pessima ends up with a leak rate of 0.275, and the D Series a leak rate of 0.009, if that's what you meant.
    Anyway, I'll post here again if I find anything worth looking into.
     
  18. amarks240

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    It's convenient that the person who models these cars has a solid working knowledge of how they actually work. Keep up the attention to detail.
     
    #18 amarks240, Mar 17, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 17, 2016
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  19. randomshortguy

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    The Bolide 390GTR + Notte + Scuderia will overheat very quickly just driving flat-out. Load up plain grid, and just floor it; before you reach top speed, it's lost all its coolant and blown the head gasket and piston rings.
     
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  20. gabester

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    Hmm, that's not supposed to happen :D I'll look into it, thanks.
     
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