Thermal Simulation Feedback

I've noticed that the fire does not do enough damage on a car

It could heat the engine(cylinder wall, block...), the radiator(coolant), and, if possible , melt the plastic(cylinder head cover, the radtube, blow up the fuel tank, propaging fire to other cars

(look at 3:41)


and not just deflate the tires

 

Well, there have been some other complaints against this too. Check out the thread, "more advanced Fire behavior". This will have a discussion about this.

 

sorry, I haven't seen

Yes, but you must change the car's files. Go to C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\SteamApps\common\BeamNG.drive\content\vehicles and choose your car. When it's done, go to the engine (for example : hatch_engine.jbeam) and go to

change "thermalsEnabled":true to "thermalsEnabled":false.

 

I think it would be pretty neat for each map to have it's own temperature that effects overheating. Like Utah is a desert map and is really hot, but Mt. Shell or another winter map would be cold and harder to overheat the vehicle. Possibly even different temperatures for day/night. I'm still loving the thermal simulation, the game feels so much more realistic with it. Also, I don't think that the radiator breaks too easy.

 

Just a minor bug;

I was driving around in my stripped SBR4, which had its radiator removed. I went over some bumps, and it said in the top left; 'radiator damaged,' and it started spewing out smoke. IMO, the car should have been smoking BEFORE I damaged the rad, as the temps were super high.

Despite this, the thermal simulation is awesome, keep up the good work

 

I also believe the radiators get damaged too easily. What's the point of having the shock bumper on the moonhawk if it wrecks the radiator at a 5mph hit? Also, the AC intercooler units or whatever it is that sits in front of the radiator should act as a protectant to the radiator... Core supports generally give pretty easy, so I think that the radiator should be able to hang just a little longer when there's virtually no damage to the car.

Anyways, I like where it's headed. WOuld be nice if some of the banger/derby versions you guys put up, for example: the Terrible and the Awful, had radi-barrels in them. Also, it doesn't seem that the thermostat pulls in cold water, but rather just puts water in that's the same temp as the engine. Depending on how long the vehicle's been running, the radiator should pull in cold water at first that will initially bring the water temp in the engine down below whatever degree thermostat you have in there. Explained below

a 180F thermostat (very common in many stock vehicles) will open once the temp reaches 180F. If it is the first time since the engine has been running from cold that it opens, the radiator should initially pull in cooler water, (probably around 120-140F) and the temp gauge reflects this on some vehicles, though it's more noticeable with vehicles that have larger radiators. I like that you can buy the high performance radiators, does this include a race-type thermostat? 160F?

One thing I forgot to mention! I would like fuel cell options available for all vehicles. I hate when mine or an AI's trunk gets hit just right and all of a sudden their car is on fire... Really takes the fun out of stuff for me when I'm driving around a flaming car. Not into the whole "twisted metal" thing.

 

thermal system is nice, but sometimes the engine dies too early, no way to restart unless you have the More Features Mod, but even at that the vehicles wont restart and actually run for a bit longer, that and radiators and things can get damaged easier but this update works better about that than last ive noticed, i also would suggest a off button for the devs to make, same with fire it needs an off button too most of the time the car is drivable if hit in the rear and the fire ruins it extingish doesnt keep it out for a bit longer it just reignites in a split second

 

@Mopower77
Well radiators are very fragile IRL, And 10MPH crash can cause damage to it - I know it from expirience I'm mechanic, IMO right now it's pretty solid and could stay like this, I can drive untill fuel ends on dirt Utah roads without any damage in pesima rally, covet rally, miramar, moonhawk and sunburst rally - tested! Didn't tryed another cars yet, but I bet they handle radiator damage similar way. But I have to agree with fire simulation, pretty light hit on T-series fuel tank and it burn, while it don't work this way IRL because it's diesel and even petrol don't stay in flames that easy. Hit Moonhawks's trunk and you'll expirience Ford Pinto effect It almost doesn't happen to me because I do my best to not crash in BeamNG, but if I'm going to crash I try to minimalize damage. It happens just a bit too often compared to real life - it happen way more on racetracks with race cars so I actually accept it on race cars, but very loud harashing sound (way louder than anything elese) and no real effect other than bursting tires makes me feel like this feature still isn't ready for public release. For derbys and hard offroad I sugested other radiator placement like on hood, roof or in trunk. About thermostat and cold coolant it's pretty minor thing IMO.

@Nate2826
You are probbably referring to oil starvation, which works great, After damaging radiator it takes a long time until you'll overheat engine. For example today I damaged radiator at the beggining of Utah Rally Scenario, which takes about 6 minutes, and still was able to complete it while going pedal to the metal all the time, Yeah it can be damaged more, but mine was damaged by 10MPH hit, so leak rate was reasonable enough that I had chance to complete my rally. But if you hit harder then oil pan, block, header (IRL) can be damaged and you lose oil very fast so engine will die very soon or you'll have massive coolant leak and engine will overheat very fast too. I'm very happy with the way it works now, seems realistic and I really like it

THIS is one of the reasons I'd take BeamNG over any race/rally/drive simulator, just one mistake and you could be out of competition, without "magic" rewind, without compromisses, you can't bounce of the barrier/AI cars/trees at high speed to made better time, getting in to better position (in future racing), or even completing race after it beacause you can destroy that radiator, got oil starvation, switch wheel alignment, burst tires, change vechicle geometry, damage suspension... I can dive in to the game and feel just like in real life I have to carry a lot about my vechicle unlike any other games, yeah I can press "R" and start again but I prefer to race like I do in real life, complete everytime I try, it's way more rewarding than going flatout restarting like 50 times to finish once.

haha and that's how my firends play, I try once, finish with not bad time, then they try to beat me, reseting like 30 times each one of them before they finish usually with worser time

 

@Drivver Yeah, I mean, that surely can happen, but in those old iron cars, they are protected pretty well, especially since the shocks on the bumper absorb much of the impact. A direct hit to the radiator at 5-10 mph would most likely cause damage, yes, but if you hit bumper to bumper, or bumper to tire/rear quarter, it's not likely to really damage the radiator unless something is poking out, or you hit hard enough that your bumper hits it, or something clears your front bumper.

 

You probably mean steel cars, and it may looks like they are protected well, but those cars are usually very heavy, and aren't designed as well as modern cars. Nowadays car's bumpers can handle way more beating, and protect more, while they look weak, it's really hard to crack bumpers with baseball bat, while this "old solid" ones doesn't do a lot of resistance to it - don't ask how do I know it (hint: I had a lot of fun on scrapyard).
Here you have example

well it may be too drastic example, but shows how old solid looking cars were easy to damage/destroy. It may be still just a bit too easy to damage radiators, but I didn't experienced this problem yet, it always happens with reasonable hit for me.

 

lol, 50's and 60's chevies are junk in the front ends anyways, also that hit was at much more than 10 mph.

70's caddy versus 67 imperial, skip to 4:30.


Yes, the cars are "safer" nowadays, however, I disagree with cars being made much stronger... I mean, that 09 impala or malibu or whatever versus this here 67 Imperial, I think you'd see the Imp does much better than that old chev.

 

Im not sure, but I think that having engine working on very high RPM 5k+ should overheat engine pretty fast, but right now engines are overheating only during burning tyres.

Wow, that my first post since I bought game ^^. Hi all.

 

@Mopower77 You didn't understood me, I just showed you that this massive, bully looking cars just looks safe and stiff, while modern are way better at taking energy safely and are actually stiffer overall, nothing can cross firewall at IIHS / EURONCAP crashtests, crumple zones are made for something, well you can build stiff car, but hitting a wall in it would lead straight to death, you know the forces of stoping from 60km/h(~38MPH) to 0 in less than 0.2sec, you don't have to hit anything, just acceleration you'll experience will be deadly. You know that exactly this model is banned in most derbies, because this is the only one model which is that stiff and perform too well in this competitions compared to other cars. Another cars would crumple a lot more, even this old ones. (especially not derby cars with a lot of welded steel inside to reinforce whole body) That was pretty low speed example anyway, and guy in "stronger" car, bounced as hell, If cars would be that stiff, there would be way more deaths. Once again your example is the only car that has ever been that stiff and durable and I can bet it was more deadly than others cars from it's era too.

@axelxan That really depend of what you are doing, and excluding covet beater, cars are actually brand new while spawning so their cooling system is in perfect condition. If you are driving at those RPMs even at 2-3 gear this should make enough air flow through radiator to cool down engine.

 

Like I said, the cars are safer nowadays, but not necessarily stronger. And that was a stock build class, that thing hasn't been reinforced that much, he didn't even stuff the bumper on that Imperial. Can't you tell that this is a stock class? Also, you want to see hard cars? I can pull up track shotting trucks going 20-30 mph that bounce off each other and don't even bend as much as that Imperial did. But those cars are actually built up. That Imperial is S-T-O-C-K. And yes, you literally said the cars were "STRONGER" but they are NOT. Lol, Safer, yes, but not stronger. As I said before, they picked about the worst, least durable car from that era and ran it against a modern one.

 

I hate it when people bring out this video.
It is unfair to old cars. It is heavily debated on whether or not they removed the engine from the Bel Air in this video, and the Bel Air was drastically different from simlilar cars of the era in a bad way.

Not having the engine in the car would make it unpredictably weaker than it could have been.

The Bel AIr in this video had an 'X' Frame, which is not representative of other cars of the era, and was just an unsafe design.

 

Just like title says, wow. I know, I wasn't referring to THIS car, just overall derby cars. Run in to modern car, but not very good car too. If that imperial would hit concrete pole, rock or wall instead of "soft" vechicle it would look way different. And you've choosen the strongest one you can find, so? Yes modern cars are stronger and safer, cruple zone is another story, but nothing can go through the fire wall, while in old "Strong" cars it was moving with bumper towards you. I saw a crash on classic cars party, restored 70' american muscle looked like new brand new but ~40km/h in to a lightpole, and yeah it wasn't looking bad untill you looked at frame, and driver, blood inside broken ribs and moved dashboard like 10-15 cm inside with steering column almost stuck in his chest. My best friend own a scrap yard, If something interesting arrives I have a phone call from him immediately, he once had mustang and charger/challanger (this cheaper one I'm not sure which one it was) unregistered without right to register, without any pinkslips etc. in very bad conditions to scrap, so instead immediately scraping them we repaired them to "driveable" state, took us 2 days and we crashed them. If he still have his old phone I can send you photos. And this cars folded like a paper, sure they were in bad condition, lots of rust everywhere etc, but we crash lots of 80' 90' 00' and even some modern cars too so we can compare it. I've driven in events called wreckrace and the only real advantage of this cars are their mass, in terms of crashing old volvos perform better, in safety and survialability.

It had original I6 engine inside, don't spread that myth.

Ofc it's not fair, I have to agree not well designed car, but it's not fair to compare Mopower77 example against other cars too. So 1:1 becouse that impala is just stiff and strong, and is even banned in most derby events, because it's too hard.

Not that modern cars have to crumple that much for safety, Polish inventor, invented special bumpers that would allow to crash with 30km/h without scratch on other car parts, and one manufacturer (chevrolett?) offered him that they'll buy license for this patent but under one condition, it will never be used. He refused, and now it's used in private yachts to prevent from damaging them while they are at port in stormy weather.

 

How about this:
after the radiator is damaged, make the engine temperature stay at safe-ish temperatures, when the car is moving faster than xx km/h. If the car slows down, the temperature will increase due to reduced airflow. Also, if the radiator is broken, the only way to reduce the heat would be going underwater (like it does now).