The car runs! The carburetor is tuned and adjusted (except for the choke) thanks to my Dixco Engine Performance Analyzer. Now I need to replace some line for the transmission fluid that’s leaking right onto the exhaust, causing lots of smoke. I need a new thermostat, headlight clip/adjuster, leaf springs, and an air filter. As well as a valve cover gasket! I also “detailed” the underfloor compartment and vacuumed the carpeting. Yes, this is a photo of mine.
Well, no. The block is fine (as far as I can tell), but the head gasket still needs to be replaced. It leaks a lot , and it’s nearly blown, since the Eagle has overheated a bit too much. The current one is also cork, which sucks, because if it’s adjusted a tiny bit too tight, it cracks and won’t work.I’m looking for a new rubber one now. While I was adjusting the carburetor, it flooded while the engine was running and fuel started running out of the manifold, dripping onto the exhaust and almost starting a fire.
I see. I'd run a hose through the engine cooling passages through the water pump and through the radiator. The glycol in coolant builds up and prob caused/causes the cooling issue
Thats also a major possibility, but I'd still give the cooling system a deep clean. 30+ years of glycol buildup can reek havoc on controlling engine temperature
What? Fuel leaking out of the valve cover? And what's cork; The rocker cover or the head gasket? If the engine is flooding after running for a while that would indicate a sunk float or stuck needle, and no matter how bad it floods fuel wont come pouring out the rocker cover gasket unless the entire combustion chamber is filled with petrol and it gets past valve stem seals, but then anyways you would have a hydrolocked engine Unless your saying fuel is leaking out of the manifold gasket. That would make more sense Dont leave your headgasket too long because whilst its not doing its job anymore it may very much potentially be badly contaminating your oil, and in some extremely unlucky cases can let coolant fill a combustion chamber over time, causing hydrolock, or bending things that shouldn't be bent A rubber valve cover gasket is a good purchase if you have a solid lifter engine, and need to set the valve lash every now and then. Otherwise the cork will be fine, you could might maybe possibly save a buck or three by cutting your own gasket Also sorry if i came off a bit harsh in comment about that Amby, its just i see that sort of stuff on American iron all the time here in this country and the people that tend to own them aren't usually in the brightest demographic. Bad experiences is what made me comment the way i did is what im trying to say --- Post updated --- Carpeted the boot
been thoroughly confused by the french again 106 stopped running and wouldnt restart the other night cranked and ran like nothing happened yesterday. got a new dogbone mount for the skoda so hopefully no more rattling on shutoff
I meant manifold, yeah. Duh. I was thinking about the headgasket when I typed that message, and had a brain fart. Yeah, I meant manifold. The only cork gaskets I've come across have been leaking, but I guess I could put a cork one in. Dang, I make myself sound so dumb on here.
I would like to disagree with any sort of gasket being used for valley wall gaskets. On a V-style engine where the intake is what seals the valley walls, the gaskets going from manifold to head can push the manifold up, depending on thickness. I've learned (from Junkyard Digs) that having a fat bead of sealer works much better, because it doesn't matter if there's a large gap with the manifold gaskets separating the manifold from the china walls, the RTV will seal that up and fill the gap. Take this with a grain of salt, as I don't have any personal experience with this technique, but the idea make perfect sense for me
Okay, ignoring how stupid I sounded in the posts above this one, more car stuff! I’m currently replacing the thermostat (and associated gasket, which was very rotten). Once I get the engine cleaned off enough to read it, I will adjust the timing, and finally, charge the air conditioning. Stay tuned! Shown below: examples of engine cleanliness
I let my car sit and rot without brakes today I read the manual and mine was supposed to come with a keyfob. I only got the Valet key, not even the normal key. I have to open my trunk from the inside. Fun fact, sometimes your dad's cousin gives you free speakers.
Still way too close for comfort, or at least it looks like it --- Post updated --- Please. Move it, thats just bloody dangerous it being that close to something that gets to 600 degrees, metal or not
Its not difficult to reroute the fuel line away from both manifolds, by having a 90 degree elbow fitting on the needle and seat, you could position it so that the fuel line has to come down to the carb (and also up and over the valve cover), therefore every nearly removing the lines running near the manifolds So what is that directly beneath the filter? intake or exhaust Yes the carburettor is sat atop both manifolds, however a carburettor i would consider much safer at holding fuel (maybe not so much in terms of vaporizing) than a thin piece of sheet metal perched directly above an exhaust runner
Actually, my great-uncle's '82 wagon burned down, and my dad's cousin's '85 sedan did, too. Both were unoccupied at the time. I've only heard of one other instance of an Eagle starting on fire, though.
