need I point out that actually some ff's do actually have equal length halfshafts which eliminates torque steer and that mechanically they will oversteer. want to rotate an ff: -throttle liftoff -Scandinavian flick -left foot braking it's easy to find races where the ff beat fr, mini coopers used to hammer commodores on the Aussie rally scene. Before awd started to appear reliably in cheap vehicles, ff's dominated the rally scene, fr used to dominate the mr too. And need I remind people this I nothing to do with surface raced on as most rally is tarmac ff will oversteer, it only understeers in the hands of unskilled drivers. most factory fr's now have suspension alignment configured for understeer too
As mumboking correctly pointed out it's a Lancia Ypsilon. Although its general shape resembles that of a Fiat 500, powerplant aside it actually has pretty much nothing in common with it. It's significantly bigger and shares its underpinnings with 2nd gen. Fiat Punto rather than 500 (which in essence is based on a shortened Fiat Panda floorpan). I was on a lookout for a daily commuter but I've never considered this model as a car that suits my needs or taste, quite the contrary, I found it too girly, too cutesy. This particular example, however, which turned out to be one of only 500 made as a part of limited 'Versus' edition, hit me like a lightning. It caught my eye with its distinctive special interior and exterior finish as well as quite generous equipment. And that was it really, I got bewitched and we went home together .
Of course my previous diss of FF was "all other things equal". There are some specific FFs that will beat some specific FRs on some surfaces. Mini against Holden Commodore on a typical rally stage? The Mini stands a good chance, especially if the engine's been hopped up. A Miata or an 86/88 against a Civic Si on a typical mountain road or racetrack? My money's going on the FR unless it's a... what was the coupe version of the EK? Civic Si on a horsepower-dominant track. Not to mention, you still have to contend with extremely poor distribution of weight and tire load. Scandanavian Flick could potentially be a workaround, but the car will still tend toward on-power push. As for the other two, they both involve intentionally reducing or acting against the car's acceleration to induce mild trailing-throttle oversteer, whereas a properly set-up FR or MR will rotate as a result of drive force being applied to the wheels (RR not so much, but the basic mechanism is still there). That's the difference - with an FR or MR, you exploit strengths, with an FF, you mitigate weaknesses.
Comparing a Mini and a Commodore is not comparing apples to apples, which is not comparing FF against FR, but a nimble citycar against a landyacht. A Commodore against say, a Taurus would be a fair comparison. edit: forgot to post what I actually wanted to, lmao. MX5 radiator blew on the freeway, had to limp it home with the heater on full blast. Was about 35°c, or 95°f at 100% humidity today (Y).
minus that mini v commy was indeed a common circumstance. Mini versus anything the mini tended to win. In general in the rally scene ff always wins, not as many fr victories
I made a video of my car. I also put some vent visors, chrome valve caps and a new license plate surround on it.
Well, I did a thing, This should be coming home with me next week or so. 86 C10, has an 81 .30 over 350, 700R4, and a 10 bolt rear with 2.73 gears, which, while slow off the line, means this truck will do 90 on the highway all day, and get 18 MPG doing it. It does need some attention, it has factory dual exhaust, but the drivers side tail pipe has dropped off, It does need a new dash pad and gauge bezel, But I already have new ones for it, the seat is ruined, but I have a tan bench from a Suburban that can go in it, the drivers side vent window is taped in, I need to find a new one for it, it needs some of its oringinal Silverado trim replaced on the drivers side door, The radio is gone, but I've never bought a vehicle with a working radio in my life, so nothing new there, And I already have one to go in it. It also need one of the fuel tank straps on the passenger side tank replaced, but, both tanks do work. 20 gallons on each side. This truck is bringing back alot of memories from when I real little, just the interior alone, I remember sitting on the floor of one of these older Silverado/Scottsdale trim Chevys and playing with the little door pockets and the pull handles on the doors.
Why shouldn't it be? Do you know how hard it'd be to find a car in the north midwestern states if every single vehicle with rotted out fenders was deemed illegal for the road? As long as the frame is fine it's not too big of a deal. Even then, it takes a surprising amount of rust to bring a frame to the point where it can't handle the stress of normal driving.
Funny you say that, because the shape of the body was one of the selling points, those four spots on the bed are worst part of it, other then that, there isn't a single dent in the body, the cab is perfect, all the rust on it is only surface rust, not through. Also, I'm going to go out on a limb and say you live in place where A; it doesn't snow, B; they don't use salt on the roads, or C; you write the car off after some hail damage.
I am from central europe, it snows fairly every year and we use tonna cheap and my tailgate had to be replaced because there was a small hole you could put your pinkie through where the tailgate meets the rubber, it cracked a bit and water stayed, was not road legal without it. It still has ~140k km on the clock and runs strong, engine is perfect and runs awesome, never been in a collision harder than cracking the headlights and fascia, but it will go get scrapped after the tech papers run out in a year and a half because there is rust that it can't be legal with. You don't see it from the outside, well, you do, but its just a little surface rust spots, no big deal. I didn't see it from the below, but i was told that it would be too expensive to hack back together, that its not worth the price of the car. When it will be due to take off the road i will take all the good stuff off it (top trim, has some nifty features) and put it into the next car I'll be getting, probably the same one because they are epic cars. If you, in the americas say you have strict vehicle laws like I sometimes hear, i really don't know anymore.
Sorry, I honestly though you were just being an ass, that's ridiculous. Here, it depends on what State your talking about, and sometimes even what county. Here, in Jersey county, there are no inspections, the only reason a vehicle can be declared un-roadworthy here are if it has a vision -obstructing crack in the windshield, no brake lights, or the plates are expired. However, I know two counties south of here, they have emissions testing, you can't put plates on a vehicle until it passes the test, or, its over 20 years old, then it's exempt. However again, across the state line in Missouri, they don't have emissions testing, but they do have safety inspections, I know my brothers truck failed an inspection because the front end was too far out of alignment, and the shocks were too old. As far as rust goes, I think they only way it can fail is if it is so bad, there is a real risk of large pieces of it falling off, or the vehicle breaking in two.
The shop i had my converters put on at didn't want to pass my 06 vic because the sway bar link was in "severe condition". I checked it in my tech school shop and it looked fine. My instructor, who was a ford master tech for 20 years prior to teaching said it was on the way out, but still had life left in it. luckily i had already had the car inspected before getting then converters put on, and i just had to have it reinspected there. They didn't say a single thing about the sway bar link.
Well my mother's 04 TrailerBlazer's front swaybar isn't attached to anything, on either side, broken. And she refuses to let me fix it because the tells me it isn't a big deal, Even though any time I drive the thing I can't go around any bend faster than 30, just because of how bad it leans over.
At tech we have a 94 s10 with a cammed 350 out of a 1985 chevy that has cut springs all around, no swaybars and it is the absolute worst and best thing to drive. it also has 355s in the back with skinnies up front so that doesn't help handling either.
So much power, so little space to use it. Are there any places left in your area (freeways aside) where you can freely push it through the gears up to - ida know - 40-50 mph above the speed limit without being instantly sentenced to the chair?
Removed the wheel caps, looks much nicer now (my opinion) and realised they are the same wheels as @BBQ 's Audi had.
